jenslh Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Finished the building/install of the My16M/Optimiser/LC-1 wideband unit, and it actually works ! (Had more faith in the products than in my ability to get the lot working) Detailed description and lots of pictures here: http://www.guzzitech.dk/10/1100%20Sport/My16M/My16M.htm /Jens http://www.guzzitech.dk/english Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtucker Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Thanks for the write-up, Jens - nice job! Once my engine rebuild is complete, re-tuning is going to be a big concern of mine. I keep thinking about trying the My15M... __Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stewart Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 You do excellent work Humm, where is my soldering iron? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 You used the analog output that simulates a smallband lambda? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenslh Posted May 4, 2006 Author Share Posted May 4, 2006 You used the analog output that simulates a smallband lambda? No, the LC-1 has two fully programmable outputs, and narrow band sensor behaveior is useeless for trimming the injection map - IMHO. Output 1 is set to: Lambda 1,2 = 0 volt and Lambda 0,7 = 5 Volt (I may narrow in the range later to improve resolution, but this is fine for now. Output 2 is set to: Lambda 0,7 = 0,7 volt and Lambda 1,2 = 1,2 volt. This allows me to connect a voltmeter and read lambda values directly. /Jens www.guzzitech.dk/english Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 No, the LC-1 has two fully programmable outputs, and narrow band sensor behaveior is useeless for trimming the injection map - IMHO. 88217[/snapback] I guess the five volt range of the wideband more accurate than the the one volt range of the narrowband emulation.? Great job getting that all together. Did you measure the temperature at the sensor? I was thinking of putting my sensor about where yours is, but wanted to get a temperature reading first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenslh Posted May 4, 2006 Author Share Posted May 4, 2006 I guess the five volt range of the wideband more accurate than the the one volt range of the narrowband emulation.? Great job getting that all together. Did you measure the temperature at the sensor? I was thinking of putting my sensor about where yours is, but wanted to get a temperature reading first. 88220[/snapback] Yep, the higher the voltage span, the better the resolution = accuracy. Nope, never bothered to take a temp reading, I figured the current location approx. 10 cm from the rear end of the header pipe was ok - and it has worked so far. I wanted it to be placed in front of the header/cross over connection to avoid leaks to disturb the readings. /Jens www.guzzitech.dk/english Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pShenk Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 Jens, when you mounted your LC-1, where did you attach the three grounding wires? I notice in the manual that they want two different locations. Also, you don't happen to have any schematics for that little electronics juntion box you made, do you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slug Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 I was thinking of putting my sensor about where yours is, but wanted to get a temperature reading first. I put my o2 sensor just a little further back from where Jens put his, and had a lot of trouble with overheating the sensor. I'm using the Innovate LC-1 as well. Fortunately Innovate sells a nice stainless heat sink (although a bit pricey) which has solved all my overheating problems. Innovate also gives instructions for a do it yourself heatsink out of a small sheet of copper, but IMHO it would look like a "farm fix" on our bikes. The LC-1 is nice because the controller can sense when the sensor is too hot and it does two things: 1. The controller won't put a signal because when the sensor is too hot. 2. The indicator LED (if hooked up) will show an error code (8 blinks.) This way you know when something is wrong (especially when running closed loop ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenslh Posted September 3, 2006 Author Share Posted September 3, 2006 pShenk: I just attached the three grounding wires to the same grounding point. Having three different ground wires is just an attempt to make the device act corectly on vehicles that have multiple ground voltage levels, due to bad engineering or neglect. Make sure your Guzzi have proper grounding wires (lots of models dont), and you will have no trouble when you connect the three ground wires to the same point. And no, I never bothered to make schematics for the junction box - everything is assemblet according to the LC-1 instruction booklet. The box is just there to avoid an ugly "birds nest" of wires, and to hold the pushbutton and the LED. Ohh yes - the rocker switch is for calibration. The ECU shuts of power after a few seconds if the engine isn't started, so I needed a way to keep power to the LC-1 for calibration. Slug: I never had any overheating problems with my sensor - could you please post a picture showing the location of yours ? /Jens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slug Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 Slug: I never had any overheating problems with my sensor - could you please post a picture showing the location of yours ? /Jens Here a link: The Link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pShenk Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 pShenk: I just attached the three grounding wires to the same grounding point. Having three different ground wires is just an attempt to make the device act corectly on vehicles that have multiple ground voltage levels, due to bad engineering or neglect. Make sure your Guzzi have proper grounding wires (lots of models dont), and you will have no trouble when you connect the three ground wires to the same point. Thanks. I'm at little at sea when it comes to how the Guzzi, or any motorcycle, is wired. Where might I find the grounding wire, and/or how might I tell my bike has a proper one. When it comes to electrics, I'd rather not make any stupid mistakes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quazi-moto Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Next year I might try running closed loop with the My15M on my '02 LeMans. Hopefully it won't be too difficult to set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pShenk Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 pShenk: I just attached the three grounding wires to the same grounding point. Having three different ground wires is just an attempt to make the device act corectly on vehicles that have multiple ground voltage levels, due to bad engineering or neglect. Make sure your Guzzi have proper grounding wires (lots of models dont), and you will have no trouble when you connect the three ground wires to the same point. I'm just getting back to this project (installing the LC-1), but I'm still wondering where to attach the grounds. Can I just wire them to the negative pole of the battery? That seems to be where all the other grounding wires are hooked up. Also, Jens... what did you splice into for the switched power supply? I was thinking of maybe the running light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 That sounds reasonable for the grounds. For the +ve, I spiced into the same feed as the fuel pump/injectors/coils. I took it from near the relay. Better to be switched by the ECU rather than the key. I don't like any unnecessary load when turning the key on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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