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Unpacking the cans... don't bother-

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photo 1

 

Before you start this, I have to say that it is probably a better idea to just go out and buy some other cans. I'm waiting on some TI cans from MG, but the dealer says they might take a while to arrive. I also got a spare set of cans on ebay for $75 so I decided to tinker.

 

That said... here you go.

 

BUT WAIT!!!!!!!!

 

READ THIS...

 

OH NO! I just talked to my welder and he suggested a different way to do this that is a million times easier....

 

Remove the sleeve just as I did, but then just cut a 3 x 6 inch opening in the SIDE of the muffler can near the rear. Then you can pull out the packing and the welder with have a simple job to weld the removed piece back in without all the alignment and tweaking that cutting the end off entails!

1_Cans_on_bike.jpg

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photo 2

 

You need one of thos little star, security bits to unscrew the bolts.

2_rear_cap_off.jpg

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photo 3

 

3. I found that tapping on the 1" exhauset outlet with a block of

 

wood to cushion the lip worked better that trying to use the wood

 

to tap the main plate surface. There is white fiberglass layered

 

between the outside of the stainless can and the inside of the

 

alum sheath. Do not get the fiberglass on you, it is very

 

irritating. Use masking tap to cover and contain the glass as it

 

becomes exposed.

3_Tapping_core_out_of_alum_sheath.jpg

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photo 4

 

4. and 5. In these photos you can see the 2 welds you are going to have to cu through. The outer perimeter weld is easy to reach with a hand grinder. The inner perimeter weld is much harder to reach. Note the angle the inner pipe intercepts the outer plate. After having seen this on my first can I was able to do a cleaner job on the second.

4_Grind_almost_complete.JPG

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photo 5

 

4. and 5. In these photos you can see the 2 welds you are going to have to cu through. The outer perimeter weld is easy to reach with a hand grinder. The inner perimeter weld is much harder to reach. Note the angle the inner pipe intercepts the outer plate. After having seen this on my first can I was able to do a cleaner job on the second.

5_grind_complete.JPG

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Text for photo 7 above...

 

7. I found that using a screwdriver to pry out the packing was much quick and easier that pulling it out with pliers. (3-4 minutes vs. 30)

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About this point I threw my back out and had to stop - :homer: Ouch! So the rest of this story will have to wait until I'm up and around again.

 

Also, I took some db readings with a cheap radio shack db meter.

 

Stock was 75 db at idle, 85 db at 2000 rpm and 88 db reving to 4000 rpm.

 

No cans, straight out of the x-over was 100 db at idle.

 

I didn't measure the modded cans yet, but I did, put one modded can on the bike and the sound was about half way between stock and the bare x-over.

 

I would take the absolute db numbers with a grain of salt. But the relative values should be indicative of the final results.

9_packing_is_out_2.jpg

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You can download the sound files of my bike with stock cans, open x-overs, and 1 modded can at:

 

http://www.frankschaffer.name/index%2099%20mg1.htm

 

scroll to the bottom of the page and there are 3 links. My computer won't stream them so you have to right click and select save target as and then run them locally. I save stuff on my desk top so it is easy to find and delete later.

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Guest robbrugg

Thanks for posting the sounds - I personally love the thunder of raw V11, but my neighbors would freak! Los Angeles cops would probably have a cow too - they seem to ignor the HD's though.

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Guest Thundering Subash

A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks for posting these. :bier: Now that I can see what the guts look like, I may drill mine out with just 3 large holes spaced between each end cap screw. I should then be able to fish out the packing material until the desired level of loudness is achieved. :blink:

 

-Chris :bike:

 

:mg:

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Guest rosso mandello

Hey, nice work.

I am interested, do you hawe to make adjustmens on the fuel intake, the electric system, or do you just drive along.

I am going to strip the ROSSO MANDELLO one of these days

regards :mg:

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OH NO! I just talked to my welder and he suggested a different way to do this that is a million times easier....

 

Remove the sleeve just as I did, but then just cut a 3 x 6 inch opening in the SIDE of the muffler can near the rear. Then you can pull out the packing and the welder will have a simple job welding the removed piece back in without all the alignment and tweaking that cutting the end off entails!

 

I'm going to edit step one to mention this.

5_grind_complete.JPG

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