How to wire up an LC-1

[68C]

Hi all, any chance of someone giving me a dummies guide to wiring up the Innovate LC-1 to a 2004 V11 Rosso Corsa which is fitted with a Cliff Jefferies My15M ECU.

My bike has the wiring loom suitable for the ‘with catalyser’ version and has a four pin plug which connects to the standard O2 sensor.  The sensor connects to the ECU via the main connector, I am not using the three pins on the My15M pcb.  The My15M reads this O2 sensor OK and runs closed loop using voltage settings as suggested by Cliff for the standard O2 sensor.

I would now like to convert to a wideband system my intention is to cut the wire off an old standard O2 sensor and wire it to the LC1 so that I can plug it back into the bike loom rather than run extra wires to the pcb pins.

This much I do know.  Grounding is very important.  Also the LC-1 must be supplied with +12v as soon as the ignition is switched on to allow the O2 sensor to heat up to avoid any thermal shock to the 02 sensor, this is supplied by the 4 pin plug from the injection power relay.  I will also have to edit my map back to the original LC-1 voltages.

My problem is with the analogue inputs to the 4 pin plug.

As standard the bike is wired as below:

 

Original 02 sensor                                                            4 Pin Socket

Pin 1      Black      Heater ground  -----------------------------Pin 1      Black     ---------------------Ground

Pin 2      Grey      Heater 12v         -----------------------------Pin 2     Red/Black-----------------+12v from injector relay

Pin 3      White    Analogue ????? -----------------------------Pin 3     Orange ----------------------ECU pin 8

Pin 4      White    Analogue ????? -----------------------------Pin 4     Orange/Black---------------ECU Pin 2

 

I intend to add the LC-1 and an AFR Gauage:

Innovate LC-1                                                                    4 Pin Socket

Red                         12v Supply      ------------------------------Pin 2   Red/Black------------------+12v from injector relay

Yellow                    Analogue Out 1 -----------------------------PIN ?????         ---------------------?????

Green                    Analogue Ground----------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground

Blue                       Heater Ground ------------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground

White                     System Ground -----------------------------------------------------------------------Common ground

Brown                   Analogue Out 2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------AFR Gauge

Black                      Calibration Wire-----------------------------------------------------------------------Calibration switch.

 

The LC-1 manual indicates the ‘Analogue Out 1’ should go to the ECU.

Q1/        Which pin on the 4 pin connector to use, pin 3 or 4 (ecu pins 8 & 2)? 

Q2/        Should the remaining pin ( 3 or 4) be connected, The LC-1 Manual suggests it should be grounded but not connected to the LC-1 or is it grounded within the My15M.

 

Many thanks. I have also posted this on the MyEcu Forum.

[68C]

Ok, I have figured this one out.  The LC-1 Analogue Out 1 lead goes to pin 3 of the 4 pin socket which feeds pin 8 of the ECU.

 

Just posted this to tidy things up for anyone searching later on.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Let me get this right. You are able to go closed loop without an optomizer, I thought that was required.

 

I just put an LC-1 on my bike, haven't really had a chance to use it yet.

I love my MyECU but I assumed I would have to feed back the corrections manually.

 

Roy

[luhbo]

You should not run the engine closed loop without an Optimiser (or similar) unless you have a matching map for it. Closed loop is a more or less stationary thing. Use this option for optimising given maps - together with the Optimiser or one of the bluetooth thingies.

Even with a well matched map the bike runs better open loop. Unmatched maps can perform really bad when run closed loop.

 

Hubert

[Kiwi_Roy]

Thanks Luhbo, that's what I thought.

I plan on just using the LC-1 to let me know if the map is rich or lean then I will adjust it accordingly.

Roy

[68C]

I do have the Optimiser which I have found to be great fun.  I have fitted a larger display which makes it much easier to read however Cliff seems to be moving away from the idea of looking at the screen whilst riding. I seems to be getting nervous we all kill ourselves. Rather he now advises the Android mobile phone approach whereby you log a ride and then adjust the map semi-manually back at home.

 

As I understand it you need the Optimiser in Autotune to correct your map. Once your bike runs with the map OK you do not need the Optimiser. You can select Closed Coop and it will  try to keep to the AFR values you have assigned to the various cells.  The problem of course is you need to decide what AFR you want.

 

The truth is my 04 Rosso Corsa runs OK with the oem ecu.  I have fitted the My15M as a way of finding out how alterations affect the bike - it is unlikely I will ever achieve the 'perfect' map as I am probably not a sensitive enough rider to recognise it.  This is all a bit like the old days when you rode around with a pocketfull of carb jets and stopping to check the spark plug colour. Do you try for the perfect colour (AFR) or the best running bike.

[luhbo]

I don't know what I could add. Keep the map between lambda .9 and .95, make changes where you think driveability would accept someting near 1 or, on the other side, would need something a tad richer, and check your progress at the gas station, watching the consumption/efficiency.

Next step could be swapping other parts of the system, like pipes, snorkels, or cams if you're that advanced, and watch the effect immediately on your Optimiser's display (as you wrote, too).

Next step could be the show part, means how to set ignition and fueling around idle to get the most effect out of short trottle twists while you roll in front between files of cars waiting at the lights - the bike having the correct exhaust mounted, of course

This unit really can keep you busy ... 

 

Hubert 

[68C]

Yeah too right.  I used to love sitting at the lights with my old T3, front brake on and blipping the throttle while working the clutch lever back and forth. The old style torque reaction pushing the swinging arm down and lifting the bike - after a while you could get it really rocking.  "Only I can tame this savage beast!".  When I was a child I thought as a child etc.

 

I will take your advice on .9 - .95v.  I suppose its a matter of making changes to exhaust/airbox etc which result in it running weak then adding fuel to get back to the desired AFR.  If an alteration makes it run weak it is a good thing as you can then add fuel and get more power. As my old engineering instructer would say, " We use the oxygen to oxidise the fuel to creat heat to expand the nitrogen to push the piston down". If after a change the motor runs weak we have spare oxygen which can oxidise more fuel.

[luhbo]

Most changes I've tried so far result in a richer mixture - or, in other words, the Optimiser showing negative correction values. The best compromise indeed is the standard setup, this means the overweight and ugly standard cans

When I had those long and open Mistrals on the bike the numbers showed a lot less air (up to 10%) below 5000, but on the other end of the scale and at L=0.8 the closed-loop asked for more fuel than what the nozzles could deliver on 3bar pressure.

 

Hubert

[68C]

I expect the only real changes we can make are by removing the emission and noise control limitations, probably technically illegal in many places and will soon be socially unacceptable everywhere.  Still, there is always bigger cylinders, higher RPM, forced induction via turbo or super charging, intercooling....... loads of fun to be had yet.  My mate is still making improvements to his 350cc Velocette!

 

When you speak of L=0.8, I assume this is using stoichiometric as L=1 rather than the voltage output of a narrow band O2 sensor.

[luhbo]

Exactly. I configured my O2 controller so that for Lambda=1 it signals exactly 1V, .8 for .8 or 1.2 for 1.2 as Cliff once wrote somewhere. First I thought that was not the best idea, because I lost quite a bit of accuracy doing that, but then someone mentioned, wasn't it Raz, that this small window on the other hand provides some useful damping. Now it's enough just to stare at the Optimiser, no more need to do calculations/estimations on top of that

[68C]

Thanks, I will look into using these limited range voltages.