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The problem is this wire has too much resistance, it has to carry the same 30+ Amps peak current as the Red positive wire from the battery back through the regulator to the other end of the stator winding. The Red positive wire can afford a few Volts drop, the Voltage regulator takes care of that but the Black Negative cannot afford any Voltage drop, half a Volt there is taken directly from the battery Voltage Reference. Remember the voltage regulator is hanging on a bracket that's not even grounded properly, just accidentally grounded where the paint scrubbed off. A short wire from the regulator case to a timing cover screw is like a massive cable through the mass of the engine/gearbox to the fat battery ground. It's only the earlier Ducati Energia regulators that need grounding, the later bikes have a direct connected regulator as shown, item (22)

https://mega.nz/file/ZEUy2JgJ#gQp31PKFtF2sxB5VUZMgG3Nvm_GC2xHhWl71XlR3tUk This is the video, I hope it works

LowRyter , I would flip the relay holder over , remove the relays and snug up ALL the terminal connectors & do the same thing with the fuse holder . Install the grease of your choice and see what happens. Make all your work deliberate and record all your step by step work .

thanks docc. I didn't know about that potential issue and will check it out.

From my notes, there are two coils in the Valeo solenoid (the old Bosch and the new Chinese starters all have 2 coils as well) One is 1.05 Ohms from the spade connector to chassis by Ohms law that will draw 12/1.05 = 11.4 Amps, this coil is powered up as long as the bike is cranking over. (I call this the Holding Coil, it can never close the solenoid just strong enough to hold it in place) The other coil is only 0.25 Ohms and goes from the spade connector to downstream of the main contact and across the armature. (I call this the Grunt Coil, it does most of the hard work if its wired right that is) The Grunt coil is turned off once the solenoid is engaged. The armature is so close to zero ohms you can ignore that so by Ohms law 12/0.25 = 48 Amps, add the 11.4 and you have 59.4 Amps, in reality you get about 40 Amps. On the later bikes you get Startus Interuptus, the wiring is not up to it so the Voltage drops and the relay just clicks. Solenoid Magnetic Strength: The two coils both have about 300 turns, the magnetic strength is Amps x Turns = 3,420 AT for the first coil, 14,400 AT for the second coil (4 x as strong if its wired right) BTW if you try to measure the currents you cannot do it with a multimeter, the heavy current only lasts for about 50 milliseconds, too quick for a digital multimeter, there are ways of doing it if anyones interested. I have helped dozens of owners with Startus Interuptus, some other models suffer worse e.g. the CARC models that the wire from the relay to the solenoid is really tiny, it would be ok if the current was only ~10 Amps but its a real choke point for 40 Amps, my 07 Griso operated 3 x as fast just by increasing the wire to a No 18. Of course on the later 8 Valve bikes the wiring is even worse, they choked the current through the switch again. I wrote a letter to Piaggio about the problem, they sent me an acknowledgement but I suspect they filed it in the trash.

Not V11... but at least they are spine frames!