badmotogoozer
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Posts posted by badmotogoozer
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Vague reference to episode on "The Long Way Round" where he busted the frame on his Beamer, had a local villager weld it back up, blowing his ECU in the process.
And spikey hair...
cheers,
Rj
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I forgot to mention that if you DO any welding on your bike (or any ECU equipped vehicle) avoid the "Ewan MacGregor syndrome" and remove the ECU first.
Rj
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Not directly on point but reminds me of what I did this past weekend. Got the Guz together and started her up - Wonderful!
Did my usual end of project clean up - sweep floor and DAMMIT there's this inch diameter, 1/4 inch thick rubber disk on the floor. What have I missed?? Where does this part go?? I don't remember it at all..
Check parts book. Check here - looking madly. Spend most of the day trying to figure out what the hell it is...
Frustrated - crack beer. Sit and fume. Stare at bloody bike. Then it hits me... that's the bit I cut off the sidestand bumper nearly a year ago...
cheers,
Rj
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Granted, Craftsman bits are crap, but am I the only one who sees there was a bigger problem than crappy soft bolts or crappy tools - ie "stomping on breaker bar". I think the result just might have been the same with Snap-On!
You're in a bad place Daniel! May the force be with you! Hope the good suggestions of others gets you out of it... Been there myself. Too many times.
Can you weld? Anyone you know with an arc welder? If so, tack weld the shitty socket to the bolt. Then use a dead blow or similar heavy hammer to strike sharply whatever leverage you are using. Best way out I've found. If it doesn't come loose with a few shots, DON"T GET MAD!! (ask me how I know
) get out the penetrating oil and let it soak while having a beer, then hit it again. Repeat as necessary. cheers,
Rj
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Flyin Brian is the chap I bought my new Arai from. Accepted my Buy it Now offer and shipping was only $19. Reasonable for a helmet I thought... Arrived in two days.
Rj
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Several people have been asking me what gaskets to order for installing the sloppage sheets so....
You'll need to order.
01003600 x1 The sump gasket.
01003650 x2 Block to spacer gaskets, one for each side of the sheet.
90706140 x2 O-rings for the thermostat housing.
You may also want to order, but probably not strictly *necessary*
90706948 x1 O-ring for the filter access plate.
30153000 x1 Oil filter.
Pete
Added parts required and numbers according to Pete.
Rj
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It's been almost exactly one year since my V11 rolled off its stand and onto my freshly completed 74 Duc. I'm hoping this will be a much better year!
cheers,
Rj
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Hey Crooz - if you'd still like to check out RossoPuro's other bits they can be found by clicking on the icon in the "site sponsor" area at the top of the page.
cheers,
Rj
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Not as long as one forum member is allowed to constantly mock, ridicule, and insult other members.
This used to be a gentleman's forum...
Rj
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SNIP
In fact,having re-read your last paragraph I would like a further clear and lucid explanation.
And try to do it without being patronising or a smartarse.
Well said Big J. Your post was neither patronising or smartarse. Rat hopes you will accept BS, mixed with ridicule and obscurity, in lieu of clear and lucid explanation. Seems to be enough for his sheeple to accept.
Rj
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I had to quit tequilla. It makes me slutty.
Rj
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I was thinking more along the lines of pistolas at dawn, but since neither of our countries allows such gentlemanly dispute settlements...
And you are absolutely correct Dave. He's flip flopping again. Funny how Rat will accept his precious yet flawed K&N filter "study" as absolute proof, yet when you make the same connection with Ryland's work - out comes the dictionary again.
At least his behavior is consistent. Anything that meets or supports his preconceived notions is heralded as absolute proof and anything that contradicts his supreme authority is chastized and berated, no matter how sound.
It's like arguing with a 5 year old.
Rj
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Congrats on yet another personal attack Rat.
Dave, don't worry about the child. His only defense mechanism is to attack personally whenever someone questions his supreme authority. This behavior is very common in those with superiority complexes. Typical of Type B personalities who so desperately want the world to think that they are really Type A. Also very common with men who have never been happy with their pitifully small weiners.
He's a joke. And each one of his personal attacks shows everyone who he really is.
My favorite was when he was trying to attack my being single. ??? Ran out of any real argument. Laughable loser.
Rj
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I've used plug kits to get home and to the shop to have it replaced, but never drove any real distance on a plugged tire. IMO it's just cheap insurance to get rid of it.
Painful, but in the scheme of things, just a very small drop in the bucket you've already poured into the bike...
Funny how most of us won't hesitate to drop $$$ on bling bits or go fast bits but when it comes to a puncture, nobody wants to spend the $200 on peace of mind and safety.
Rj
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Forget the green paint! I want to know more about those Heads!! They look wicked evil.
How did the Tenni gals get out again?
Rj
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The fast idle lever is on the left bar. The lever that moves up and down (some may call it a choke) increasing the idle when starting cold. Check that it is fully "up". Then go to the left side throttle body - in front and below you will see where the fast idle cable attaches (move the lever and you'll find it). With the lever fully up, loosen the cable clamp and make sure there is no tension in the cable when you do it back up.
If this does not help, it is time to set your TPS (throttle position sensor). Lots of threads on this.
good luck!
Rj
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You don't want to see my system of stick-strapped-across-the-forks / string / pulley / coke-bottle-filled-with-4 lb of water.......
Makes more sense than a calibrated wrist!
Rj
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Your headstock is loose. I had mine keep coming loose until I pulled the front end apart and figured Guzzi didn't get one of the bearings fully seated. Using it kept causing it to loosen up. Finally the bearing was Fooked (as many of my bearings were
) no problems with the new bearings seated properly.When you take it to your dealer make sure they check that the bearings are seated properly, not just tightened up. Else you'll find the same problem again in a few months.
cheers,
Rj
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Appologies to all Californians with the exception of WackoRatto and, of course, your Governor.
I figured if you elected him, must mean it is the local dialect. I stand corrected.
Rj
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I'm with ya Raz. While I agree that lubing anything that moves is a good thing, I don't believe that this is the cause. So far the failures have all been in the same spot and cracked in the same manner. This suggests to me that this is more of a design/metallurgy fault than simple oxidation. The oxidation pics I've seen show the corrosion on the inside where the mount bolt goes through. The rubber eye should handle some roughness on either surface. Stressing it to crack? Should not do that. Something is amiss wrt metallurgy/design.
Rj
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So - do I get another quiz point for nailing the estimate?
Rj
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Just a quick note WRT soldering a crimp connection...
If you decide to solder as well as crimp, be sure NOT to solder (tin the wire) before crimping! Also be careful not to use too much solder. If it wicks down the wire, the wire will break where the solder stops, likely at a most inopertune time.
Rj
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Only 7 days? We've been getting it since November. I hope the bright shiney thing in the sky returns again. I'm losing faith...
Rj
Yikes! What did I do?
in Special place for banter and conversation
Posted
The only trike I've ever liked (wheels rear type) was the one Jesse James "Monster Garaged" out of an old Peterbuilt. Massive diesel engine, trans, drive wheels and a single wheel out front. Strap a bit of a cage to sit side saddle and blast down the road.
Also about the only JJ product I've gotten a hoot out of! Now That's a trike!
Rj