dp.guzzi Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 I would appreciate it it someone would post a picture of where the voltage regulator is and any information on how to get to it. Does the tank gave to be removed? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 I think you will find it mounted between the horns. It may be bolted to the horn bracket which is a poor ground, consider running a separate wire from the case to a timing cover screw. It's very important to have a good ground. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dp.guzzi Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 This is what I see between the horns: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 This is what I see between the horns: image.jpeg That's the fuel pump. A few V11 were delivered with the pump there which also may relocate the fuel filter (which is typically under the tank on top of the spine frame). You might trace the two yellow wires that comes out of the top of the stator cover and they will lead you to the regulator. If your fuel filter is beside the frame on the left above the cylinder, then your regulator may well be under the tank on top of the frame . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dp.guzzi Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 Aha! Here is a picture taken from the left side looking up and forward. That must be it, right? If so, then the tank must come off. Now I need advice on removing the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dp.guzzi Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 The picture came out rotated. It should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise. The actual top of the picture is on the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 That's it. So, it's on the right side below the tank and behind the subframe? The Tank Off Maintenance Checklist has some advice and a couple links on tank removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 when you get the tank off, inspect the area around the steering head (under side of tank) be sure it's not rubbing a hole thru from a frame crossmember.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dp.guzzi Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 OK, got the tank off. Unfortunately we have people coming over tonight, I smell like gasoline, and I have to work tomorrow. Good thing I have other motorcycles. This may take a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dp.guzzi Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 I got the voltage regulator (VR) out. The picture on the left is it. It has a double yellow, a black and white and a red and green. The green goes to the battery negative terminal. I found a melted wire connector (on the the double yellow wire). The new one is on the right. It has a double yellow and a black and white. It doesn't have a red and green, but instead it has two reds that join together to a single pin (I will post a picture of it below). In other words, there is no ground. There was a wire on the right side bolt that held the original VR down inb place. Is this a ground? What should I do about not having a negative lead to the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dp.guzzi Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 This is the end of the double red from th new VR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 The yellow connectors can be replaced but be prepared to change them out again, butt splices are more secure. These regulators have to have a good ground connection to the case. A short No 12 from the case to a timing cover bolt is far better than a No 8 all the way to the battery. Have you determined your old regulator is U/S, perhaps it's just the yellow connectors. Sent from my shoe phone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dp.guzzi Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 This is the melted connector from the double yellow that looks like it comes out of the alternator. I did not remove the insulation; this is the way it looked. I wonder what caused the insulation to go away. I wonder if the melting means that the alternator output it too high. Opinions? Another bit of info: about a year ago I got stuck 300 miles from home, and a dealer replaced the stator. Anyway, it sounds like I should put a ground strap on the voltage regulator base and another one on the battery negative. I can do this, but I'm not sure which bolts to ground it to. It would be great if one of you would post a picture of which bolts you have used. I know it sounds simple, but I am a real amateur. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 The insulation melted because there was too much resistance in the joint, doesn't take much. Put the ground under any of the 6mm timing cover screws, the Aluminum engine case will make a perfect conductor to the large ground cable at the gearbox. Sent from my shoe phone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dp.guzzi Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 What do you think of this: 30 amp fuse between alternator and voltage regulator. Or as an alternative, a circuit breaker? There are 2 yellow wires from alternator. If I just fuse one is it good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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