Hey guys, I'm having a similar issue with my '02 V11 LM - symptoms are:
1. difficult start, meaning starter is working for 3-5s before bike fires up. Don't have any measurements, but based on the sound of the starter motor, it sounds like it's not getting the juice it needs to turn over quickly. Bike has always had this issue; fresh battery is better, but that's not the issue - battery is good.
2. I added a kill switch, from battery to all the harnesses that typically connect to the negative terminal of the battery. I did this because the bike will kill itself, drawing battery somewhere, over the period of a week or two. I've tried tracking down the leak, but can't find it, thus the kill switch. Since adding the kill switch issue #1 has gotten worse, just slightly though, seems like the starting circuit was borderline before doing this. I would say the switch is only making the job 5-10% harder, based on time to start. The switch is properly built and wired, 30A switch for continuous use, Japanese built, and reads 0.1ohm fully wired to the bike.
3. after a few failed starts, either due to the bike sitting for a while and just needing extra juice to start, or after I've done a few SHORT low RPM rides, where the charge circuit doesn't have enough chance to really replenish the battery to full charge, the bike will just "click", "click, "click, from the starter relay I assume. This is degraded from the slow starter, so I know it is at least not an intermittent issue with the starter.
4. after reading a few of these pages, I decided to start measuring. The first thing I got to was the starter button - it's reading 36-40M Ohm when fully pressed in. That's just across the starter button. Assuming that's not right, right?! Assuming that is the case, anyone know where to buy that switch? I am just looking for the switch for 2 reasons, I don't want to pull the harness, just to replace that switch, and two, the "switch" module, which includes the plastic, and harness, is around $160.
5. the run/kill toggle is good, completely open, and 0.1 Ohm closed.
6. rectifier/regulator is brand new, and so are the relays
7. any pointers on how to check the ignition switch (the one with the key)?
