GSXR814
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Posts posted by GSXR814
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6 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Corrections. Old size looks like M22 X 1.0 without pulling the locknut off. Later bikes definitely M24 X 1.0.
Phil
Later as in black frame 02 onwards? Sorry I'm relatively new to V11 ownership.
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4 hours ago, FreyZI said:
Could there actually be three sizes of "pins": M20, M22, and M24?
For those concerned about the excessive weight of the pins, I put the pair of M22 pins on the scale: 191 grams (about 6.75 ounces).
Im not looking to replace the pins at the moment, just the very tatty nuts with something better/lighter.
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8 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Why Titanium? because the std ones are really quite heavy. Ti ones are on my list of things to machine up for my bike but I'd need to use a different method for holding them instead of an allan socket as i don't have a broaching tool. The thread will be MXX by 1.0mm I'm almost certain. I have a pair of large ones as spares that I can check later today. Important if you want to buy a replacement pork chop.
Phil
Im just looking at nuts at the moment not the actual axles.
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4 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:
Also figure I would add that in metric bolts the thread value is the distance between each thread. So, the larger the bolt the higher the value all else being equal. And the smaller the bolt the lower the value. A larger diameter bolt will have a larger gap between threads when the thread is at the same pitch / angle.
OK. Thankyou.
Any idea what size the threads are on the axle stubs?
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Next question....
I think I'm right in saying M20 x 2 is standard thread.
So is fine M20 x 1.5 or M20 x 1.0?
Id like to get titanium ones so I don't really want to make an incorrect order!
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44 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
Depends on what year. There are 2 different sizes. The earlier red frame bikes had the fine thread in from memory 18mm and the later M20.
Phil
Mine is a later one so hopefully M20 fine👍
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Can anybody confirm what size thread is on the short stub axles that thread into the 'porkchops' and then into the swingarm bearings?
My current thinking is M20 x 1.0 fine
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13 hours ago, docc said:
If the front brake hand lever does not light the brake light, does the rear brake foot lever?
I suspect, although I haven't checked, that rather than the brake light still not working it is actually permanently on. I broke a spade connector off the original and fitted the new one which had arrived the day after the issues started, initially after I broke the connector the brake light still worked off the foot brake, then nothing during the issue. Now I, thinking about it, I suspect I've managed to fit the microswitch with the plunged wedged in the light on position. I'll check it out later.
All was good when I went for a 40 mile spin yesterday, briefly had no neutral light, other than that it was fine.
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10 hours ago, guzzler said:
Doh...just realised you checked the light!
Sorry back to the normal programme.
Cheers
I only went as far as confirming the bulb was OK. Filament looks fine and rear light works just no brake light.
Im going to take it out for a short spin today and see if anything else stops working again😁
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I've had a play with it today.
Shuffled the relays about and inspected the underside of the fuse box. It all looks OK, but it can't be as once I had refitted it all everything worked as it should apart from the lack of a brake light.
Check the bulb and all the connectors and all looks good so I'm guessing I have a partially knackered relay?
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8 hours ago, guzzler said:
Mate
# 1 ( Start ) is closest to the tank # 5 ( Fuel ) furthest from it.
Cheers
Ps these two NEED to be 5 pin relays but most of us put 5 pin ones in all spots!
All mine seem to be 5 pin.
I have ordered 10 spares😁
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2 hours ago, p6x said:
I recently had this issue myself. I used the horn and lost the lights, including the low oil pressure warning.
The 15 amps fuse in position 5 from the left had been somewhat swapped with the one in position 6. Adding the horn to the rest was too much for the 5 Amps fuse.
I might change them all just because, but none look blown or dodgy but they are old.
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26 minutes ago, guzzler said:
I agree probably relays...
Mine has had this before I checked /cleaned them esp #1 and # 5 and blew out any dust etc from the relay base which sorted it.
By the way toggling the kill switch can help but really a stop gap measure.
Cheers
1 and 5 with 1 being furthest left when looking at them from the left side of the bike?
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1 hour ago, GuzziMoto said:
That could be classic relay issues. A lack of the fuel pump running when you turn it on can be a relay issue (assuming it is not a problem with the fuel pump). The fuel pump should always cycle when you turn it on. If it doesn't, something is probably wrong. The relay issue can be the relays themselves or the connections at the base of the relays.
If the fuel pump runs but it doesn't start when you push the starter button a common set of issues there is either the side stand switch or the neutral switch that turns the neutral light on. There is an interlock between the side stand and the neutral switch.
I would check your fuses, and your relays. Also, confirm the headlight is on and not just the running light in the headlight bucket. If the headlight isn't on the alternator probably isn't charging the battery. Others will add more no doubt.
Its very much all or nothing. Either no fuel pump prime and nothing on the starter button. Or pump primes and she fires up.
Further moving of relays has resulted in consistant starting. But still no horn, brake light or rev counter.
Ill lift the relay bar and check wiring underneath tomorrow.
Ive pulled all the main connectors around the headstock area and cleaned them with contact cleaner, in the bikes defence they all looked mint anyway👍
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I'm quite new to Guzzi ownership, so these symptoms might be very familiar to some of you, but I'm a bit lost to be honest.
Got the bike out this morning to go to work. Ignition on, fuel pump primes, jabbed the starter and just a click, it did that twice, then started up fine.
Rode to work all good.
Go to come home from work, ignition on, no fuel pump priming, nothing at all when I jabbed the starter button.
Id read relays can be troublesome, although I'm not sure if any of the ones under the seat are the starter relay?, so I shuffled them about and checked all the fuses, all good, and still nothing. I started shuffling the relays around again when my mate came over to help. We decided to attempt to jump start it as initially I had a strong headlight and the horn worked but the headlight was fading and the horn had stopped working.
It fired up, although I don't remember hearing the fuel pump prime, and ran fine all the way home. I'm not sure if it started due to the jump or swapping the relays about?
Got home, turned her off and back on and the fuel pump primed and she started fine, but all the way home and still now I have no horn, no brake light and no rev counter.
I am somewhat at a loss to know what to look at first so any and all advice will be great fully recieved.
Thanks
Mike
Swingarm stub axle thread size
in Technical Topics
Posted
Got the thread gauge and the vernier out.
Mine are M20 x 1.0