emry
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Posts posted by emry
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Start with new plugs as gstallons suggested. If that doesn't work then fresh fuel. Keep it simple at first and don't over think it.
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Just a note folks, Scura's came with Ohlins front and rear. Very different construction than the Marz as used on the other models. So setting notes probably won't transfer. But even the OEM set up of the Ohlins was horrible so don't feel like we got anything special.
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You already know you need a good battery. Testing with a bad battery is moot. With a poor source voltage anything down stream will always be suspect, because it doesn't have its requirements met.
Good battery. Then test. No searches.
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2002 Scura ZGUKRAKR02M114895
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Wow. Yes, modern charging technology could be applied here. But remember that the generator on the Guzzi's produces AC current, which the poor low cost reg/rec then tries to keep with in limits after rectifying for for a PB/acid battery. Which are pretty resilient to abuse overall. You could use your DC-DC solution down stream of the current reg/rec but it probably wont get you much net positive results due to the poor AC-DC component in the system.
Can a better AC-DC reg/ref be designed that could incorporate functions like you DC-DC converter? Of course. Just time and money.
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The seals in the MC can go bad when sitting. When you grab the lever the seal doesn't and the lever just pulls back without pressurizing the rest of the system. A few of my race bikes do this when getting pulled out. Sometimes a good flush will clear debris that caused it and sometimes the MC needs new seals to fix.
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A Sport 1100, Centaro, and Daytona crossover will not fit a V11 or vise versa. With the Sport 1100 crossover mounting in the same support location as the V11 the headers are about 5in. (125mm) short.
I just made this mistake on Ebay due to a bad listing and am trying to resolve it.
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JB Quik... for those surprise oil leaks..
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Pretty sure that is it. I didn't see anything in my shed. So for $6 give it a go. I used carb cleaner to removed "bubbled" paint then sprayed away. Haven't touched in in a decade.
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I know this was done here before, maybe it got lost with one of the reboots. I didn't like the HD paint, the texture was finer than the OEM Guzzi stuff. Best match I found was actually one of the Rustoleum Textured. Cheap, matched fantastic, easy to find in the US, and has actually lasted a long time. I honestly couldn't tell you where I painted and where I didn't when looking at the bike. I have to see if I still have an old can around for the specific one I used.
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AMP Superseal 1.0. Make sure you get the correct keying, there are 3 different ones if I recall.
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Have fun everyone. Good thing we are not working on improving fire, we all would have food poisoning. Enjoy!
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Why didn't they utilize all 3 phases instead of 1 when they built these charging systems ?
Simple answer. "Cost down".
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1. Put a large hose clamp on the filter. 2. Use a turn signal in place of the fuse to troubleshoot. This article is old, but so is electricity. https://www.yamaha-motor-university.com/ymu/motorsports/advertising/YMU%20Service%20Limit/docs/States%20of%20a%20Wire%20December%202013.pdf
Plenty of help for wiring problem here.
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Normally bicycles don't exceed the speeds needed for the "counter-steer" dynamic to be in affect. This is based on chassis geometry, contact patch, traction, and speed. Let us not bring tricycle or two-wheel leading dynamics into this. CoG becomes a vastly more important component with those things.
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I bought a MyECU because of this, the other tools were not as prevalent back then. Stalling at stop lights made the original ECU useless during commuting.
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This is up in my office, but there is 3 more images and the titles are slightly different. Give me a day or two and I'll post it. It brings me back to the real world really quick when things go awol.
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FAKE NEWS!!!!
Sorry. Just voicing an ignorant view point.
In reality the video does illustrate a simple principle but also shows some other serious rider flaws. Like rolling off throttle and grabbing a big handful of front brake. If you really want to increase your skill as a rider, sign up for a few trackdays or go racing. You will quickly learn what your motorcycle is really capable of. You can train your self to trust your tires (with in their limits of course), countersteer, and give it MORE throttle (stabilizes the chassis and transfer load to the rear tire). Of course all of this is opposite of what our untrained brain wants us to do.
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If i read the original post out loud it is all about the horn to me.
Cause, effect, where to start looking for a problem. -
I get stuck at the third and fourth sentence
I hope everyone here has a excellent new year!
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Roy, it has nothing to do with the battery or the charging system, let alone the changes in resistance to the starting circuit during pull-up. A fused circuit will only move so much current, based on the total circuit resistance, not what the power supply can provide. The problem occurs when the horn button is pressed, how about we focus on that problem and the voltage drops that happen therein. Your wiring diagrams here are awesome and your advice on this site is always outstanding. I wasn't really challenging your aptitude nor trying to dive into discourse about ohms law.
I didn't take the time to look at a diagram in this case, but my advice was based on experience as a long time technician.
To the OP, disconnect the horn. Start it, and press the horn button. What happens? If everything works like it should, replace the horn. While there can be other issues this is a quick and simple starting point.
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What the battery can put out is illrelevent, the total circuit resistance is the important consideration. If the fuse has 0.3Ω, the relay 0.8Ω, the button 0.4Ω and the horn 0.1Ω, what happens in that fused circuit.
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Sounds like a horn driver that is stuck. When it gets stick it causes a direct short ( or near that) and pulls the voltage on the circuit low.
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I little side project I was involved in. It has been neglected unfortunately.
The main page has a few other articles if you are curious. https://www.yamaha-motor-university.com/ymu/motorsports/advertising/YMU%20Service%20Limit/index.html
What's the trick to removing the Alternator nut?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Agreed. The small amount of AL there is probably well within the tolerance from MG for the rotating assembly. But get a proper impact, air, electric, or battery, for next time and get the proper puller. Don't use a screwdriver to try and pry it away from the case.