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Rhino1

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Posts posted by Rhino1

  1.  

     

    Doesn't the crossover provide more torque at low rpm ?

    No.

     

    Agreed; a nefarious factory "solution" for complaints of "flat spots" and such. If you want your V11 to have a tractable power band, practice the complete tune-up, ride, repeat. Lovely!

     

     

    I agree.  Besides, it just seems to make for more unnecessary complexity/issues to address a problem that may or may not exist on this big, fat V-Twin... 

     

    I like the idea of using the existing crossover to patch, and then maybe ceramic coat...   

  2. Have you tried taking the bike to an exhaust fabricator? They might be able to work up something for you to replace or eliminate the front crossover.

     

    Yup, I might have to do that.  Any good muffler shop worth its salt should be able to weld-up the stainless headers--the only issue I would have is big, ugly welds hanging out there for everyone to see :)

  3. On the levers, I prefer the ASV to the CRG/Pazzo-knock-offs, but any of these will work.   I don't remember off the top of my head the exact models but our master cylinders (Bremob, Gold-Line Brembo non-radial) are common among Ducati/Aprilia ranks....

     

    Falco Lion, would be very nice if you shared this non-proprietary information with us and saved us a bit of searching... ;)

  4. I have an '03  LeMans and I'm looking for a set of headers without the cross pipe (below the oil cooler)... (mine has rattled loose...).  Please email with price.  Thanks!


     


     


  5. So, I just noticed that the front crossover on my LeMans is rattling...  It's loose enough that it clangs against the cover...  Is welding an option?  Does it make sense to just replace the headers with an "older" set without the front crossover?  

     

    Argh!   I'm trying to convince myself that I don't NEED a newer Guzzi (I love my Rosso Corsa, but there is a newer version that is appealing...).  \

     

    Anyone out there have a set of headers for sale?  :)

     

     

  6. At some point, the instrument warning panel changed adding turn indicators for left and right and deleting the battery warning. I thought it was at the switch from Veglia to ITI, but if you guys have an '03 and an '04 that differ, the change occurred independently from the instrument change, perhaps only for 2004. :huh2:

     

    Remember when you bleed the rear brake to remove the caliper and rotate the bleeder to the top side. Also, with the calipers off you can work the pistons in and out while cleaning with brake cleaner until all the pistons move equally, especially on the front!

    My 03 has independent lights for the blinkers--and ITI instruments.

     

    Nice job on the lights!!

  7. Check the resistance of all the switches etc, they should read low and be consistent every time they are operated, a variation in resistance points to dirty contacts (hard grease holding them apart or melted plastic letting the contact move back out of reach) I doubt it's a broken wire at the switch but give those a wriggle just in case.

     

    pdf.gif  Test Point Layout.pdf   Pull all the relays and fuses out first. (I'm fairly certain all the spine frames are similar)

     

    I have found the wiring around the ECU is very robust, it's usually something before there. The petcock fuse (TP-d) is like a bottleneck, it

    will drop off if any of the switches are bad bumping the ECU and make the little light flicker.

    I know it's high tech but it's not bad to have a permanent light under the seat at that point, always available if needed.

    Don't try to look under the seat while riding though, it'll give you a crick in the neck  :oldgit:

    Roy, you mention "flicker" if before the fuse, and "misbehaves" if its after.  Do you mean while idling or running?  And can you descrbie "misbehave (only as it pertains to this issue... lol)?

     

    My .02 is still on the PC--I had a similar issue on a TL1000R and removing the PCII fixed it.  I have a hiccup now, right at 3k, but I don't even notice it much anymore.  I might take my own advice at some point and disconnect the PCIII...  It seems redundant to have a PCIII AND a Kit ECU...

  8. My Angel GTs are performing well, but for some reason the rear is wearing down faster than the front. :huh2:

     

    A Cycle Gear catalog showed up today with a sale on Bridgestone BT-016 Pro: a 120/70ZR-17 paired with a 180/55ZR-17. $180 for both tires (after $40 rebate available only during March).

     

    These are described as a sport tire that borders on sport-touring. So probably a little stickier (and faster wearing) than the Angels.

     

    Has anybody run these on a V11?

    Scud, the BT016's were what came stock on my 06 GSXR1000. They were great on that bike on the street--offered great traction and longevity. They were not so good on the track, going "away" after only a few laps--but they weren't designed as a race tire. I'd imagine they'd be great on a V11.

  9.  

     

     

    I think they're 40 liters. H&B have 30 or 40 liters sizes. I just bought a one time used 30 liter set in Germany for my 1200 Sport. The 40 liters were a big too wide for my taste.

    Yeah, these are rather large. Would be great on a long trip with the better half.

    Where you gonna carry your stuff? :whistle:

    LOL! Truth. ;)

  10. I think they're 40 liters. H&B have 30 or 40 liters sizes. I just bought a one time used 30 liter set in Germany for my 1200 Sport. The 40 liters were a big too wide for my taste.

    Yeah, these are rather large. Would be great on a long trip with the better half.

  11. Whilst I love the fairing, I keep wondering how much of the total visual appeal is due to the rest of the build? I love the polished forks / wheels / tidy rear end/ de emphasised pork chops + motor, even the rearsets look neat. Don't tell my lemon....

    Oh, there is no doubt that it is a complete package--but that fairing goes a long way to achieving that look; more so than any other single component.  But you're onto something:  the reverse cone mufflers, the nakedness of the mid section, the cleanliness of the front end, etc.  Good stuff.

     

    Craig, I hear ya--I've mounted enough race glass on race bikes to know how wildly varying the mounting methods can be (not to mention the quality of those methods... lol).  It was nice to buy "race" aluminum brackets from Airtech and Sharksinz back in the day--it made mounting the front easy, and th rest of the body work could be made to fit around it. 

  12. Sheesh! You had me up late looking for my "emergency blanket" and made me realize how many things I move from the Jeep to the panniers for a long ride (like my first aid kit).

     

    A small can of CRC Electronics Cleaner is brilliant for cleaning contacts, loosening stuck stuff, and cleaning up those pesky oil leaks that Guzzi riders seem so compelled to point out. :blush:

    Docc, are you the hipster or the guy with the feigned surprised look? ;)
    • Haha 1
  13.  

     

     

     

    emmm was thinking the slave, its in behind the rear engine casing aye? behind the rear wheel and swing arm?

    asuming it is in the bell housing and thats were the missing fluid will be aye?

    I'm vague on this , too: if the slave leaks forward along its shaft, will the fluid go clear through to the bell housing (and dribble out the weep hole), or would it flow into the gearbox oil?

    yeah well thats what worries me, everything feels fine altho the gear changes sometimes 'crunch' when they never did... I just dont want to make the issue worse by not finding out the actual issue, leaver feels noral.

    Well, it stands to reason that if there is a leak present, you won't get a full stroke and the gear changes may be a bit more difficult /crunchy.

     

    Sorry to hear about your stroke--I, too, thought you were kidding.

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