callison Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 The Frankenstein mix of parts that my V11 Sport consists of is now operating again. Sort of. There are teething problems, oil leaks from the 1996 front engine case and really old oil seal, oil pressure sender that isn't, neutral light that doesn't etc. These I can fix. But, there is this other problem. The ECU fuse blows when the throttle is opened a lot rapidly. It could be: 1. A wiring problem that shows up under acceleration. 2. A screwed up ECU. 3. A coil with a problem that manifests itself at higher rpm's. Before I start tearing into it to fix this problem, I'm soliciting information from the forum if anyone has experience along these lines. It's been a long time, I really enjoyed riding in the miserable fog yesterday simply because I was riding the beast again. The California is such a wimp compared to the Sport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 earth problems? The alternator is making serious amps at that moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 24, 2005 Author Share Posted January 24, 2005 Good point. The frame has been powder coated so the ground points may be compromised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 This sounds good, but why does the ecu fuse pop? I you have a bad ground, you should have less then normal currents. I have no idea, I am asking... Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 A poor regulator ground, not a bad one, but one that exhibits some resistance between the voltage regulator and chassis ground will cause the regulator to reference its output higher than what it is supposed to be. The ECU has a zener or a crowbar circuit that will shunt overvoltages to ground, draw a lot of current and that will pop the fuse for protection. This is a logical possibility and one that I will have to investigate when I have the bike back together again. Right now, it's coming apart to replace the front engine case and front crankshaft seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuhaV Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 The ECU fuse blows when the throttle is opened a lot rapidly. 41754[/snapback] Hi, How about if you open the throttle slowly wide open and therefore let the engine rpm rise more slowly ? Can you say that the fuse blows at some certain rpm or is it really got to do with the rapid opening of the throttle ? br, JuhaV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 I also think the crowbar circuit is the problem, due to overvoltage. What size is your ECU fuse. Mine is 15A which is crazy. I'd be surprised if it took much more than a 1/4A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 The fuse blows when the throttle is opened a lot to accelerate. Fuse size is 5A. I don't know what the instantaneous current into the coils is Cliff, but I would bet the ECU needs just a little bit more than a quarter amp fuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Ok I'm thinking of the sport which has a seperate fuse/relay for the ECU. The V11 has just one for the fuel pump and coils. In that case 5A is not enough. The fuel pump itself takes about 5-6A. The injectors don't take much. They're about 30ohm. The coils will take 5-10A but this is only for a few ms. You should be using 10A or 15A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 According to http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...9_V11_sport.gif the ECU fuse (fuse 1, 5AMP) does not protect the ECU. It protects the Coils, fuel injectors, and fuel pump. While the injector, coil, fuel pump fuse(fuse2, 10AMP) protects the ECU and the injection relay. So, I think something is wrong with your diagram... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 Dang Dave. You're probably right. The schematic for the catalytic sport is probably more correct. Something more to fix... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 Dang Dave. You're probably right. The schematic for the catalytic sport is probably more correct. Something more to fix... 41906[/snapback] Fortunately no rewiring this time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 27, 2005 Author Share Posted January 27, 2005 And back to the further travails of "FrankenSport". Changed the front engine case for the correct one and put in the new seal (great fun!). Then discovered that I had three oil leaks, not two. Damn! The torn breather hose was #1, the deformed old seal was #2 and somewhere in the front of the transmission... there's another. And not a small one either. A liberal puddle has formed on the lower engine case and under the bike. For those of you that have actually taken one of these bikes to that point, are there any shortcuts to just extracting the transmission? I've already had this bike down to the frame once and frankly, I don't want to go to that length again if I can avoid it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted January 27, 2005 Author Share Posted January 27, 2005 Okay Dave, I've fixed the V11 Sport diagram. I must have decided to clean it up and swapped some relay stuff around. Yech. What a disaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 Okay Dave, I've fixed the V11 Sport diagram. I must have decided to clean it up and swapped some relay stuff around. Yech. What a disaster. 41972[/snapback] Thanks Carl, and just in time! My front brake does not activate the brake light. The switch is fine and the brake light is fine, so I have to track down a connection in the wiring... Sorry to hear about all the tough luck with oil leaks. Are you sure that Igor didn't get the franken-gaskets off a dead Brit? By the way. I love the way the bike looks with the combination of black and silver with none of the OE red. As for fixing the leak, I guess you know about crabbing the thang. Other than that, I have no advice and I too, am overdue for the same surgery, so let us know how it goes. My leak appears to be coming from the second case joint from the back and definitely not in the clutch housing The only good news is that the leak has gotten slower and slower....but that may just be the coool weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now