grossohc Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 Hello there I am looking for some advice. My rear tyre is punctured and i need to remove the wheel,which seems simple enough except for the bit in the owners manual which says (position the rear transmission box so that its weight does not stress the joints on the angular end of stroke position as this could damage them) what does that mean do i tie up the trans. box up with a piece of string and what is the end of stroke position. Any advice would be appreciated before i balls up the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 Personally, I just slip the axle back through to support the rear drive box after removing the wheel. I don't know what anyone else does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 What Carl said works best for me too, but if you're taking the spindle all the way out, and you don't have an extra set of hands to catch the bevel box, you can use bungee cords to hold it up before removing the spindle. You can hook one or 2 on the brake stay and loop 'em over the seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twhitaker Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 What they said. I removed the tire to install the 'Edge Guard' last Sunday. I had the bike supported on a paddock stand. I disconnected the brake caliper from its mount. I made a lever out of a couple boards to support the tire just to take the weight off the axle. If you withdraw the spindle about 7 inches it should support the drive box adequately. There is a spacer sleeve that fits between the the male spline on the wheel and the female spline on the drive box. If you do things right the spacer will stay in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 Be careful when removing the wheel. I had mine up on the padock stand and had things get a little too tippy when I droped the rear wheel. Not sure what I did but it was on it's way over and fortunatly I had a helping hand to catch things before they got expensive I now always support it from above with a strap to a beam in the garage just in case things get loose it wont fall. I think I picked that tip up from Rich Maud or another member. It's good insurance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aironepony Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 Be careful when removing the wheel. I had mine up on the padock stand and had things get a little too tippy when I droped the rear wheel. Not sure what I did but it was on it's way over and fortunatly I had a helping hand to catch things before they got expensive I now always support it from above with a strap to a beam in the garage just in case things get loose it wont fall. I think I picked that tip up from Rich Maud or another member. It's good insurance 53771[/snapback] Edge, out of interest, were you using the "Guzzi" paddock stand or some other device? The Guzzi stand uses the studs on the footpeg plates for lifting and I would think that would be OK.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 Yes I was using the Guzzi stand. The best I can remember I was pulling on the axel and gently applying force laterally trying to get the wheel off. When the wheel became free, the bike twisted off the Prok Chop bolts that are used for the stand. I figured the lateral force and CG shift caused things to get crossed up. Once was enough for me. I just loop a cargo strap under the seat pan, protecting the fairing, and apply a little tension to ensure it does not go far if things were to slip again by me or the Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 the bike twisted off the Prok Chop bolts that are used for the stand. I've had the same problem with the Dunwell adaptors on my ATV lift. The upright posts actually insert into receptacles on the adaptor. This is good because you have to remove them to clear the bottom of the bike, but it's also bad because they're not a tight fit and the extra slop can allow for the ears to slide free of the engine mount bolt. As it turns out, they can be installed with the ears inwards as well, so slipping off is no longer an issue. I'm really lazy now too, I use a paddock stand to get the bike upright initially and high enough to clear the lift and then getting the lift in place is relatively painless. Lifts can give you a great deal of height to ease access to the bike as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 I use a pair of car chassis stands under the pork chops. Works a treat and is very stable. A trolley jack under the sump and an assistant gets it up there, although I have managed it single handed before. See the picture in my needle bearing thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aironepony Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 What they said. I removed the tire to install the 'Edge Guard' last Sunday. I had the bike supported on a paddock stand. I disconnected the brake caliper from its mount. I made a lever out of a couple boards to support the tire just to take the weight off the axle. If you withdraw the spindle about 7 inches it should support the drive box adequately. There is a spacer sleeve that fits between the the male spline on the wheel and the female spline on the drive box. If you do things right the spacer will stay in there. 53765[/snapback] Incidentally, I have just fitted an Edge Guard on my Rosso Corsa. A perfect fit and easily installed. ......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 I know I am probably hopelessly ignorant for asking this, but what the F**K is an "Edge Guard"????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twhitaker Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Edge Guard = Look in the 'Fabricated rear-shock mud guard' thread here in the technical section. Edge has come up with a VERY nice product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nogbad Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Edge Guard = Look in the 'Fabricated rear-shock mud guard' thread here in the technical section. Edge has come up with a VERY nice product. 53858[/snapback] Ah. OK. There was I trying to work out what edge needed protecting and where it was! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 I'm still waiting to see a picture of this edge guard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 I'll try to take a picture tonight and post it tomorrow (in the other thread). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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