HRC_V4

It has only been a few years since I "encouraged" him to ride something bigger than a 400cc (NSR250SP and a CB-1), so that fact he has two VFRs now (750 and 800) makes me happy! No Twingles, but he does work on his own bikes, so I think he will be fine!

I am planning on it, is it OK to invite non-Guzzi riding friends?

I am getting relocated to VA in a few months, so I think I will be in need of some good mountain roads by then, so I will do my best to make it. The upside is I will be doing more riding after I move.

During the off-season I sent off my speedo for a service, and also took the time to put the heavy gearbox oil in. Finally got her out today for a wonderful ride. I surprised me how much difference the heavy oil made for shifting. Speedo still bounces a little, but I can easily tell how fast I am going. I am glad motorcycle season is back!

I am now down to one washer, and I can spin the cable from the bottom of the gear drive. Rain comes today and things get cooler, but hopefully I can get a ride in this weekend and test it out.

OK, mine has 4... Old one has none. I took the gear drive off, it seemed ok, went ahead and cleaned and greased it. Put it back on, went for a ride, speedo went from jumping prior to vibrating to nothing after a couple of miles. Got home took it all apart and this is what I found; With the cable tight to the speedo, I could not turn the cable from the gear end, take the cable lose from speedo and the cable spins easily. Looked at the washers, took two out, now with the cable tight to the speedo I can spin the cable and see the speedo bounce. Put the gear on the end of the cable (not connected to the trans) and I can not spin the cable/gear, but it spins fine and seems tight when not connected to the cable. I guess I need to leave the gear connected to the cable, take loose from the speedo and see if it spins. All I can think is that I did not have the speedo end tight when I put the new cable on, the threads look a little rough, so maybe I get it crossed up and that let it work. I have the fairing off so I can make sure it is threaded correct. I ordered a new gear drive and I will take the other washer out and see what I find when I hook it all back up.

Quick question, how many washers on the Speedo side of the Speedo cable?

Yes, white face Veglia, do I need to pull it off the transmission to test the rotation?

I guess that must be the issue, bad contact with the key first on until it gets started and running, then it was fine until it cooled off again. Strange... Oh well, I will ride it again today, try to start it this morning with no fast idle and see how she does, I used a little yesterday morning, none after work. It could be just perception, but I think she is running a little smother too! This winter I will pull the Speedo out and send it off, it started jumping a few months ago, I put a new cable on it and it jumps less now, but I would like to get that fixed during the off season. Thanks all!!!

Someone is going to have to explain to me how relays can cause hard starting, started good this morning, started great this afternoon. Who knew, besides you all.

OK, key off I have 12.7 volts with charger unplugged for 48 hours. Air and Engine temp the same 21 C. I went ahead and put all new relays in. She fired up much better, still not perfect, but better than it was. With engine warming up, per Guzzidag, I have 13.3-13.5 volts at idle ~1,100 rpms. around 2.5k rpms I max out voltage at 13.94. I think the lower than 14 volts is due to the new style regulator. Max voltage does not bother me, voltage at idle is a nice surprise. I will ride her to work in the morning and see how she does.

OK, let me dig into this again this weekend. I cleaned all the grounds (added one from the front timing cover to the batter connection at the back) when I put in the new regulator. I will measure with Guzzidiag and my volt meter. I bought the good ones, I have them under the seat for spares, but so far no issues other than cold start, so I left it alone. I can pop them in real quick.

I have the new style relays, but only one is installed, I guess I could install the others. Charging system is good. I installed a mosfet regulator, at idle I am in the high 12 volt range, above 2k rpms, I am 13.5+, but I only max out about 13.8 or 13.9, not matter the rpm. Battery is always close to full charge when done riding, so I think I am good. Other than cold starts, the bike runs great, hot starts are very quick. I will try a start then pull the plugs and see if they are wet. With only 5k miles after 15 years, a leaking injector is possible. Shady Valley is fun, needs another repave on the Bristol side. I get there and out early, avoid the crowds, 100 miles round trip if I just go to the store. I think the bike traffic has dropped recently, or it could be that I am not going as much.

I can supply after ride beer, Ridgewood BBQ, and even a motorcycle to ride if you don't want that far of a ride... Maybe a bed too if my dog likes you...

On the second TPS adjustment, I discounted the throttle rod, backed the stop out and loosened the fast idle screw. I set it to 153, I opened and closed it several times, some slowly, other times I let it snap back, each time it stayed in spec although it moved the reading a little each time. Mine is a 2001, someone already replaced the fuel cut off with a manual one. I will plug Guzzidiag back in and make sure everything is getting picked up.

I keep it on a tender, so voltage is good, plus, just put a new regulator in it a month or two ago. It actually started doing this after the first tune up (my mistake was not disconnecting the fast idle the first time, and I did not have the cables for the Guzzidiag), although on the first morning in the high 40's (f) it fired first time, right up. I lived with it while on the Arkansas trip, but it would start after about 6-8 revolutions, now with the most recent tune up and the CO Trim adjustment, it has gotten worse. Warm starts are great, but cold, or even after 3 or 4 hours, it is tough. I have dial gauge vacuum meters I have used to balance them. Chuck, I look at this as half the fun, I love working on them. Although I did take the RC30 to Shady Valley over the weekend, 100 miles of great Autumn weather and great roads on a motorcycle I was not designed to ride...

Scud, Agreed, should be the same. I have used a little input from fast idle and a lot of input from fast idle, either way I get no attempt to start. With no throttle input, she chokes and coughs a little, a sight crack of the throttle and she picks up just enough to start. Tom, not with the engine kill switch, but with the key I have tried that too, turn it on, listen and wait, turn it off then back on, listen and wait. Did not seem to make a difference. Two thoughts I have had, maybe play with the air bypass screws, a 1/4 in then a 1/4 out to see if that makes a difference, I have them at the 1 turn out right now. Roy, not sure if this would be the slight lean fix if I went in a 1/4 turn. Other thought I have is I have a slow leak on one of the injectors, if she sits long enough she dumps fuel that is fouling a plug on start, enough attempts to start, or starting on 1 cylinder and she cleans it out. I guess I could do a few attempts and pull a plug and see if it is wet.

I am probably 15-20 revolutions to get it started, 3 to 4 attempts at 5 each. If I use the fast idle, It sounds like I loose spark, no attempt to start at all. Idle is set by tach about 1,100 rpms, Guzzidiag says my tach reads low, so maybe about 1,200 rpm, I can double check that. I will keep trying to crack the throttle a little to get it started, after it starts I can use the fast idle to pick rpms up until she is a little warmer. When warm, she starts on 2nd or 3rd revolution.

OK, I have done the whole tune-up again, plus I replaced the crank/cam sensor (slightly melted) and she is running a whole lot better, also put another turn in the pre-load, might be good with full bags, but a bit much for commuting. But my issue now is she is hard to get started cold. She acts like she wants to start after a few revolutions, but any use of the high idle makes her less likely to start. I end up having to crack the throttle manually to get her to fire and run, even then I might have to do it a couple of times to get her to stay running. Once running she is fine. Any thoughts one this?

OK, finally got the cables and time to play with it, CO Trim was set at 30, positive, I turned it back to 0, seems to be a little better, got dark so I did not ride too much, I will give it another ride later this week. Arkansas was good, love the Guzzi suspension, the running issues was a little annoying, but did not hamper my fun. A link to one ride, this was a cool down ride. The time before I figured out the kick stand drags first in left handers.

Thanks all, I will go back and maybe tighten the valves a little, see if that helps. I will also pull the idle mixture screws and clean them. The rear shock may need to be looked at then, I have the luggage on there now. But until that point, I was very impressed with the suspension, we have been running some good speeds over some less than smooth roads and it has been great, I am very confident with it. I am running the oil dipstick temp gauge.

I just replaced the one connector and all is right with the fuse box. No more hot fuse. The Arkansas/Missouri Road Kill and Construction tour is going good, about 1,000 miles of good roads and an excellent variety of road kill and construction. A few more questions about my V11; I set the tps adjustment to spec. but at steady throttle I get a pop every now and then (once every 10 miles). and I am getting stumbling when it gets hot (100+ C). Under heavy load below 4k rpm, I get something that sounds like spark knock, no really way to adjust timing, I am running 91-93 octane ethanol free gas. During a "pass" yesterday, once I leveled off speeds, I got a slow wobble that the "passie" saw, speed was "high". Any thoughts?

Yes, still the South, just looking for some new roads to ride. The big fuse holder looks like the one that came with my MOSFET regulator. Did you by pass the fuse in the fuse box, or add it and make a fuse chain? By passing it would be easy, I am guessing it is right from the RR to the fuse box, to the battery? Honestly, the rest of the fuse box looks good, the failing one actually looks good and the contact and at the connector to wire crimp, but the extra crimp going through the insulation looks to be the issue, maybe a little moisture got into it. Once I cut it out I will post a picture of it.

Thanks for the invite, and I would, but that is during my big trip, I am heading out to the Ozarks with some friends for a week of riding in an area I have never ridden before. All the other wires look pretty good, I am hoping this will fix the hot fuse issue, if not I will peal away the wrap on the battery side of the same wire and see what it looks like.

I got the MOSFET in and wired up, seems to be a bit better than what I had, 12.8-12.9 at idle, I get to more volts quicker, but not as much at the higher RPMs, which is what I read about it. I was still getting a hot main fuse, took the fuse block off and turned it upside down, the wire from the fuse to the battery has corrosion where the connector is crimped to the insulation. I have some connectors ordered and will replace it when they show up, then maybe I can ride it again... Oh well, I need to get all this worked out before my big trip later this year.