Delman

June 23, 2015

Hi all.

like to rig my signals to flash as 4 way hazard lights as well

ran across this searching youtube https://youtu.be/b11rD3n-d7s

too easy to be true it seems like,

you fox with electrical knowledge, is the above a choice?

any other way?

i haven't looked in to it in depth yet and would apriciate some guidance,

thanks

Delman

June 15, 2015

just replaced the rubber boots, left side had a tare in it between the two holding clamps, incidentally that was the side that popped off.

with the new boots afresh filter and TB cleaned. sync d and balanced, she is better than new.

the boot replacement was pretty painless.

Delman

June 13, 2015

what a difference, she idles at 1200 rpm runs like a sewing machine and pulls like a tractor

gone are small hick ups coughs and hesitations just continious unintrupted power

now I see why you guys are in love with these things

my synch rod was out from me fiddling with everything

the simple manometer works the best

here is how i did it

both air screws backed out one full turn

adjust the TPS to 150 mv with synch bar off of RH TB and idle stop screw backed out and chock in natural position

attach synch rod to RH TB

warm up engine with fan blowing on engine

attach manometer

start the engine watching the fluid level in manometer so if won't get sucked in to the cylinder at the same time start turning the white knob to get fluid levels stabilized, if you see the fluid is going to get sucked in shut off engine and continue turning the white knob until you get the fluid levels close to equal

use the left idle stop screw to set RPM and in conjuction with the white knob fine tune fluid levels

rev up to 3000 RPM check manometer levels adjust with white knob

I was able to get the manometer levels even all the way around with a few tries

my thanks to JB and Photoguzzi for their thoughts

Delman

June 13, 2015

you mean use both left and right throttle stop screws to adjust at idle

some say you don't need the RT throttle screw leave it backed out and some say use the RT to adjust at idle, i tend to agree with the later

June 13, 2015

thanks for the thoughts JB

1. no my manometer consists of two reservoirs that are connected to each other via a tube and each are connected oi the vacuum ports

2. no i don't get even vacuum at idle or higher rpms

3. TB s are clean

4.yes to all

5.i will get that in a bit

6.roger that

7.will do

8.the bike as far as i know is all stock

i will try the simple manometer and report back

thanks

June 13, 2015

Hello

trying to sync/balance the throttle bodies on my 2002 V11 following the thread here and have encountered a problem that i could use some help.

when the bike is attached to my home made manometer at idle 1100rpm then right cylinder has a lot more vacuum than the left, it is to a point that my manometer fluid reservoir (Gatorade bottles) for the left cylinder looses all fluids to the right reservoir and crushes from vacuum.

i did a test while the bike was running and attached to manometer, with the in take boot removed from the right cylinder TB.

when i cover the intake of the right cylinder TB with my hand and reduce the air in take by more than half the levels of my manometer equlises .

i have done the followings to the bike to get to this point.

new rubber boots on both TBs

new fuel filter/air filter and plugs

valves adjusted to .06 and ,08

TPS is set at 150 mv

right throttle stop is backed out all the way

synch rod is in slight tension and both TB plates are resting at the same position in relation to each other( i physically measured them)

air by pass screws are half turn out from close, this was the original setting

adjusting the synch rod dos not affect the vacuum level

any help would be greatly appriciated

thanks

June 3, 2015

Hi All

going to replace the TB intake boots on my 2002 Lemans and throttle balance tuning following the instruction from this forum.

to this I got the 4 new rubber boots coming and a breakout harness.

got a couple of questions see if you good fox can point me in the right direction

how to disconnect the synchronization ball joint from right side TB without breaking it?
Any insight on replacing the TB intake boots?
Any recommended TB internal cleaning while I got everything apart?

thanks

June 2, 2015

thanks for sharing your experinces

just did a 600 miles this weekend nearly all interstate miles

Need a couple more experiments like last weekend to figure out what modification would suite me

I can tell you one thing for certain that a more comfortable seat than stock would make a big difference

any good seat experiences out there?

June 1, 2015

Good morning fox

Looking to improve the rider comfort level of my bike for long distance touring (2002 LeMans)

saw the thread on Corbin fitment for my model, wondering if that has been resolved?

Also looking at Rich's seats, sounds like he needs the bike at his shop, waiting for a reply from him.

Besides the seat which I think would be the best bang for the buck there are the following options:

Forward controls (Motra Tech)
Raised bars (http://mphcycles.com/handle-bar-risers/ has anyone heard/used of of these guys?)

any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated

best regards

Delman

May 20, 2015

I gotta hand it to you guys

You guys know your stuff

after reading the posts when I got home from work went and looked at the boots again and guess what

the boot on the side in question has slipped off the TB.

i am still going to go ahead with a full service as planned

but if you excuse me i got a boot to put on

will keep you posted

life is good again

thanks

May 20, 2015

thanks fellows for all the advice and encoragment

part of my problem is i don't have a good manual or i should say couldn't find a manual

this forum is my manual

even though i am a decent wrench, never had to deal with electronic fuel delivery system

there is always first time for every thing

i ll keep you guys posted on the progress

May 20, 2015

once again the support on this site amazes me

thank you all for chiming in to help

i failed to mention that i am the second owner of the bike, the original owner rode it for 17000 miles and as far as i can tell did not do anything to the bike it still had the original battery and tires on it, they looked more like slicks than tires.

Docc, i got new plugs in there, plug wires i trimmed the ends and re installed them they were running fine before but i should replace them with new, the intake boots show their age but i sprayed a little starting fluid on them while the bike was idling to see if i get a surge in the rpm and it did not. i will check exhaust and the boots again. I am doing the valves this weekend, TPS?(is that throttle positioning system?) and TB can some one point me in the direction of where i can find how to direction on the forum please.

JB, as far as I know ECU and the map should be factory stock, plus i am not smart enough to mess with that stuff, previous owner was in the same boat as me.

i ll be working on her this weekend, valve adjustment, new fuel filter, check exhaust and intake for leaks, new plug wires plug boots

if some one could point me to a how to on valve adjustment and TB balancing and TPS feel free to point them out to me.

once again thank you for your advice

Delman

May 19, 2015

Hi all

back again with another Guzzie problem on my 2002 v11 Lemans

any help would be greatly appreciated

problem description:

a little difficult to start, but not too bad say four tries

as the engine is turning to start you can hear air escaping from the left cylinder almost like the timing is off or the valves aren't closed

after she is running every thing is alright slightly rough but not too bad

when the throttle is blipped a little hesitation is noticed almost like a hick up

after short while say 2 to 3 miles of riding and under 3000 rpm every time the throttle is applied there is a hick up and hesitation and the she catches on as she gets warmer say 5 miles there is an occasional back fire all from the left cylinder

work I have done to the bike:

new battery

fuel vapor canister was removed by me and ports at the intake caped

new plugs wire and plug caps cleaned

head temp sensor on the right cylinder removed and tested all good

this might be coincidental but in the last two weeks its getting warmer around here thats when my problems started

planning to take advantage of the up coming long week end and remove the tank adjust the valves and clean all electrical connections and do some maintenance (air and fuel filters)

like I said earlier any help would be greatly appriciated

this forum has helped me tremendously with my previous issues

this is my first Guzzie and I have owned it for half of the year and love it

I guess you could say we are still bonding

December 14, 2014

new spring and arm came in yesterday

put them on today topped off with some Redline and took her for a ride decpite 35 deg weather

she runs beautifully and shifting silky smooth

I was so pleased that I rewarded her with new set of Michelins that she desperatly needed

thank you all again for your help

Delman

December 10, 2014

little extra protein never killed any body, but thanks i think i have one of those in the back of the garage

December 9, 2014

wats a tooth brush?

December 9, 2014

you know some times we over complicate things as simple as they may be

just tried what Baldini suggested and wala the gear box is in neutral and i can roll the bike freely

I thought I had to disengage the gear box from the gear its in (sliding the actual gears)

thank you for all your input it certinly made it easier to understand the mechanics of it

new spring and ratchet arm are in the mail should have them by the weekend

will post the results

thanks a million

Delman

December 9, 2014

you know some times we over complicate things as simple as they may be

just tried what Baldini suggested and wala the gear box is in neutral and i can roll the bike freely

I thought I had to disengage the gear box from the gear its in (sliding the actual gears)

thank you for all your input it certinly made it easier to understand the mechanics of it

new spring and ratchet arm are in the mail should have them by the weekend

will post the results

thanks a milion

December 7, 2014

Baldini

there are limited movements on the arms free play but i can line them up

by equidistance you mean the two on the left and the two on the right should line up with each other correct?

but the gear box is still engaged

also found an older thread that they did away with the pawl spring and instead used a coil spring to keep tension on the arm

how did that worked out

thanks for your help

December 7, 2014

thanks Baldini I will do that

December 7, 2014

thats what i m thinking

but i read here that you should put it in neutral

i am gona fiddle with it a little if not certin she is going back together in third

now just gota wait for the postman

cheers

December 7, 2014

All right kids

today got the cover off and right off the bat a piece broken PAW spring fell out

its busted half way around the loop

honestly i was surprised at the gage of the wire, its no thicker than a paper clip

i think that is a big part of the problem

tomorrow i will take the selectors off to see if i have the correct size boss if not thinking about ordering the full replacement kit + an extra spring

my next hurdle is to figure out how to get the transmision in to neutral since it is still stuck in third

any pointers would be greatly appriciated

cheers

December 4, 2014

Yep

December 4, 2014

will do

thanks

December 2, 2014

thanks fellows

all linkages look intact nothing out of ordinary that I could see

like i said shifter goes up and down like its not attached to anything until it hits the starter cover bolt and the pork chop

on the way down there is a light sound/feel of a loose spring bounce that might be around the shifter shaft

planning to open it up this weekend to take a look inside

really confused on what parts I need to get with MG re design and all

hopefully opening it will clear some of this out

any tips and suggestions will be greatly appriciated

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