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Desperately Seeking For Valves...


Frio

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Hello John,

 

thanks for the tip, although 25.000 Euros? Maybe not... it is more than the price as new.

If I want to spend that kind of money I will order one directly from Guzzi and have the personalized cover and crate...

 

Frio

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Hello gentlemen,

 

I am new here, but I have been lurking on this and other Guzzi forums for a while.

After this quick introduction I would like to bring to your attention my quest to find my first Moto Guzzi bike.

 

I am looking for:

 

1) A good condition Daytona Racing / Daytona RS

2) A MGS-01 (easier said than done huh?)

 

If anyone knows anything about a MGS for sale please let me know.

 

I would really appreciate any help in this quest :)

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Frio

 

P.S. perhaps I should just wait for the new 1200 4V sports bike? :D

 

Here is an older Daytona

Daytona1000

It looks like the RS cause of the back tail piece but I think this is just added and the model is the"older" Daytona1000 the RS is kind of difficult to find since few were produced, (113in '96 and 195 pieces in '97)

 

There is also a friend of mine who thinks of selling his DAYTONA 1000RS, it is modified with a Dynotec 135PS motor and other "goodies" as well, email me if interested.

 

Here is also an MGS1 06 and of course as stated before, the very reliable DAES

Last yaer he told me he'd bring some MGS and actually he wanted to prepare them ready for street use with all the licenses and aproovals ( with some extra costs of cource)so it can get license plates

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So what's the aid, of Ti (titanium , right?) pushrods,what difference does t make ? :huh2:

 

Pushrods are reciprocating mass, just like valves & valve springs. The more mass involved, the greater the loads on the valvetrain [anyone here want to talk about cam failures?], the lower the rev limit due to float, etc. etc.

 

Guzzis & H-D pushrod v-twins use some seriously loooong pushrods; this makes them "whippy" & affects valve timing by incorporating imprecision at higher rpms [vs. a shorter pushrod of equal mass...] (FWIW, you wanna know what they call the ultimately short, stiff, light & precise pushrod? They're called "valve shims..." ;) )

 

Carbon-fiber ("CF" for short) is very light, & very stiff for it's mass: that's why you see it in use for all the nifty weight-saving racy bits. (Blame this stuff on the aerospace industry; they invented it, seeing as how they're always looking for lighter & stronger (aka, "stiffer") materials with which to build the next bazillion dollar apiece advanced tactical can o' whoopass...)

 

You could do the whole 'rod in titanium [element code "Ti" on the Periodic Table of Elements], and in fact, you can buy some Harley push-rods today in the stuff if you want. [NB: I keep wondering "how different are H-D rods from Guzzi vis-a-vis length & diameter? Would it be possible to buy some cheap Harley bits & throw'em in a Guzzi mill w/ minor adjustments? Yep, I'm a cheap b@st@rd! ;) ] - but why? It's not going to save that much mass vs. the alloy pushrods Guzzi has in there now [altho' for the same wt they could be made slightly stiffer, always a VGT in a pushrod...]

 

Now, CF can't be used as a wearing surface against a rocker or cam, [& neither should Ti, really], & moreover, the hot engine oil would have deleterious f/x on the epoxy matrix used to bind the CF strands into something useable. So, if you made a nifty CF tube sized just right to fit inside of a nice thin-walled tube of stiff 6Al-2V Ti alloy of correct dimensions, & then capped the whole thing off w/ some nifty hardened S7 steel ends for bearing on the cam & valve rockers [actually, I'd rather see roller ends for the cam & rocker, but that's another thread] and you'd have about as light & stiff a pushrod as you could realistically expect for a Guzzi short of getting really nuts & using Beryllium-Boron-Unobtanium-ridiculou$lyabsurdex$pen$ive esoterica...

:nerd:

 

Anyway, why does any of this matter at the rpms Guzzis spin at? Because for any given valve-train mass, you're going to have to run a valve-spring capable of keeping the valves from floating at the rpm at which you wish to run them. You can have 100# pushrods made of depleted uranium if you like, but you're going to need springs of about 1000#?/in to control them, which means all the power your motor puts out is going to be tied up in just keeping it running, & you'll have huge frictional losses from having to run the oil pressure at sufficiently high numbers/heavier wt. oil to keep the bearing surfaces in that valve-train from destroying themselves. Thus, lighter is better.

 

Ride on!

:mg:

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