guzziownr
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Posts posted by guzziownr
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The plan? Transfer the electric vest wiring from the now engine-less Eldo to the V11 and go for a ride. Perhaps Marcus Dairy to see how many Harleys are still riding. Supposed to be in the 50s tomorrow, colder in CT. tho.
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It's an '80s band I like and it's got Dinosaurs on the cover. Guzziownr is a useful tag in other places, bit silly here. Alternate avatar looks like this:
Or
DW
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Just stumbled across this gem at the auto parts store. Up until now I had been using a couple of homemade adapters to read current at a very natural point, the FUSE SOCKET> Very handy for locating parasitic drains and checking general current draw. I paid $20 for mine but they spoil me rotten at the local auto parts store.http://www.esitest.com/fuse_buddy.html
Nice gizmo Gary, checked your PM's lately?
DW
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However, in winter the shed amasses condensation on the roof as the temperature varies, and water can get under the shed floor in torrential rain. This causes condensation on the bike, and even raining condensation from the roof.
How 'bout one of these for the roof:
http://store.sundancesolar.com/ststsove.html
It's stainless!
DW
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Something that looks like the Griso headers w/ a proper 2->1->2 utilizing the stock cans [or aftermarket slip-ons] would be a treat. [or like the unit illustrated on the Jack-All]
Just doesn't make a lot of sense to me to offer something that just recreates the V11's less-than-ideal stock exhaust control.
Ride on!
That looks like a two into one to me Skeeve...
I too would like a full system.
DW
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Nice post and nice picture.
A Vermont v11 Raid should be on our schedule.
DW
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Thank you sooooo much I just need a little more giddence and a spell checker
Verrry interesting posts on this topic. In the past folks have recommended separating and cleaning all connections where they join. Dielectric grease might help after you have cleaned:
"The primary purposes of dielectric grease is to keep out moisture, dirt, salt, and basically prevent corrosion. Prevention of corrosion helps to keep the metal-to-metal contact point of terminals conducting electricity.
But Dielectric grease is an insulator or a NON conductor of electricity. This is why dielectric grease is recommended for use on the inside of spark plug wire boots; so that it will help prevent arching around the boot."
Try Mozilla Firefox 2.0 for it's spell check features:
www.mozilla.com
DW
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I am doing up a v7 Sport. (snip) I'm interested in using a VALEO.
I bought a Valeo for my Eldorado (Bosch) on Ebay from these good folks:
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/valeo.html
They said it would bolt up and it did!
Fantastic :!:
France is a beautiful place
DW
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I was just looking at this site the other day, no experience with them:
http://www.rebootguzzispares.com/index.htm...frame.htm&2
Round up the usual suspects:
http://www.agostiniduilio.com/
Plenty of dealings with the above and no disappointments in 15 short years.
DW
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Yes so
uglyWhat's weird is how it strays from the H-D fold. All Sportster owners are wanna-be Big Twin owners. They immediately rush out to buy Genuine Accessories to make the 'lil ones look bigger.
H-D has released some cosmetic kits in the street-tracker vein and this seems to be oriented in that direction. I don't see the market. Mr. and Mrs. America has traditionally rejected any movement away from the core brand values.
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What makes any of you think your living in a democracy, just cause you have a vote dos'nt make it a democracy. The supposed civilised world has conned the public into thinking that polititians listen to them politicians only listen to BIG business and run their countries accordingly. This is why foreign policy is so screwed up we are too busy invading countries to steal their natural resource's on the ordes of big business. What say do we the public have @#!#$# all.
Politics and religion are belief systems with mostly no recourse to provable facts or science. After a while the argument devolve into name-calling and peoples feelings get hurt. I don't mind reading or talking about politics, but I am not the sensitive type. My Guzzisti friends run the gamut from liberal weenies to gun-toting conservative jackasses. I can't hear them talk while we are riding.
I stopped riding with one guy who had opinions contrary to mine because I thought he was a dangerous rider.
Politics don't enter into it.
DW
I believe that all government is evil, and that trying to improve it is largely a waste of time.
H. L. Mencken
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For the historical perspective I would suggest Moto Guzzi Big Twins By Greg Field. He works for Moto Int. as well and his book is very well written and enjoyable.
Guzzisti are very well informed and are often disappointed by dealers who can't be bothered to read up or fire up the computer.
DW
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"I don't want a pickle..."
Just kidding, I'm with Todd, here's Richard Thompson on Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxSCJpnojuM
DW
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Thanks for y'er post, DW. I'm facing a similar thing this afternoon. The worst of my concerns were that the forging wouldn't take heat & bending without looking like something that came out of a slag heap afterward. I couldn't tell if it was plated or not. I reckon not.
I'll fire up the torch and have at it meself.
Thanks f'er the inspiration.
Thanks for the thanks. I have done this with hand levers in the past with excellent results. My chief worry was that the thing would start to smoke and turn black. If that happened I was going to strip it and the other one to match.
DW
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With my Eldo off the road for a clutch and a cam the V11 has been pressed into daily commuting.
Some neanderthal backed into it and bent the peg.
No other damage thankfully.
I corralled my 15yo cousin to help out, promising that he could hold the torch.
His eyes got big when he saw that I wasn't kidding...
I took the peg off by removing the circlip and bolt, clamped it in the vice and slowly raised the temperature with a heat gun. I used a big combination wrench as a lever and gave some experimental pulls with no effect.
The propane torch came next. The young'un applying heat with a manic expression of glee.
After a minute or two the peg softened enough to move. It isn't straight per se but at least my foot won't be slipping off as yellow cabs try to send me to paradise. Whatever finish is on the pegs stood up nicely and there are no obvious signs of cracks on the peg.
DW
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Sounds great! Where do I get one of these gems?
Here is the full post:
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...0guard&st=0
Has Edge returned from his trip to Afganistan?
DW
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... A piece of perspex cut to fit in the triangular part of the shock cantilever brace and drilled so it can be retained by cable ties seems to be the commonest form I've seen ...
I'll get right on that.
As for the frag on the plug? Well, you'll always get frag. That does look a bit extreme to me but how serious it is will of course be dependent on how long it was since the oil was last changed and ow brutal you and the PO were with gearchanging.
Pete
Brutal gearchanging! My size 14s have the delicate touch of a ballet dancer.
I do make more changes per mile than the average person. It's that NYC traffic. BTW how did the young 'n like our little town?
SHE (who must be obeyed) ordered me 4 quarts of the best from these folks.
http://www.hrpworld.com/RedLineShockproofG...;action=product
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That seems pretty normal to me. I saw the same thing when I changed my trans fluid. Btw I hope you used RedLine Heavy Shockproof, that made a big improvent in my bike. I havent drained the Redline from my tranny yet but I expect to see less of that metal on my magnet when I do.
Thanks for the support. When my Jackal was new I saw a similar amount of swarf. Less as time went on.
I wanted to use the redline but I don't know where to get it. (I am in NYC) Since I was changing the switch I did the oil as well. I just used the heaviest I could find in the auto store and plan to change again soon.
DW
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Whe said anything about brushing and flossing? Just swish and gargle with whiskey and swallow, and yes regularly
It could be one of your pistons is a little tight or oxidized or plaque or gingivitus.
THAT may need brushing, or rather something more abrasive than Listerine or Jim Beam.
Worst case scenario, dentures
Speaking of which, is there a cross reference for the rear brake disk with Ducati or Aprillia?
It would be nice to put a floater back there, and maybe an upgraded caliper.
Yeah, let's see that cross reference.
Waitaminnit! What's this in the archive, someone who agrees with me. How intelligent this fellow is:
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry104315
DW
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Trans oil changed, neutral switch swapped thanks to Moto Int. and Greg Field ("We stand by what we sell, it's a small showroom")
Oil was milky, steel and rubber washer replaced by aluminum crush washer. Yucky swarf picture below:
DW
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Good job with the camera
I tried but could not match your photo.
I agree with the others that the position is fine.
YMMV
No man is a prophet in his own land...
Camera is a $100 Olympus that takes great macro pix for ebay
I appreciate the counsel to brush and floss regularly but the caliper is quite clean and at 4K has not had a real chance to build up grunge. I will clean throughly when I get new pads from MG Cycle and look for a nice shim to put on the rear axle between the caliper mount and the wheel.
DW
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guzzi owner
post the pics of your calliper problem then we can see if we are all on the right track
I have had the same as martin, dirt build up in the calliper and sticking brake pedal
It's about two-thirds over (picture at a slight angle). How thick is the disk?
DW
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These are my thoughts -
Won't the pistons self centre the pads.
I'd suspect a build up of brake dust preventing the piston retuning properly. causing the excessive wear on the side that's dragging.
I can't see the caliper to see if centred on the disc due to the width of the tyre.
There is a "groan" caused by this dirt build up noticeable when pushed backwards.
Could it just be a build up of brake dust?
My pads used to stick due to the pedal pivot seizing up, there are no return springs, just hydraulic pressure.
It's funny, you would think that the pressure would be equal and they would self center but the same thing happened on my Eldo. If the caliper is not centered the closer side wears faster.
So, move the caliper or the wheel/disk?
DW
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Keep in mind the manual sucks for diagraming where to put spacers, washers, shims, etc.
It may be possible that you have the infamous short bearing spacer and that your bearings are getting crushed....but that would only account for ABOUT half a millimeter off center.
If you forgot the spacer between the wheel and the rear drive, that could throw it off center.
Maybe I should have posted the caliper picture instead of Salma...
Suffice it to say it is more than a couple of millimeters off.
I thought the little spacer btw wheel and rear drive was pretty funny and it is where it's supposed to be. The wheel had never been off before so all spacers and attendant hardware were in place (causing the uneven pad wear) and are once again.
So if I need to shim the wheel rather than the caliper...
DW
Has anyone ordered from FBF lately?
in 24/7 V11
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It's a small operation and quite friendly with good customer service. They will come through.
DW