thebronze
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Posts posted by thebronze
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My 02 has the exact same problem. Every summer when its hot, it will die at stop lights no matter how high the idle is set. This has been happening for 2 years and i'm very close to selling the damn thing. No amount of TPS or TB synching will fix it. Its been in and out of the shop several times.
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I had hopes of loading a new fuel map in but i'm once again dealing with a sloppy idle. It will tick over just fine around 11-1200 and then randomly drop down to 7-900 and the charge light comes on. Usually at a stop light!! Someone had advised to check the fuel trim or idle trim with Guzzi Diag. I have found the CO Trimm is set to 13. I lowered it to 10 and the idle was worse so I manually raised it and the problem still exists. Can anyone clarify what the CO Trimm does and what should it be set at? I have done the Micha tune several times. The TB's are synched. The TPS was set with an exhaust sniffer.
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Can anyone help me out here? I was able to connect and run Guzzi Diagnostics. My CO trim was 13. I think the next step was to download the map but the IAW15 ecu reader has an error when I try to save it. It says cant open the file.
2002 Lemans V11
ECU is IAW15m.c5
Lean in the midrange and doesnt want to idle steadily at stop lights. I'd be happy to write up a doc for those of us in the states.
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Carbtune is really nice. I borrowed one from a friend and synched it up around 2k. The bike is a little better but still has a slight hiccup around 3-4k. I reset the TPS and everything but the idle trim has been verified. I'm waiting on a USB cable to arrive. Thanks for all the help folks.
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Does anyone in the states know where you can buy a carb synch tool? I like the motion pro w 4 sticks. Most of the modern bike shops look at me funny when I ask for tools. Asking for something that bucks the disposable economy doesnt register.
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Docc, I went through all that last year. I think I need to synch the TB's after adjusting the valve lash. I might dial it back to 1/2 turn out and try an easy fix. I havent bought a carb synch tool just yet.
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Not sure how, but 1 turn out on the air screws made the idle stumble even worse.
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Docc, its definitely worth a try. I agree, need to get the idle zero'd. I'll try to find the usb cable and use the new software. I dont have much time. I'm trying to rebuilt my Moto Morini 350 right now and get the Motobi 250 dialed in. I think there are 2 other bikes that need work as well.
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Good ole Docc, your always around. Ok, lets see, stock airbox and filter are back on and it runs 100x better than pods. Brand new plugs gapped at .7mm. Air screws are 3/4 turn out from fully in. Seems like the more I open the air screws the more lean it gets in the mid range. Tonights ride was the best its ever been. It didnt really miss between 3-4k and I tried to make it. Its just clumsy at stop signs. Its time for the yearly throttle body synch up and maybe check the TPS to see if it wandered.
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I found the right side exhaust to be a little snug. The manual must be joking with the listed spec. Its better now but still trips a little at stops. Its almost like a car when the ac compressor clicks on or off. I might try the raceco spec next.
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Hi Toby,
I don't think the stock map is causing your problems. I've had the stop sign stalling issue in the past and fixed it by by doing the basic V11 tuneup. It sounds like you had a tuneup except you didn't mention a valve lash check. When they get too tight and the bike gets hot it can lead to erratic idle and stalling after pushing the bike hard. The manual says .004" intake/.006 exhaust but most here use the .006" intake/ .008 exhaust. If you have to adjust them you will likely need to rebalance the throttle bodies.
Tom, I adjusted those last year but its probably time to check again. They might be too tight. PO had them set 10-12 thou or so.... I found some ugly spark plugs while I was in there. I dont think the gap was set. It was about 1mm. Proly straight out of the box. I put new plugs in at .7mm per the manual. I will check the valve lash tonight.
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Time for my annual post dogging the Guzzi fuel system! Ok this year I have the stock air box back on and it ran decent most of the winter. Now its getting hot outside and after 10 minutes the bike is fully warm, it starts missing a little between 3-4k rpm. I think we are lean again. When I had the air pods in place the surging in this range was horrible and unsafe at times. It was diagnosed by a lean condition caused by the air pods. Now its much better with the airbox, just a little miss. The real problem is when i'm pulling up to a stop light or stop sign. The rpm will drop down to 5-600 rpm and try to kill the motor. If I blip the throttle a bit it recovers and will usually idle around 1400. It has died on me a few times in this situation but always starts back up. I have the idle set to 1400, a little high but i'm trying to keep it from dying.. TPS is set, carbs are synched, had my mechanic do an 02 analysis during tune up. I'm still thinking the stock fuel map is to blame and i'm trying to reach Todd at Guzzitech for a reflash. But i'm wondering if these two items might factor in to my problems at stops signs/lights.
1. Air bleed screws, i'm at 3/4 a turn out. Any further out and it gets leaner. What would running them in do to the idle speed?
2. Throttle cable is loose at the intake assembly loop. The only way I can see to tighten is at the twist grip and the cable adjuster is all the way out. Maybe the cable is stretched and in need of replacement...
Love to hear any thoughts, ideas, or curses.
Thanks,
Toby
2002 vll lemans
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Steve, we don't have a website but we have a facebook event page. If you do FB search events for Glen Rose Rally 2013. I'll send you a pm about it. I'd love to see that Velo up close. Theres usually a nice one at Luchenbach and the other meet ups but I don't get to hear them or see them in action. Thats what this rally is all about.
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Whoa - that is some Texas-green-funk there!
th'Bronze: did you just spray it with contact cleaner or what?
(BTW, when you're in that close, carefully inspect the two yellow wires leaving the stator. One is prone to breaking and very hard to see.)
hahahha, I pulled it all off since I had to get behind the cover. Put it in the parts washer and it cleaned up nice. The lead wires looked really good.
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Steve, you should come down to Glen Rose for our spring bike rally 3/16/13. Most of us will be riding thumpers, lots of Benelli's, Motobis, and maybe a couple ducati's to combat the Yamaha RD and Suzuki gt crowd. Anyone in the DFW area is welcome on any bike but we will be going a lot slower than you on your v11.
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This is fixed and it was my fault. When I replaced the timing cover gasket I left the side stand sensor wire hanging loose and it was wedged behind the exhaust pipe. The plastic melted and shorted the current to ground. Pretty easy fix once I knew where to look. Do I really need that sensor?
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Hi Roy, no I hadnt touched anything on the bike in the past two months. I put the airbox back on last November and had a couple nice rides to test it out. The bike sat for the past 2 or 3 months with only an occasional bat charge and a brief warm up of the motor to knock the dust off. Thats why I thought it was the battery but last night it shows 12.6.
The fuse blows about 2 to 8 seconds after I turn the key on. The lights come on and then it pops.
I'll try your suggestions later tonight.
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I do not see how a battery issue would blow A fuse without the motor running. If you hooked up the battery backwards it might blow some fuses but I would not think it would be just the one.
You almost certainly have a short.
I am not a fan of applying power to find the short (ala jumping the fuse out with a light bulb) but to each their own. I use a digital volt meter to find where you have a path to ground where one should not exist. Disconnect the power and ground(s) for the wiring harness and then use the meter to see where you still have a path to ground. Or jump the fuse out and follow the smoke.....
I agree with ya, but I'm not really an electric wiz. I have a multimeter but I dont know how to test for a path to ground. Is it as easy as turning the dial to resistance and prodding around?
I was basing my guesstimates on KiwiRoy's post but now I cant find the thread "..Testing the theory that a bad contact in the solenoid will cause the 15
Amp fuse to blow resulted in it blowing in less than 1/2 a second." He created a very helpful pdfs "Starter Circuit" and "Relay Base Repair" -
My V11 Sport stops charging when the power wire from the regulator is connected to the battery. A few months ago it fried the 30 amp fuse ( by baking 17+ volts). I replaced the regulator and it made a steady 14.3 but now stops charging when the regulator output is connected to the battery. If the regulator output wire is not connected it makes a steady 14.3. Regulator checks out good when tested to manufacturer's instructions. Tried grounding the regulator to the negative battery post but doesn't help.
Do what KiwyRoy suggests plus removing the green funk out of your stator
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Well we had a rat chew up our icemaker line to the fridge and flood our house so it would figure. Maybe he needed some wire for his christmas lights. I figured all the snakes we have take care of the rodents but they are proly on holiday. I think they are all unionized snakes.
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Steve, if its not too late i'd advise you to leave the stock airbox on and do not go with K&N's. My bike came with K&N's and they were nothing but trouble. I tried resetting the tps, advancing the tps, relocating the air sensor and nothing made it work right. If you go K&N you will have problems with the stock ECU fuel map. I think Todd at Guzzitech quoted me $200 or 250 for a reflash but it didnt sound like an exact science so I put the airbox back on the bike ran like a top. Until last night when it died on the side of the road that is
. I'm also in Dallas, well up near Denton if you want to talk guzzi. If you want to tinker with it run an extra ground wire for the rectifier and look into a maxi fuse for the charging system. Mine had troubles with the 35amp fuse melting until I put an extra ground wire in and cleaned up the rotor and stator. The stator gets oxidized really bad, the cover isnt quite air tight. -
2001 vll lemans. Ive never seen a rodent chew wires in Texas. Isnt there anything in the pantry for them overseas? I have removed a mummified mouse from a benelli 350 thumper case.
I'm guessing the battery since the bike has sat for a few months but I may have bumped the ig switch wires when I put the airbox back on the bike.
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Not sure, but i'm blowing the fuse just turning the ignition on. It doesnt last long enough to hit the starter. I need to go rent a trailer and bring the bike home and look around.
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Thought i'd take a spin tonight and made it about a mile down the road. Slowing down for a stop sign all of a sudden the lights and motor cut out on me. I coasted into a parking lot and tried switching it on and off but nothing. Peeped in the fuse box and the 15a was blown. I believe its the ignition switch fuse. Walked to the autozone and bought a pack. New 15a got me half way home before it died again. Threw another fuse in turned on the ignition key, lights and gauges came on for about 5 seconds and then the fuse blew again. I went through 5 fuses like this. I never even got to the starter button. Any ideas whats wrong? I had to leave the bike at a neighbors house. I had a fresh charge on the battery but the bike has been sitting all winter in the garage. I have noticed the past few days of starting that the starter motor seems a little slower than normal. It might even have a slight pause before it turns. Guess i'll start with cleaning the solenoid and battery connections.
Thanks
Toby
Playing around with Guzzi Diag and CO Trimm
in Technical Topics
Posted
Admins, is there any interest in a step by step using Guzzi Diag? Paul's thread is great for general info but its missing the details.