F344
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Posts posted by F344
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You can download the sound files of my bike with stock cans, open x-overs, and 1 modded can at:
http://www.frankschaffer.name/index%2099%20mg1.htm
scroll to the bottom of the page and there are 3 links. My computer won't stream them so you have to right click and select save target as and then run them locally. I save stuff on my desk top so it is easy to find and delete later.
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About this point I threw my back out and had to stop -
Ouch! So the rest of this story will have to wait until I'm up and around again.Also, I took some db readings with a cheap radio shack db meter.
Stock was 75 db at idle, 85 db at 2000 rpm and 88 db reving to 4000 rpm.
No cans, straight out of the x-over was 100 db at idle.
I didn't measure the modded cans yet, but I did, put one modded can on the bike and the sound was about half way between stock and the bare x-over.
I would take the absolute db numbers with a grain of salt. But the relative values should be indicative of the final results.
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Text for photo 7 above...
7. I found that using a screwdriver to pry out the packing was much quick and easier that pulling it out with pliers. (3-4 minutes vs. 30)
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photo 7
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photo 6
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photo 5
4. and 5. In these photos you can see the 2 welds you are going to have to cu through. The outer perimeter weld is easy to reach with a hand grinder. The inner perimeter weld is much harder to reach. Note the angle the inner pipe intercepts the outer plate. After having seen this on my first can I was able to do a cleaner job on the second.
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photo 4
4. and 5. In these photos you can see the 2 welds you are going to have to cu through. The outer perimeter weld is easy to reach with a hand grinder. The inner perimeter weld is much harder to reach. Note the angle the inner pipe intercepts the outer plate. After having seen this on my first can I was able to do a cleaner job on the second.
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photo 3
3. I found that tapping on the 1" exhauset outlet with a block of
wood to cushion the lip worked better that trying to use the wood
to tap the main plate surface. There is white fiberglass layered
between the outside of the stainless can and the inside of the
alum sheath. Do not get the fiberglass on you, it is very
irritating. Use masking tap to cover and contain the glass as it
becomes exposed.
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photo 2
You need one of thos little star, security bits to unscrew the bolts.
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photo 1
Before you start this, I have to say that it is probably a better idea to just go out and buy some other cans. I'm waiting on some TI cans from MG, but the dealer says they might take a while to arrive. I also got a spare set of cans on ebay for $75 so I decided to tinker.
That said... here you go.
BUT WAIT!!!!!!!!
READ THIS...
OH NO! I just talked to my welder and he suggested a different way to do this that is a million times easier....
Remove the sleeve just as I did, but then just cut a 3 x 6 inch opening in the SIDE of the muffler can near the rear. Then you can pull out the packing and the welder with have a simple job to weld the removed piece back in without all the alignment and tweaking that cutting the end off entails!
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Could somene post the exact link on TeoLamers web site for the tail piece? I can't find it.
Thanks,
Frank
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I knew the FBF kit would lean the mixture. I've been having a little trouble with plug loading so I was interested in quantifying the leaner mixture. I have a temp gun thermal reader (from tempgun.com) so I measured the exhaust pipe at the bottom of the arc in front of where my toes would be if I was riding the bike. I had to take the reading here because the temp was above the gun range at the head. Anyway, the results:
Stock configuration at 2500 rpm lt 270 F rt 297 F
w/ FBF airbox at 2500 rpm lt 322 F rt 336 F
These numbers in the absolute of course mean nothing. But the 40 to 50 F increase in egt means a fair bit leaner. I'll be watching my plugs to see if they run clean now.
Frank
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View from left side.
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View from rear of tank
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I just pulled my airbox and replaced it with a Ferracci filter.
I didn't have to remove the tank, but it was tight work. Here are some photos.
Frank
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Thanks Al, and Paul too. I have review the threads you guys refer to and I guess I'll just hope I get lucky.
Thanks again!
Frank
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I bought these from a guy on ebay. He said thay are good for a V11 also. Are they gonna bolt on or am I gonna have to work on them a little?
Thanks in advance.
Frank
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I got an email from Das Mototec today. The wire transfer went through, and they are shipping the parts tomorrow.
I'll post photos when the bars get here and I put them on.
Thanks everyone for the info.
Frank
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2 weeks ago I sent these guys:
A wire transfer to order a set of adjustable clip-ons. (see photo below) The transfer was completed early last week. Since then Das Mototec hasn't responded to any email.
Their website lists their phone number as: "07176 - 3729" I found the country code for Germany to be 49. I'm dialing 011 - 49 - 07176 - 3729 and the call doesn't go through. (From California)
Does anybody know if I need a city code too?
Their full contact info is:
Kontakt:
Däs Mototec
Gschwender Straße 34
D-73577 Birkenlohe
Telefon: 07176 - 3729
Fax: 07176 - 1388
e-mail: info@daes-mototec.de
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FYI here is a photo of the bottom of the MG adn Corbin.
The Corbin fits my 2003.
Frank
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http://www.powercommander.com/buynowbike.shtml
I called Power Commander and they said something changed after 2001 that makes it incompatable.
I want to put on a Ferracci airbox and remove the packing from my cans. Can I do this without a Powercommander without burning my valves or something else going wrong?
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I got excited about these until I found out what "non disponibile" means. (No availalbe)
http://www.rossopuroitalia.it/v11.htm
Looks like I am going to have to learn Italian.
Frank
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Has anybody tried the MG V11 Argal Adjustable Foot Controls?
THese guys have them for 479.00
http://www.lacyclesports.com/accessory/ent...html&lang=en-us
Just wondering.
Frank
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You Might want to talk to these guys.
https://www.cstsales.com/How_to_Articles/index.htm
Carbon fiber slivers are murder.
Be careful with this stuff, and good luck!
Frank
Unpacking the cans... don't bother-
in How to...
Posted
OH NO! I just talked to my welder and he suggested a different way to do this that is a million times easier....
Remove the sleeve just as I did, but then just cut a 3 x 6 inch opening in the SIDE of the muffler can near the rear. Then you can pull out the packing and the welder will have a simple job welding the removed piece back in without all the alignment and tweaking that cutting the end off entails!
I'm going to edit step one to mention this.