ponti_33609 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Hi - hoping someone can assist in diagnosing this with me? I have posted this on WildGuzzi as well. I have been experience a stalling issue with my 2000 V11 Sport. The issue occurs (becoming more frequently) when I come to a stop light. The bike is idling "normal" which is around 1,100 rpm's. It almost feels like one of the cylinders fails to spark and it just cuts-out. It is not a case where it is having trouble idling but just a "no-fire" and shuts off. It always restarts right up and it might not do this again for another 4-5 light stops. What have I done: 1. Adjusted the valves about a year ago. Wonder if they need it again or did I do something wrong? 2. Changed the plugs to see if that was the issue. The old plugs looked good....not black and sooty...slightly whitish. New ones did not resolve the problem. I was wondering if this could be a TPS issue but she idles well and runs well except for intermittent stalling after idling at the correct rpm's. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Regards, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I had occasional "flame outs" when pulling up to a stop sign a few years ago. A valve adjustment plus a throttle body balance cured the problem for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Sometimes when you change the valve settings you need to re balance the tb's. Also I think you might have to recalibrate your tps for a ew valve setting. Check spark plug gap too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Hi - hoping someone can assist in diagnosing this with me? I have posted this on WildGuzzi as well. I have been experience a stalling issue with my 2000 V11 Sport. The issue occurs (becoming more frequently) when I come to a stop light. The bike is idling "normal" which is around 1,100 rpm's. It almost feels like one of the cylinders fails to spark and it just cuts-out. It is not a case where it is having trouble idling but just a "no-fire" and shuts off. It always restarts right up and it might not do this again for another 4-5 light stops. Bob, nothing to be concerned about. I've dealt with this many times, as have many others. If this is the only problem it's exhibiting and the TB's are in balance, and you've set the valves to "world spec" (.004" and .006") a year ago, I'd raise the idle to 1200 RPM and it should go away. You want a little more R's to ensure adequate oil pressure at idle anyway. If you haven't used World Spec valve settings, I certainly would, at a minimum. Roper recommends 5 and 7, the Raceco spec is 8 and 10 -- but you picks your own, and run with it. In hot weather, I've found it prefers 6 and 8, but that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponti_33609 Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 Bob, nothing to be concerned about. I've dealt with this many times, as have many others. If this is the only problem it's exhibiting and the TB's are in balance, and you've set the valves to "world spec" (.004" and .006") a year ago, I'd raise the idle to 1200 RPM and it should go away. You want a little more R's to ensure adequate oil pressure at idle anyway. If you haven't used World Spec valve settings, I certainly would, at a minimum. Roper recommends 5 and 7, the Raceco spec is 8 and 10 -- but you picks your own, and run with it. In hot weather, I've found it prefers 6 and 8, but that's just me. Hi - I am to World Spec's on the valves when I adjusted them..........can raise the RPM's slightlly......one more question..................where my bike has low/no real miles on it (it must have sat quite a spell before I got her), could a slightly clogged fuel injector be doing this to me too? Was thinking of throwing in some Sea Foam or equivalent. It is funny.....doesn't cut out all the time.......about 15-20% of the stop lights and then she starts right back up! Gap on plugs (new) are .028. Thx again guys for all your help, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Bob, this tends to be very intermittent, as you noted. You can easily raise the idle as high as you want by adjusting the throttle stop allen screw, but 1200 RPM is about as high as you want or need. If it runs well and pulls smoothly up thru the rev range, it's highly doubtful you could have much of any clogging at an injector. Couldn't hurt to run some cleaner thru, but more'n likely won't help your intermittent idle snuff either. I like Techron, but that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Chuck Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Bob, this tends to be very intermittent, as you noted. You can easily raise the idle as high as you want by adjusting the throttle stop allen screw, but 1200 RPM is about as high as you want or need. If it runs well and pulls smoothly up thru the rev range, it's highly doubtful you could have much of any clogging at an injector. Couldn't hurt to run some cleaner thru, but more'n likely won't help your intermittent idle snuff either. I like Techron, but that's just me. We went through this on the Centauro several years ago. The idle stall happens when the bike is just slightly lean at idle. Probably adjusting the TPS and balancing the throttle bodies are all that is needed. As mentioned above, idle speed should be 1200 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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