emry
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Posts posted by emry
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02 Scura - plastic.
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The clutch sounds like a Steampunk Drum Band.
I love letting Harley riders hear the symphony that ushers from my clutch. Nothing better than watching them look down in concern trying to locate what broke just as I happened to pull up. Priceless, every single time.
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How does it compare to the MT07 (pretty sure that is the other bike in the picture) ?
I think I would like the the road no matter which bike I was on. -
This post just about covers it.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16474&hl=ethanol&do=findComment&comment=176922
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Your threaded rod is not a stock part, looks like it came from Menards (northern USA hardware store, for you non-US folks). Notice in docc's photo the 90 degree angles, you want yours to look like that.
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It won't fix my worn out shoes.
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Pasta science or not, motoguzznix and bjorn are right. Ignition tuning is the best method of reducing "knock". Knock or detonation occurs after the ignition event, change the ignition event and presto, smiling happy riders. Short of a decent datalogger the tape on the bar method works, not recommended on modern roads in most locales though.
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Detonation has much more to do with combustion chamber shape and mixture swirl than the actual ratio. Considering these "hemi" heads are new technology for the early 1900's is it not a surprise Although the "pent-roof" has been around almost as long it seem to work better
. You can tune around it but it takes some work. Yamalube Engine Med is Techron without the gas added, use as directed. My Scura knocked its way home from the dealership.-
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Yamalube Internal Engine Cleaner. A little hard to find at dealers (they can only order en mass and is intended for service departments only) but it is designed to survive combustion and clean the exhaust side also. Turns single cylinder Road Stars into twins again, inside of 15 mintues. Do not use near populated areas. Change your oil after application, for real. Yamalube EngineMed works well for regular combustion carbon removal (maintenance) but it wont clean exhaust or heavily deposit chambers (it is Techron in a concentrate form).
I don't like Seafoam. That is for boat hulls. Mineral spirits is cheaper and does as much inside an engine.
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Nice, i wish you lived in my neighborhood. You clearly have more energy than me.
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Its a little hard to make adjustments to fueling when you have to play the "I think thats about right" game. I dont think the OP is to concerned about idle speed.
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I would setup the ardunio to count interrupts of the falling signal on the ground side of the injector. Easy to program and make a shielding circuit so the input pin doesn't get damaged. Personally I don't like looking while riding, I prefer logs then I can review at my leisure with a beer later. You can get a shield and log to an sd card easily depending on the board you are using.
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Pretty easy, but why not just count the tach pulse out of your MyECU though or use injector grounding? The math is alot easier. The correct rpm and TPS angle is available in both the Optimizer and its App, so am I missing the point of this?
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To produce over 12 volts a battery only needs the smallest surface area in all of its 6 cells, battery voltage is the sum of the cells which are in series. The ability to produce adequate amperage is based on the area of active material in each cell. At initial key on our bike only requires about 10amps (that is a guess....) but when the starter is activated it will jump to 150amps (also a guess...). A damaged battery (not enough surface area) will quickly deplete the active areas, as the battery voltage drops the starter solenoid or will de-power, and the battery will quickly recover its active areas and the process repeats. Sulfation is the most common cause both in old and "new" batteries. The term new is always used relative to when we buy the battery, but should be relative to when it was produced.
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Many manufacturers have stopped using replaceable fuel filter. They are now built into the fuel pump module.
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Well, if you took it apart "just to look" and the wear pattern is good, then the shims etc were all correct. Reassembly with the same will work, no measurement needed. If the crown wheel and bearing moved just a bit out of the carrier during disassembly it may take more than a whack with a rubber mallet to reseat them. Think big and brass, or a press. That noise in the video is common on dry units, but back-lash is a concern as this would indicate that not everything has found its way back to were it was. Running a diff with no backlash will quickly overheat the teeth and lead to chipping and other increased wear characteristics.
When you used the rubber mallet did you have that stick of butter there, that could be an issue?
(Sorry, just what came to mind when I saw the photo, I must be hungry.)
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If it isn't leaking don't touch it. No sense in tempting fate. When I nicked my seal doing the front cover the leak was quickly apparent. Didn't even have to ride it.
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That would be a whole tub of grease on the long side of the swing arm... ha ha!Something I have done with blind hole bearings in the past was to fill the cavity with grease and then use a bolt (with the threads cut off) or steel dowel that fits as snug as possible with the ID of the inner race. Smack the bolt with a big hammer. The force is transferred through the grease and pushes the bearing out. I haven't tried it in this application though.
Ah yeah, thanks Andy, I get it now. When I think of a blind hole, the bearing sits right on back surface. That only takes a little grease, pretty common in Japanese transmissions. I didn't realize that the "blind" is way down where the shaft passes though. Nevermind, carry on as usual.
If I was faced with this I would pry out the seal, use a TIG torch with no filler to melt a few spots in the outer race (in between the ball bearings) then a slide hammer it out. I have yet to run into a bearing that didn't pop right out with that treatment.
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I took mine to a local gent who had slide hammers, all the kit, the lot and in the end it took grinding, heating and pure brute force to extract them. The one on the shaft side was, by far, the worst to get out. He said he couldn't recall a worse bearing extraction job and he wasn't a young man. Those bearings are very wide: a lot of friction to overcome and in a blind hole too. Shame they're so short lived.
I have a spare swing arm too. Just a thought: if I get started now, I might have the bearings out of that one and the lot re-coated in time for when the bearings in the current one go kaput!
Haha, sounds like a walk in the park
I changed the plan a bit. I bought some high strength M16 bolts (12.9). I will try to weld these onto the inner bearing race and use it as a puller. At work i found a suitable piece of steel which i will mill down in order to act as a support to pull out the bearings. I hope either the bearing comes out (with or without heat) or the inner race will break. In the last case this allows me to weld the outer race and remove it.
Pictures of the complete set-up will follow (soon I hope
)***to a moderator: can u change the title of this topic into ''Rear drive needle bearing and swing arm restoration'' ? Thanks.
Something I have done with blind hole bearings in the past was to fill the cavity with grease and then use a bolt (with the threads cut off) or steel dowel that fits as snug as possible with the ID of the inner race. Smack the bolt with a big hammer. The force is transferred through the grease and pushes the bearing out. I haven't tried it in this application though.
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You'll get it. Persistence wins many wars.
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Get two cranks seals. You have already screwed up the installed one, you might not get the first replacement, just... right... so that way you have another available while the process is fresh in your head. Saves you a bit of waiting for the mail.
After several gaskets on my timing cover failed early on during the warranty period, I finally just removed the gasket and used Hylomar (if I recall) in its place. Hasn't leaked in the past 10 years.
Yamabond 6B would also work well, it is made for metal to metal contact and is black so it will not stand out as a funny line.
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I will confirm that the "mystery" part is out of a set of KYB dirt bike forks. It is part of the mid valve assembly, both Yamaha and Kawasaki use those.
As for your missing preload spacer you can make one from PVC tubing. This is a fairly common procedure for adjusting spring preload on forks that have no preload adjusters. While I don't have a sample to give you a starting length, you can get close with a little quick measuring. Normally you would need to compress the spring approximately 25mm or so to get the cap on. You may have to adjust that length after you check the sag.
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I sure someone can find the links faster than me, somewhere here KiwiRoy posted some very nice diagrams of the starting circuit. There are some issues that can cause the starter solenoid to stay in its "pull - up" state which can cause the a fuse to blow. As for multiple blown fuses, time to do a good clean up of the harness. Fuses rarely blow on their own will power. But it is very likely that they all ganged up to protest a singular event.
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Another observation, the vacuum port, the small fitting at the bottom facing forward, is bent upwards. Perhaps a full tank of gas and a not so gentle resting position? While I would check the other suggestions first, and the main sealing o-rings are farther up in the assembly, it could be a possibility that the bending has impaired the sealing or the internal sealing of the regulator?
Is this oil change really necessary ?
in Technical Topics
Posted
I would have posted what GuzziMoto said, but he beat me to it.