Engine trouble shooting

[Pascal]

Hi;

The bike: Rosso Mandello; 25 000 KM; Ninja mufflers; Stucchi X over; K&N filter; PC III

The problem. Under 4 000 rpm & particularly between 3 000 / 4 000 rpm the engine "cuts". This appears only when the throttle is at a constant position.

Otherwise, the engine works fine, no problem when I accelerate and no problem after 4 000 rpm. (The problem exits already before mounting the PC III)

With my workshop we've replace the TPS, the oil temperature jauge, the air temperature jauge but the problem persist.

Has somebody an idea about this problem???

Thank you.

[jrt]

Like a 'hiccup' or a full cut-out, dead for a second?

If it's a hiccup, then common reasons are that the valves are set too tightly, or the bike is still running a lean condition.

[DVH]

Had the same fault, it would hiccup, every now and then between 3--4000 rpm, finally traced it to the intake rubbers between the throttle body and intake stub been split, making one pot run weak. would only do it on a constant throttle

[Pascal]

Like a 'hiccup' or a full cut-out, dead for a second?

If it's a hiccup, then common reasons are that the valves are set too tightly, or the bike is still running a lean condition.

52671[/snapback]

Yes a "hiccup". I think its an injection problem not the ignition. I'll look to the VDH solution... But if you have an other idea...

[Mike Stewart]

Question time!

 

1. Where did you get the PCIII Map?

2. At what throttle opening does the cough occur, 5%, 10%, 20% , 0% being closed throttle?

 

I had a cough on the Ghezzi-Brian, I checked the valves, one side was tight but I still had a cough about 3 to 3500 rpm. I finally looked at the map and richened up the lower throttle openings at the rpms I was having the problem at. I just added in small amounts and rode the bike to work and then paid real close attention to what throttle opening it was at and what rpm. I could feel the problem getting better and better with every down load to the PCIII. I now just have a slight surge and I know it needs to be just a tad richer.

 

Good luck,

Mike

[callison]

There's always the possibility of the phase sensor gap being too large.

[Guest ratchethack]

Pascal, you might give this a try:

 

http://www.guzzitech.com/V11SCutout.html

 

Good luck :!:

[Guest rollingthunder]

Thanks for asking this question Pascal - I'm having exactly the same problem - a hiccup between 3000-3500 on a steady throttle - usually when I'm filtering through city traffic which is a bit unnerving!

 

Great feedback as usual everyone - thanks to you guys as well! I'll try the solutions mentioned, although as my bike is standard barring Mistral race cans, its more likely to be the rubbers - they do look a bit crazed to be honest.

 

All the best,

 

Sam

[jrt]

The rubber intakes are an excellent first candidate.

Also, if you added Mistral pipes, I guarantee you'll be running lean if you didn't tweak the TPS or PCIII.

[Guest Ken Bruce]

The rubber intakes are an excellent first candidate. 

Also, if you added Mistral pipes, I guarantee you'll be running lean if you didn't tweak the TPS or PCIII.

52786[/snapback]

 

 

I'm running mistral pipes on a standard bike ... so please tell me whats the TPS \ PCIII? mine hiccups too mostly on tickover - its only dropped dead once at the lights.... i put it down to italian electrics.... funny thing is the guys behind always say mine smells of petrol so i assumed its running rich all the time...? won't the injection system compensate automatically?

[jrt]

If it has a lambda probe (oxygen probe), then the ECU will auto-correct to some extent, I believe. Do any of the European bikes have a lambda probe? I thought some did.

 

But to answer your question- the TPS is the throttle position sensor- it tells the computer how far open your throttle is, so the computer can then set the correct fuel injection. It's just a potentiometer (a volume control, so to speak) and it is found on top of the right hand side injector. See that black plastic button on top, held down by two torx screws with yellow paint and "weber" is printed on there? That's the TPS. There is a three wire connector coming out of it. pull the rubber boot back and carefully disconnect the AMP connector to see them (AMP is a brand name, btw).

The TPS is 'set' by adjusting it's position- loosen the torx screws, rotate the TPS. By measuring across the two outermost wires (I think), and rotating the TPS to about 550 mV at idle, that's setting the TPS. Simple eh?

The not-so-simple complication is that the AMP connector has to be hooked up. But that's easy to get around also.

 

Your description sounds more like the valve settings are too tight. Check those first and set them to Euro spec.