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Posts posted by gelos
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Canonman, if you live in Silesia call to REPREMOTO, Guzzi workshop in CZ-746 01 OPAVA, www.repremoto.cz
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I don;t recall how to defeat the Lambda sensors, or if that would allow you to change the CO.
Meinolf has a way to set the CO using the the "writer" software. I can't speak to that, but he says it is easy and the engine temperature doen't matter.
To change CO on the 15RC is only possible when lambda regulation is disable in the map.
The "writer" software is IAW15xEEPROMTool V0.04 (15M, 15P, 15RC), reader and writer in all, download and upload an eep file from EEPROM in ECU, it's an another data section as the map. To change use Tunerpro and matched XDF. Very fast and easy way to set CO. For software / XDF download visit the GuzziDiag website.
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I'am just finishing mount of a Schrick cam (Germany) into V11 Ballabio. I need a few more weeks of time to see the result from dyno runs. But it was not only cam/springs/springcap set, many work needs the timing setting, ports, valveseat, squish, CR etc. For Schrick cam can I give you a datasheet.
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You can look on my dyno runs here
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8556&page=12
My favorite is Stucchi, the stock part is not bad, Mistral no comment -
:thumbsup:
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Check the valve clearance on RH cylinder in TDC, then rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees (one turn) and recheck it.
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Of course the crankshaft timing gear have a key.The crankshaft timing gear doesn't have a key. There is a key on the crank, but that is for the alternator.
They only reason I worry about the phonic wheel positioning is that the pin that goes into it and the camshaft has to line up with the timing gear, as well. So if the phonic wheel is off, the cam gear would be, also.
I am pretty sure the flywheel is correctly on. Then again, I installed it after the timing was put together, so if the timing is off, the flywheel would be, as well.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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Earlier, you said that the noise goes with clutch pull away. My V11 and some others of our group make similar noise from the gearbox.
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Has someone possibly found linear aftermarket springs for the KR type forks, or for the longer version in the Tenni for instance?
Hi Hubert, just now I´am looking at springs for my KS, my standard springs are OD 35mm and 294mm long, it is for KR and KS identical. I find by YSS catalogue that VTR100F springs ar very similar, only the lenght ist 315 mm, it is easy to modify by distance spacer.
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Is the reluctor wheel indexed corectly? I think its possible for the drive pin to be 180 deg out on the camshaft. Although I might be dreaming.
Ciao
Of course, that can be the source of issue. On phonic wheel are really two holes at 180 deg interval, I don't know why. Right possition is with missing tooth visible in rpm sensor bore when LH cylinder TDC at valve overlap. The check is relatively simply, to remove rpm sensor and rotate the crankshaft.
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Why pods? Look? Sound? Power cut-down?
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I think with so much mods will your engine never run good with stock map. From my experience make the under engine exhaust much good volumteric efficiency in mid-range rpm. You have let start TunerPro and create your own version, switch off oxygen sensor and add fuel duty up to 4000-4500 rpm. If you want, I have my own custom map for Ballabio with QD under engine exhaust/stock airbox made for my friend.
Is that map still available?
Of course, PM me.
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Gritman, I think your motorcycle deserves its own thread
:thumbsup:
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According to the frequency of sound I think too it goes from piston, piston pin etc. Remove the spark plugs and try slowly rotate the engine with #24 nut on front crankshaft end to notice any striking resistance or knocking.
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Yes, I'am playing with AFR meter for several years, LM-2 from Innovate Motorsport.
At first a single sensor, now for more accuracy dual kit to meter each cylinder selectively.
I can watch a AFR on display while driving or logg AFR, revs and 4 analog input signal (typicaly TPS + ET sensor) into memory card.
Many guys from german Guzzi forum reports problem with reliability/sensibility by LM-2, my device works passable.
I use the existing small M10x1 plugs on header with adaptor for M18x1,5 sensor thread.
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I think the general concensus is the Stucci cross over is the best. Equal top end or very close to it but large midrange improvement. Thats what I run after research a few years ago.
Ciao
Exactly true
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Yes, my power chart is at engine, not at rear wheel.
Motoguzzinix tested Mistral at the newer V11 with balance pipe and came to similar results, but full engine power at WOT and road cruising are two different worlds.
I know one Ballabio owner with Mistral x-over that is very satisfied.
I'm interested in your mapping, you can see my one, but software for ECU 15M (>2002) and 15RC(2003>) are not directly replaceable, you get a PM from me.
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Hi Anders, I don't like Mistral X-over, you can see my dyno tests with Stucchi, Mistral and stock parts from January 2016 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8556&page=12&do=findComment&comment=213034
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What cam did you mount in your engine now?
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Thanks for reply, three-prong plate is just ordered from the German supplier.
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Just now I have a Rosso Mandelo clutch on my workbench, tomorrow can I post here some pictures. I´am looking for a new friction disc, in whole Europe is only "fan design" RAM disc available http://hmb-guzzi.de/Clutch-disc-RAM-single-disc-clutch. Have somebody experience with this part? Or source for clasicc "round design" disc?
V11 Timing Chain Cover Help!
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