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laurent

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Posts posted by laurent

  1. 3 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

    Personally I'd invest in a Dye check kit and learn how to use it. My gearbox that I stripped and reassembles was cracked but not visible to the naked eye and showing no signs of leakage. I dye checked it found the hairline crack and weld repaired and re enforced the area and stress relieved the other mount areas that are stress raisers. My original gearbox isn't showing any signs of cracking or leaking either but you can be sure I'll be dye checking it in the future to be sure and then removing the stress raisers before any further use.

    Ciao  

    Hey Phil,

    it's always a gamble buying second hand but I think I don't have anything to loose buying this gearbox for 250$. If the housing and the inside gremlins are good I am golden....if the inside is crap but the housing is good I am silver plated, I'll use my gearbox internals.....and in the worst case scenario I am getting a bad gearbox with a crack too small for the naked eye to see (much better than my crack). That will allow me to empty it, have it welded up while I still drive my leaking glued together gearbox and at the end of the season I can swap things over and most probably have a bag full of spare parts :) Does this make sense or am I going bonkers?

    P.s I most certainly will dye check the gearbox.

    • Like 1
  2. 4 minutes ago, docc said:

    Great news! Congrats!

    So, what is the "stuff" hanging in front of the input hub. I cannot figure that out . . .

    I don't know at this time...maybe a bad bearing? I just am thrilled to get a non cracked case with lots of spares to boot for less money that I would have to pay a good welder. I will replace all the seals and look inside when I get the gearbox:)

    • Like 2
  3. 16 hours ago, docc said:

    That Arizona box is worth the closer look. IIRC, a right side mount break is atypical (if ever?).

    Still, those images beg the question. Do those lines wipe off?

    https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/XwYAAOSw03NiI78j/s-l1600.jpg

    Plus, too many rusty bits to be an Arizona bike.  Maybe came from the salt-air Pacific coast?

     

    It looks to me that it was pressure washed and the residual grime is concentrated around the RH lug. I found a few reports of RH lugs being cracked....Still waiting for the seller to feedback. 

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, docc said:

    Remember, the Moto Guzzi EV is designated "V11" as well, but runs the 5speed gearbox and Tonti-style frame.

    Thanks Docc, that will help me searching with the correct keywords

    • Like 1
  5. 35 minutes ago, laurent said:

    Yes saw that one...but look closely at the RH lug...there might be a crack. I did ask confirmation and the seller did not respond yet. Hope to get additional pictures tomorrow. If this gearbox is good...I'd owe you one Paul

     

    Screen Shot 2022-03-10 at 2.27.15 PM.png

  6. Ok here the follow up. I took my courage (I am new at TIG welding) in hands and built a bracket which I welded to the frame. Then installed the bracket I got from Motivcycle works. As an experiment and to give me more time to find another gearbox /solution I have JB fixed the crack really cleaning it well beforehand. I will feedback and let you know if it is going to leak again....or not:). Also I made a spacer for the gearbox mount, it fits between the lugs and prevents any tension when tightening the bolt

    P.s tried to buy a new housing and no one sells them anymore. Now it's either welding or getting a good second hand box.

    Here some pictures https://1drv.ms/f/s!AvMw5i-09AkLwAf796UfANGWc3b_

    • Like 2
  7. On 9/10/2021 at 4:37 PM, VtwinStorm said:

    I've heard a MAGNI fairing kit is around $1500 USD...so pretty dear, price wise, but, if you are like me... you justify such prices to reward companies such as MAGNI for catering to our niche bikes...and if you are also like me, you become disgusted with the thought of putting Chinese eBay trash on such a lovely motorcycle, such as a V11.

    I'd contact MAGNI directly to get a current price. With import duty, tariffs, the price will probably be ugly, even though the kit is heavenly.

    I tried to contact Magni 3x and have had no luck. I doubt they still do business. I would love to find a Magni fairing.....anyone??

    L.

    • Like 1
  8. On 5/31/2021 at 2:16 AM, Tony21 said:

    Good Morning All,

    My name is Tony and I have recently been given the paperwork for the 'Daytona Dr John' register.

    This register logs the owners of the 20 Dr John bikes that were produced in 1994 for the UK market.

    Of the 20 bikes that were initially produced, 1 was involved in a fire and so was lost.

    This left 19 bikes, and the owners are listed on the paperwork I have.

    The register was stopped in 1998 when the owner who ran the register sold his Dr John.

    So, I have now picked up the reins and decided to give it a go and try and find the owners.

    So far I have the details of 10 owners confirmed, leaving 9 owners out there somewhere.

    Three of the bikes moved into Europe, two to Belgium and one to Holland, leaving 6 in the UK, who knows where????

    So, If you know of a Daytona Dr John owner please ask them to contact me so I can put them on the register for this rare and iconic bike.

    My email is antony.maddox007@gmail.com or if whatsapp is better +447793085946

    Kind regards,

    Tony.

    look at this one...S/n 11    https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/522966779138494/?media_id=0&ref=share_attachment

     

  9. 57 minutes ago, Rolf Halvorsen said:

    Depending on which side you have logged into for HMB-Guzzi, you get 2 answers:

    1 - available for about 260 Euros

    2 - For the moment not available

    I just got a response from them......not available:(

    • Confused 1
  10. 30 minutes ago, docc said:

    Is your Sport titled as a 2001, then?

    If I recall correctly, this is the first RedFrame we have seen without the Frame Plate mounting tab.

    Also, IIRC, our member @Tinus89 added a frame tab to his 2001 Rosso Mandello to install the mid-frame support plate . . .

     

    Yes it is titled as a 2001

     

    • Thanks 1
  11. 9 minutes ago, docc said:

    My 3/2000 Sport has the tab. Apparently, it was eliminated for the 2001 >black< ShortFrame "Rosso Mandello."

    Your Greenie Sport is a 2001, @laurent?

    If you you feel up along the bottom of the Spine? Is the tab there?

    I am feeling along the bottom of her spine....remember she's naked..sorry couldn't help it. No definitely no tabs along the bottom of the spine :(

    on the id plate it says 9-2000

    • Thanks 1
  12. 1 hour ago, docc said:

    So here are a few images that may help. It is very hard to get images of it in situ.

    LowRyter's installation from the right looking forward:

    072D107089A44A7BAF02742EDC33A619.jpg

    MySport looking down from the left side (tank, airbox, starter, all removed), barely visible beyond the injector:

    IMG_2739.JPG

    From the left through the "throttle rod tunnel":

    IMG_2757.jpg

     

    The mounting tab, on the early RedFrame only, seen midway on this frame turned bottom side up:

    Screen%20Shot%202020-11-15%20at%206.29.2

    One more from the left (tank and airbox removed) :

    frame_plate.JPG

    Crap, my frame does not have any upper attachment means/nothing the plate can bolt onto...it seems the bracket will be no good for my frame.

    IMG_8387.JPG

    • Sad 1
  13. 1 hour ago, deadpen69 said:

    It's funny you say that because after Don educated me a little about the part and the recall he said, "We don't sell too many of these!" I had to chuckle. I guess V-11's aren't exactly where the money is these days. You could have got a case of beer or two. Don said there's no instructions included but advised me to have patience when negotiating the throttle bodies but beyond that I'm not sure how this thing goes. Is this self-explanatory? Does anyone have a picture or two they wouldn't mind sharing? Not trying to Hi-jack your post Laurent, Sorry about your greenie. If not for this thread, I wouldn't have known to look into mine while I had the tank off so thanks and good luck with your machine.

    All good myself I am wondering how this brace fits. Have ordered it 3 weeks ago, still waiting. Couldn't find any pictures of it installed.

    • Like 2
  14. 1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:

    This theory's been mentioned before and I'm not convinced this is the issue. I believe it's a micro crack initiated when the casting cools and is due to the sharp edge at this point and the large cross sectional change which causes a differential cooling rate. The crack then propagates over the miles and heating/cooling cycles. Yours is way worse than mine and well beyond any temporary JBweld temporary solution. You may as well get it properly repaired because the chances of buying a second hand one that already has a latent crack is high. Part of owning an old classic like a V11. You need to do some "engineering" eventually and more often than not on a few different areas.

    To effectively repair this you need to chase out the crack with a die grinder and get it welded by someone that knows what they are doing. The idea is to heat the case to around 150 C before the welding starts and in your case half way through the weld repair stop and peen the weld to stress relieve the area and then finish it off and peen the finishing weld. It's not a complex scenario to someone that knows what they are doing.

    My gearbox mount showed no signs of any cracking, I just checked it because I'm a physco and knew of the issue. Seems it was a good decision. My original gearbox needs the same done to it as well.

    Ciao   

    You're lucky to be in Australia......I would already be on your doorstep harassing to buy your other gearbox HaHaha

    • Haha 2
  15. 8 minutes ago, deadpen69 said:

    Are those transmission braces available for purchase anywhere Scud? I looked around here a little and couldn't find any info. 

    I ordered them at don@motivcycleworks.com

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  16. 4 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

    If it's not broken through to the fluid compartment, I wouldn't even disassemble it. I haven't seen the crack-prone area, but if it's a dry crack in the bellhousing, I'd consider having it repaired in situ while it's bolted to the motor and cools to it's appropriate position. If you have more reason or desire to get the motor out of the frame, so much the easier. 

    What's perfect, preferred, or a sufficient minimum are all different answers but don't serve the question, only your sensibilities. Mine run towards 'best utility with sufficient optics'. 

    Anyone have a picture of a similar crack?

    It is leaking gearbox oil/cracked through

    JPG00020.JPG

    • Sad 1
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