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beauchemin

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Posts posted by beauchemin

  1. Hi all, I got hold of the replacement Ohlins shock this morning and fitted it this afternoon,after an initial setting up the shock is so different to the sachs I was amazed.

    If any one has ball park settings for rebound and compression settings for the rear ohlins I would appreciate it. I have attached a couple of pictures off the broken shock for reference.shock2.jpgshock1.jpg

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    I think you should consider fitting a hugger - it will keep your nice Ohlins shock in good condition and the rear of your engine/tranny clean. The stock hugger is a useless piece of junk (as you undoubtedly know since you have removed it). I was able to get a Pyramid Plastics CBR600 hugger that fits fairly well (with a foam block spacer to move it rearwards away from the swingarm pivot). You could do all of us a huge favour by going to Pyramid Plastics and getting your bike custom fitted with a proper hugger. I'm sure that a decent number of them could be sold via the forum. http://www.pyramid-plastics.co.uk

  2. ... ordered a hagon shock, any one any experience of these? It was relatively cheap £250 compared to £350-600 for others, but it does not have a remote reservoir ...

    Reservoir or not, it's bound to be a 100% improvement over the OEM piece of junk. Either Sachs doesn't know how to build a shock, or the Guzzi beancounters got too aggressive with their beancounting in the suspension department (I'm guessing the latter.)

  3. 2003 V11 Sport, burgundy. Fully sorted, and better than new condition with @ 4,000 miles. Only one fanatical owner since bought new at Moto International. Factory warranty is still in effect until Oct.12/06. It comes with the factory Ballabio handlebar kit, Motobits foot controls, Pyramid Plastics front fender extender and rear hugger (the stock one is useless), and Traxxion forks springs. Shopstand, and service manual included. I'm asking $8900 Canadian dollars. Recent new tires - Bridgestone BT-014 front & back at 3,500 miles.

  4. I almost bought a Tonti recently but the deal didn't happen. I've ridden a buddy's Tonti a couple of years ago, but did not push it very hard in the handling department.

     

    Anyway here's the question: Is the spine frame rear suspension any better than the Tonti rear end? For example, I would like to compare vs a MkI, II, or III LeMans, or similar.

  5. Gargoyle, if you use several straight-blade screwdrivers carefully tapped into the slots of the clamps (it doesn't take much), this will spread the clamps just enough so it'll come right off.  Done carefully, it won't even chip off the paint. :whistle:

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    That method works, but if you aren't very careful you can damage the slots or scratch the paint. I use an alternate method - it works like this:

     

    1. unscrew a pinchbolt

    2. screw in a set-screw (so that it goes completely past the slot)

    3. slide in a waser (with ID slightly greater than the allen key used to screw in the set-screw) into the slot

    4. while holding the washer lined up with the bolt hole, insert the allen key again and gently unscrew the set-screw so that it spreads the clamp!

     

    Hold the washer is a bit tricky - try attaching some tape to it, that will give you a handle to slide it in and out again with out losing it.

  6. stock, rear is 18 kg, that is as you take the wheel of the bike, so complete with brakedisk. This was a 5.5inch wheel.

    Advertized weighs from aftermarket wheels are of no use, The weigh without all the stuff you need in the center. And my PVM has a cush drive build in that weighs too.

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    Paul - I'm particularly interested in your experience with the lighter rear wheel - did it improve the suspension action and thus roadholding?

     

    What is the price for a set of PVM wheels?

  7. Chris, if you're getting 10 mm stiction unladen, you might be not as far out as you think.  Your laden stiction might be ~3 mm.  Still seems a bit much to me........

    A piece of glass can tell you if the fork is twisted or not, but it can't tell you if the stanchions are parallel, as I noted.  I mention this because it should be checked. B)

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    Are you referring to the possibility that the distance between the forklegs might be different at the axle and at the lower triple clamp? Given that the right forkleg floats on the axle until the two pinchbolts are tightened leads me to believe that it is nearly impossible for this to occur. I loosened those 2 pinchbolts and pumped the forks with the wheel against a wall before re-tightening the pinchbolts. Am I missing something?

  8. Dave, measuring unladen, I would expect 5 mm stiction or more.  It's measured laden to show what happens under real-world "working" conditions.  Unladen stiction will be 2-3X laden stiction.

     

    Didn't we measure stiction on your rear shock when measuring your laden sag number - way back when???  As I recall, it was just a few mm?? :huh2:

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    I'm taking an unladen measurement.

     

     

     

    Chris, have you done any measurements to check for parallel?  How about visually checking for twist? :huh2:

     

    NOTE:  It can be out of parallel but not twisted.  But if it's twisted, it's out of parallel. :nerd:

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    I've checked this. I used a piece of glass to ensure that the legs are parallel.

  9. YIKES! :o  I get 1-2 mm.

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    Wow - that's really good. Are you sure? I would be happy with 4 or 5 mm.

     

    My fork tubes are straight and the triple clamps and axle are correctly aligned. What do I check next?

  10. I urge caution Chris...... Anyways, a guy on a KTM 950 was talking about the huge ordeal to simply change the oil. He also noted the incredibly poor fuel economy. Lastly he mentioned the devastating cost of parts, especially cosmetics. He said the price would even make BMW owners flinch.

    Enthusiastically go for another test ride, but remember no 1 bike is perfect!

    How hard can changing the oil be? Bad fuel economy??? Well, he hasn't ridden a V11 yet. Cost of parts? Well, at least he can get them...

     

     

    Last weekend I was crossing the Aldergrove/Lynden border crossing to pick up a parcel [taking advantage of our new strong dollar] , when I spotted a middle aged couple [the fellow I recognized as a former 1150GS Adventure owner] parked just on the Canadian side, brand new 950 Adventure disassemmbled in the engine area. I pulled in to help. Seems the new bike was having an electrical issue, was blowing main ignition fuses, their holiday tour only 1/2 hour long. He was very pissed off. I returned back across in 1 hour, and they were still there, but had moved everthing to the shade of a large tree, waiting for some kind of help. I felt sorry for them, as KTM's here are quite expensive, I know he paid close to $20,000 out the door, for his new, dead, bike.

    Sounds like V11s with their relays...

  11. Sorry to hear about your incident. I'm glad you were wearing all your gear. Road rash is no fun.

     

    I was cut off about 18 months ago and ended up sliding down the road. I was foolishly not wearing my leather pants and ended up with a damaged knee and some road rash. I bought a 1-piece Aerostich suit soon afterwards so that I would no longer have an excuse to wear only a jacket. That accident cured me of riding without all my gear. My knee is still not 100%, but at least I'm running again.

     

    I know what you mean about having young kids and riding motorcycles. I feel guilty about it regularly. On the other hand, we can't wrap ourselves in cotton wool - all types of weird accidents or health emergencies can happen no matter how careful we are. Once motorcycling is in your blood, it is hard to get it out.

     

    Get well soon!

    Chris

  12. Thanks for the info & pics. They look great.

    How's the length compared to the stock ones? From the picture they seem to stick out more. Are there any ground clearance issues with them lower and non-folding?

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    If they stick out by more, it is not much. There doesn't appear to be a ground clearance problem, but I haven't put them through any really sharp curves yet. I installed them a few nights ago and went for a ride last night. The comfort and riding position is significantly improved (perfect match with my Ballabio handlebar). After suspension - this is the best money you can spend on this bike.

  13. Randy:

     

    When you blast through the 99 tunnel at 70 or so, through that squirmy"planed" pavement, does it feel like the rear end of the bike is wiggling independently from the front?

     

    Mine sure does.

     

    Maybe a difference in tires? Ray, the guy who had your bike before you, did a lot of experimenting with tires to find what worked best, as he spent a lot of time chasing his buddy's R1 in the mountains. Finally, he gave up and bought an R1.

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    This squirmy handling must be a result of the "hinged-in-the-middle" frame feel. I get the same thing and it's driving me crazy. I recently switched from Bridgestone 020 to 014 (stickier) tires and the squirmy rear end is more noticeable particularly during more aggresive cornering.

  14. When you start draining the old fluid, use some Methyl Hydrate to clean the system. Then start adding the new fluid. The Methyl Hydrate will make sure that all the gremlins are purged.

  15. I'd love a test ride on both...........it seems to fit Guzzi guys very well, these KTM's.

     

    That's the other great attribute - this bike's seating position is so damn comfortable compared to the V11 (no folded legs) even with Ballabio bars.

     

    I think I'm going back for another test ride on Saturday.

  16. Holy cow - what a machine! This thing has power, handling, and SUSPENSION to spare. It handles like nothing I've ever ridden, and the power is very linear. Who needs a tach, just wind it up and it doesn't complain. POWER everywhere. The perfect bike for twisty, bumpy, mountain roads - did I mention that the suspension is fantastic?

     

    Damn, now I have to figure out how to get this one past the minister of finance...

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