cycles4fun

I purchased a MY ECU for my V1100 Lemans directly from Cliff Jefferies and really never embraced it and lost interest with the project. It came loaded with a recommended map from Cliff as a starting point from his personal V1100 sport and that's as far as I got. These are fully programmable ECU's which you can control all aspects of fuel and ignition delivery. Far superior to a power commander and also allows control over the ignition system. I believe I paid around 600.00 shipped and it's like new. Make me a reasonable offer. You can read more here . https://www.myecu.biz/MyECU/index.htm Call Mike 510-861-3086 or email.

Mike the bike looks fantastic! Nice to hear its back together again. Believe me I know the feeling! Mike Sorge

I'm looking for a set of throttle bodies with cables and throttle for a 2002 Lemans or similar. This is for a Tonti project bike I've been working on. Actually I already have the throttle bodies however all the linkage parts have been stripped off the throttle shafts so I either need all the parts seperately (good luck) or complete T-bodies. The cable and throttle assembly would be great but not required. I'm not on that much so for a faster response please contact Mike at cycles4fun@sbcglobal.net Thanks

Thank you for your reply. I spoke with my local MG dealer today and thank goodness they do offer an oil control ring seperately. Its around 50.00 which is really steep but much cheaper then the 130.00 they want for a complete set for ONE piston. Its available, ordered, and I should have it in a week. I will also check the site you mention for the parts manual. thanks again. Mike Hello, just hopped over to MPH Cycles website and the parts manual is there! Awesome , Thanks again. I love this Forum!

Thank you for your reply. I spoke with my local MG dealer today and thank goodness they do offer an oil control ring seperately. Its around 50.00 which is really steep but much cheaper then the 130.00 they want for a complete set for ONE piston. Its available, ordered, and I should have it in a week. I will also check the site you mention for the parts manual. thanks again. Mike

Hello, I do not have a parts catalog and wondering if anyone knows the part number for piston rings on a 2003 V1100 lemans. Unfortunately during assembly (bonehead move, don't ask) I broke one oil control ring and need a new one or a new set for one piston. Is there any chance they offer the oil control ring as a seperate part? I found this part number, 05061030, from a Euro website and and its listed as an 92mm oil control ring for a Breva, Griso, Cali Classic and wondering if its the same. Thanks Mike

Hello, I have been waiting for a good Lemans crankshaft and bearings as well as a few other bits and pieces. I'm definitely interested in the engine if its still good and the price is fair. Please give me a call when you get a chance and perhaps we can work something out. Thanks Mike 510-651-7439

Sorry gentelmen, I just realized I have asked this question previously "crankshaft interchangability" but really never got an answer. Perhaps someone has a new take on this topic. Just off the tio of my head the stroke is the same and they both use a Ducati alternator. Ipso facti they should be interchangeable. Bearing sixes have been the same since God was a boy. Pete Thanks Pete, Yea I figured the same just did not want to be stuck with a boat anchor of a crank. I have not weighed each to compare. I guess If I want to play it safe I should just get the bearings and get it done. Like most Guzzi guys I'm a bit of a tight wad so always looking for a bargain!

Sorry gentelmen, I just realized I have asked this question previously "crankshaft interchangability" but really never got an answer. Perhaps someone has a new take on this topic.

Hey guys I need an expert opinion. Other then balancing, Is a crank from a V1100 California and a V1100 Lemans the same. The answer is obvious as the part numbers are different, however if its only a minor balance change this could easily be corrected with rebalancing. I understand the pistons are likely a different weight which will require a different balance. I need a good crank for my 2003 Lemans motor or undersize bearings and a remachining. I can get a good motor for just a bit more then it would cost to rebuild my crank plus I get all the other bonus parts. If the crank is significantly different then its obviously not worth it. I dont mind rebalancing it as I'm going with different pistons anyway. Thanks for your speedy reply.

Interesting idea, however the crank main bearings are machined aluminum. Rebabbiting would not apply in this application. Actually after looking at these it looks as though the center machined section is pressed into the housing assembly. I bet you could press out the old "bearing" machine up a new one and press it back together. This is only my cheap tight a-- speculation thinking out loud. In any event I dont have the tooling to do it and even if you could it would likely be cheaper to simply replace the bearings with new parts. Mayby I'll have some fun with old bearings and see if its plausable.

Long story, see my post "BEWARE- clean out your crankcase breather". Really a major bummer. I can easily remachine my crank journals (rod journal is fine)and use 1st undersize bearings but it would be cheaper to replaced the crank with a good used one. Plus these cranks are nitrided and from what I have been told turning it .010" (.025mm) would minimize the effectiveness of the nitriding. The last crank I nitrided cost me 300.00 bucks! Ouch

I'm looking for a crankshaft for my 2003 V1100 Lemans motor. I came across a 2003 V1100EV crank and looked it up in the parts catalog and noted the two have different numbers. The only thing different I could think of may be a different balance factor due to the heavier flywheel of the EV or perhaps a different weight of the lower compression pistons. Does anyone have a definitive answer? If it is a balance issue could I not just have it rebalanced to my pistons / rods? Thanks in advance

Thanks, yes I do plan to pull the plug and clean it out. I have to re-machine the front and rear journals but the rod journal is fine. Its funny that the blasting material only damaged the aluminum surfaces and then the roughed up aluminum proceded to damage the metal material spinning within it. The rod bearings look absolutly fine. The real bummer is the oil pump surface on the block and the cam bearings. I can re-machine the oil pump surface .005-.010" cleaning it up and then shim out the sprocket back out for proper chain alignment but not sure what to do with the cam bearings. I may have a line on a new block from a dealer friend. It really sucks as I was so maticulous with this motor going over every detail and never thought to check the frame! Another lession learned I guess.

Here is a long winded dissertation to a big problem and a very important tip to remember. PLEASE READ!!!! I recently swapped my lemans MK4 engine with a beautiful low mileage motor from a 2003 V-1100 lemans. It came out perfect and ran wonderful. My old rebuilt motor suffered an oil pressure loss while in route to the 2008 Malibu rally that I never really found the root cause for. I checked all the obvious stuff and it all looked fine. The oil light started coming on at idle and got increasing worse until it basically destroyed itself. That motor lasted around 1200 miles! Instead of going through the motor again I decided to swap in a late model low mileage lemans motor sold to me from a Guzzi dealer friend. I guess I figured the oil pressure loss issue was related to the rebuild and figured my problems would be behind me with the new late model motor. I used the factory ECU for the ignition system and temporarily fitted the 40mm delortos while I source the remaining EFI parts I still need for the conversion to EFI. Ran the motor about 500 miles changed the oil (Mobil 1 V-twin SG rated) and ran it an additional 6-700 miles without incident. Packed down the bike last Thursday and headed out to the national rally in Oregon with a couple companions. Life is good.......so I thought. About 175 miles into the trip we stopped for a break and I noticed my oil pressure lamp was flickering at idle, and was off with a little more revs. Oh no not again, can't be! My head was spinning, could be a possible faulty sender, loose filter, stuck relief valve, or bigger problems like before. A quick check on the stick and it was full. I let it cool down a bit and the lamp remained off on the restart. Humm, what should I do now? I ran it an easy 10 miles and pulled over to check it again and now the lamp was on steady at idle. Crap! My ride was over. Trailer it back home, pulled the pan and found the filter was fine, pressure relief valve was closed and nothing obvious was noted. I then interrogated the sump and noted small chunks of gritty debris. I could not think of any source of it other than the cam chain block but this would not be gritty! This crap did not come from this motor. About then the light went on! Oh crap the breather, I never thought to check or clean it. I disconnected the breather return hoses from the heads and aimed the open hoses into a clear bottle. I then blew compressed air into the large breather inlet and the crap started flying out. Oh no!!!!!!!!I was feeling sick at that point. The grit was fine sand like material and I believe it was trapped glass blasting material that for some reason recently decided to let go. I powder coated the frame a decade or so ago and do not remember ever cleaning out the frame breather!!!!!Perhaps the synthetic oil I started recently using loosened it up. In any event all the aluminum bearing surfaces are now nicely sanded rendering them useless! BIG BIG oversight on my behalf. So the moral to this story, clean the breather! Yours is likely clean as a whistle but you won’t know until you check. If you have powder coated your frame DO NOT start your motor without checking it first. You have been warned!

I painted my Astralites with a high end automotive paint as the anodizing became very dull and I did not like the look. Although they were prepaired properly the paint is no where as durable as the powdercoating job on my triumph 675 wheels. The Astralites have a silicone type sealer inbetween the two halfs and I was concerned the heat would possibly damage the sealer thus the painting over the powder. If you dont like the look of your anodized wheels, go for the powdercoating (asuming you can get the color your looking for) over the paint as in the long run you will be happy you did so. B/R...Mike

This is an excellent company! I retrofitted my Tonti with their updated charging system and pound for pound its the best mod I ever did! I constantly was fighting battery charging issues for years, especially during low RPM commuting and with the new parts it transformed the charging system. 14.0 volts just off idle and the light never comes on. A very reputable company for sure. BTW....I have been running the stock 2003 ECU for Ign on my carb equipped V1100 Tonti (Mk 4 lemans) and it works fine. I do not have anything connected to the TPS connector. I do have some spitback during idling that I cant seem to correct even with rediculously large pilot jets. I have the leaner euro slides in my 40mm delortos and was going to try the richer USA slides but I have decided to scrap the carbs and go with the EFI. I suppose it could be timing issues as well. I'm hoping the EFI with the factory ignition map will be fairly easy to sort out and should be very reliable, compansate for cold start, altitude changes, have nice easy throttle pull, ect. I hope I'm right. I always think about how few problems we encounter on the the high mileage EFI equipped cars I have been working on for years and this should be no different. I know the Guzzi system is crude by automotive standards but the Delortos are dinosours for sure. Kehin FCR's may be an entirely different story , but are way too much money. I'm sure I'll be looking to this forum for more input soon!!!!

Hello gentelmen, I'm looking for a throttle assembly and cable as removed from a 2003 Lemans or like kind part. Thanks Mike cycles4fun@sbcglobal.net

17 x 3.5" Astralite with 120/70

PJ1 makes an excellent Satin black engine and case paint which is good up to 500 F. It matchs the finish on my 87 lemans SE perfectly and really lasts. Its called Fast Black. Copy and past this link into your browser. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_cata...jsp?skuId=30296 Good luck Mike

I'm a shop Foreman in a very busy highly respected and reputable new car dealership. In these times you have to run very lean to stay competitive and profitable. Our QC program has suffered as we simply have little available time to do it anymore. As a Foreman I'm very busy driving with customers listening to their concerns, dealing with problem cars, interfacing with factory support, keeping our equipment functional, providing Technical reports to the factory, all while still trying to be somewhat productive and banking some hours. Recently we tried another approach. It seems Technicians really never have to face our real boss's, our customers. They dont get to feel the heat and do the dance with our customers when things go wrong. Technicians by nature do not want to appear as hacks to their peers however. During the week I keep a log of all comebacks or workmanship issues that myself or the Service Advisor encounter. We have a spread sheet that I email to all the Techs as well as the Service Advisors at the end of each week. When a mistake is made their Tech number, which is normally green, turns either yellow (single X) or or Red (double X) and when clicked on a comment box pops up where I give all the details for everyone to view. Single X is used for minor infractions and double X for unacceptable workmanship or oversights. Sometimes this results in Write-ups and counceling as well. I have had Techs go well above and beyond to avoid a "double X" as they call it. And when one Tech ends up on the sheet the heckling he gets from the other Techs is far more painful then what the customer could ever deliver. This policy has been in effect for approx 4 months and seems to have helped our workmanship issues greatly and proven very effective. And when things do go wrong you step up to the plate and do the right thing for the customer. I guess thats why we continue to be very busy in a troubled economy. Food for thought for you shop owners out there. Mike

Thanks guys, as if I did not have anything better to do with my time! I'm so greatful of Greg Bender for putting this site together. I just spent the better part of 3 hours going over all the manuals and such and downloading exactly what I needed and a bunch more! This V11 Lemans forum has to be the best enthuiast forum going. I always get insightful, intelligent information delivered in a gentlemanly like fasion. This forum should be the model for any enthuiast site. Thanks again! Mike