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Voltage regulator swap


dhansen

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Just ran the V11 with the 750 Breva regulator. All appears to be well. Just under 13 volts at idle and just over 14 at 3000 or so RPM.

 

We'll see if it cures the long running intermittent voltage variations and engine miss issue.

 

I'll post some pictures tonight or tomorrow.

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I haven't measured currents on my bike so far. Only voltage. Then I see at the poles around 12.1 with lights and Lambda controller/heater on, no pump, and around 12.8 with the engine at idle.

12.8 is probably not really recharging the battery. Anyway, as the voltage is higher as with the engine off I assume the alternator does an acceptable job already at idle rpms.

 

Hubert

 

Hi chaps

 

I run a voltmeter (analogue)on my bike permanently. Mine at idle shows about 12.5 - 13v and when in normal running say 3000 rpm it's showing about 14v.Running an HID setup and heated vest and grips and never have had any issues with battery voltage. I guess on average it's doing the job. The alternator generates 300W so I can't imagine there is any real issue. O/C voltage off the alternator is 450v plus (AC)even at idle.

 

Cheers

 

Jon

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Here is what I've done to fit the 750 Breva Regulator.

 

New connectors to match harness on the V11. The two green wires from the regulator were spliced to an extension with a ring connector to attach to the engine block/ground. The two red/white wires from the regulator join together and connect to the green/red wire in the harness which connects to the positive side of the battery. The yellow wires from the regulator connect to the yellow wires from the alternator. The two wires in the bike harness that feed the charging light on the instrument panel have been taped over. The charging light is now inoperable. The Breva regulator is physically larger than the original and the mounting hole spacing is different. I welded an extension to the original bracket to reposition the regulator to allow for its larger size and narrower hole spacing.

 

125629.jpg

 

This is the new regulator in place. I needed (2) slightly longer screws (+ 5mm) to fasten the regulator to the bracket. The ground wire you can see under the mounting bolt is required with the original regulator but isn't really needed with the Breva unit. It doesn't hurt to have it there and if I should ever go back to the original style regulator all I need to do is swap it out.

 

143557.jpg

 

Now the only question remaining is does this cure my intermittent voltage issue?

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Now the only question remaining is does this cure my intermittent voltage issue?

I found a loose connection on R2 that caused the tacho to drop out intermittently, by association the regulator would fail also. Look at my detailed post about 9 back.

Roy

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I found a loose connection on R2 that caused the tacho to drop out intermittently, by association the regulator would fail also. Look at my detailed post about 9 back.

Roy

 

Roy, my problem has been intermittent periods of high voltage. (Very apparent at night in headlight and instrument lights). The condition is always accompanied by a neutral throttle miss or surge. (Generally accelerates and decelerates as normal). It may last for 15 seconds or 15 minutes and appears at random times and in all conditions.

 

I first posted the symptoms in 2007. As you can see, it isn't a huge problem but it has been darn annoying. Battery performance is fine, starts fine and when it isn't doing its thing, runs very well.

 

Thanks for your help!

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Roy, my problem has been intermittent periods of high voltage. (Very apparent at night in headlight and instrument lights). The condition is always accompanied by a neutral throttle miss or surge. (Generally accelerates and decelerates as normal). It may last for 15 seconds or 15 minutes and appears at random times and in all conditions.

 

I first posted the symptoms in 2007. As you can see, it isn't a huge problem but it has been darn annoying. Battery performance is fine, starts fine and when it isn't doing its thing, runs very well.

 

Thanks for your help!

I'm pretty sure the ECU cuts out on over voltage, it may be programmed in there to protect itself. I observed this at the weekend.

Make sure you have a good ground wire from the engine to regulator, assuming yours is a Ducati all the current returns that way.

Reading on the web our regulators are c***, Have you tried a different one?

OOPS, I looked back, you have

The regulator should try to maintain the voltage between it's output and ground. If there's any way the ground is floating high the output will follow

I don't think yours uses the case as ground reference like Ducati.

Roy

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Nice job Dennis :thumbsup: Do you have a voltmeter mounted on your bike? If not you might want to think about getting one now that you don't have a functional charging light anymore. I like having one but I can't recommend the one that I have because it occasionally gives wacky voltage readings which I have verified are wrong by checking with a quality hand held volt/ohm meter.

 

Here's the one that you don't want:

 

19348_1.jpg

http://www.compacc.com/p/Show-Chrome-Digital-5-Function-Volt-Meter/1119003/0

 

 

Anybody have any recommendations for a small digital volt meter?

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Nice job Dennis :thumbsup: Do you have a voltmeter mounted on your bike? If not you might want to think about getting one now that you don't have a functional charging light anymore. I like having one but I can't recommend the one that I have because it occasionally gives wacky voltage readings which I have verified are wrong by checking with a quality hand held volt/ohm meter.

 

Here's the one that you don't want:

 

19348_1.jpg

http://www.compacc.com/p/Show-Chrome-Digital-5-Function-Volt-Meter/1119003/0

 

 

Anybody have any recommendations for a small digital volt meter?

An Ammeter would be nice also, connected between the battery and Load/Charging circuit so you can see net charge/discharge

Nearly all the old British bikes with generators had them. It seems our charging system is just as flakey.

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An Ammeter would be nice also, connected between the battery and Load/Charging circuit so you can see net charge/discharge

Nearly all the old British bikes with generators had them. It seems our charging system is just as flakey.

 

You know that's just going to encourage the gremlins, don't you?

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Just back from a 2 hour ride with the Breva regulator installed and I'm cautiously optomistic. Not a hint of the old troubles so far. I can't remember that last time I rode for that length of time without experiencing the surging and bucking. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

 

I would be interested in a voltage meter of some sort. Preferably not Lucas! I had asked about this unit on Wildgoose but nobody commented on it. Anyone here familiar with it?

 

 

Battery Bug

 

Battery_Bug_-_BB-SBM12-PS_web_size.jpg

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Just back from a 2 hour ride with the Breva regulator installed and I'm cautiously optomistic. Not a hint of the old troubles so far. I can't remember that last time I rode for that length of time without experiencing the surging and bucking. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

 

I would be interested in a voltage meter of some sort. Preferably not Lucas! I had asked about this unit on Wildgoose but nobody commented on it. Anyone here familiar with it?

 

 

Battery Bug

 

Battery_Bug_-_BB-SBM12-PS_web_size.jpg

I read through the specs, it looks pretty good to me.

You could leave it permanently attached. I wonder if it should have a fuse in the positive lead though

 

Roy

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Hope you got your problem solved. That battery bug looks like it would do the trick but where would you mount it on your Sport?

 

Here's a single multi color LED that could probably be installed in place of the charge light.

 

Heads Up Voltage Monitor

 

Here's a "splash proof" LCD volt meter that might work well.

 

Martel Meter

 

And there's always the Kuryakyn gauge too.

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