Cliff
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Posts posted by Cliff
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For those interested here's some photos of the inside of a 15M.
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If you have a USB PCIII. As USB is fairly new you're going to need to upgrade your PCIII.
Me, I've had accelerator pump functionality for over a year now. Not really sure how effective it is though as I never really experimented much with it.
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I suggest you go through a proper calibration of the TPS, by backing off the idle screws all the way. Also make sure your throttle bodies are balanced and you are using a premium fuel.
Then if required you can "tweak" the TPS.
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It may take 10ms to saturate but you don't need to saturate to get a spark.
I use 2.5 - 3ms of on time with My16M. The weber was around that also.
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Do the replacement relays have problems also or just the originals?
Easiest thing is to carry a spare relay or two. I'm still on my original relays on the Sport but I've just ordered some spares.
Actually if you were stranded at the side of the road, you could short both relays ( find out which pins ) to get you home. They're both just switches to 12V. You'd have your fuel pump running when the ignition is off, so you'd have to undo it when you get home.
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Another alternative
Disconnect the TPS and connect an ohmmeter to its terminals. Its just a potentiometer. Two terminals will show no change in resistance but the other combinations will. You should see the resistance change with throttle in a linear sort of way.
Another way - connect a 1.5V battery across the TPS and a speaker via a capacitor. Listen for that gravelly old transistor radio sound.
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I'm always impressed by the range of problems the relays can produce.
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Throttle body will do it. Its the EFI equivalent of balancing the carburators.
It's very easy to do. You just need a set of vacuum guages to do it. This can be one of the newer solid state gauges or a set of mercury gauges.
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You should see a screw ( 6mm thread ) on each manifold. My bike's the Sport 1100 but I think the V11 should be the same.
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You need to get some gauges or mercury sticks.
I did it for the first time last weekend. Dead easy.
You open the throttle slightly ( ~2000RPM ) and adjust the nylon adjuster between the two throttles, near the left throttle body on my sport 1100.
Also as you relax the throtttle to idle they will unbalance as they rest against their stops unevenly. You should also balance the idle stops.
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The relay problems tend to be faulty ON don't they? I could really see they would create a short.
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Buy a handful of 15A fuses.
Next remove the PCIII and see if it comes good.
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Good news Scott.
Quite a mistake on their part. I thought the official procedure was to back off the idle stops all the way to set TPS. What you should do is measure the TPS voltage now so you can set it in future.
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I'm not sure why you want to do this. Putting in an adjustable regulator is a coarse across the board adjustment. The same can be achieved by fudging the air temp sensor or TPS.
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The 5 bar is a safety limit on the pump design. Normal running it is much less than that, dictated by the external pressure regulator.
The same P8 manual claims 36.8 +/- 3 psi
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This is from the old p7 guzzi manual
Electric fuel pump
This is a roller positive displacement pump with the motor submerged in the fuel. The motor is a
permanent magnet carbon brush type. When the impeller is turned by the motor, the fuel is moved from
the intake orifice to the delivery port. The amount of fuel is determined by the rollers which adhere to the
outer ring while the motor is turning. The pump has a check valve to prevent the fuel circuit emptying
when the pump is not running. It is also equipped with an overpressure valve which short-circuits the
delivery when the pressure is over 74 psi to prevent the pump motor from overheating.
Delivery: 26.5 gal/hour at 44 psi with 12V power supply. The pump draws about 4.5 amps.
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You're correct. If you have resistor plugs you don't need it in the wires.
I'd just take the coil and spark plug/cap down to the auto store with you. If you find a small family business rather than the supermarket type of store you may find someone who knows what they're talking about.
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The only special requirements would be that you can attach it to the coils and the spark plugs. Other than that you could go down to your local auto store and pick up what ever colours go with your bike. You might want to get resistive type to help suppress noise.
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You can rip out the WM 15M and replace it with My16M. Thats actually a bit easier to do.The safe alternative is to splice My16M in parallel with the original. I think thats the way everyone has gone so far. That way you can use either one and you don't risk having the bike off the road.
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My bike is predominantly a weekender. I ride it all the time closed loop. I have about 10000km on My16M now.
Kent Polt in Texas, don't see him much on forums, is running My16M closed loop also. He runs his bike daily. The week after putting on My16M he went on a 3000km trip.
He finds the closed loop control affects his finer throttle adjustments when fanging so he sometimes runs open loop. I think his issues are primarily due to My16M not being mapped fully to his bike causing it to continually correct. He'll be putting it on a dyno in a few weeks.
Just the last couple of weeks I've made an enhancement to My16M. It is possible to disable closed loop for individual entries on the map. This can allow you to lock full throttle to be a bit richer, or allow the backoff to be a bit leaner.
I know the wiring harness sounds like major surgery, its a three hour job, and sounds like it would affect wet weather operation. The first My16M user rode three hours in the rain to get here the other day and there was very little water anywhere near the harness or ECU. To date I not heard of any of the modified harnesses failing at all.
The 2003 models put the O2 sensor on the crossover under the engine.
So perhaps you should all release yourselves from your proprietry connector shackles and be free
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I'm just thinking the dual spark and quicker combustion is basically an ignition advance on your original setup. The pressure rise will be more rapid. Perhaps the quicker combustion means there's nothing left unburnt to detonate.
You'll be the one to tell us if this theory is correct or not.
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I agree with you Carl.
You may be able to run twin plugged without change. The main problem is if your run close to detonation or have some already, it will be worse.
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Good theory but I don't think its correct. I modified the injector timing on My16M to squirt right on the inlet stroke ( The WM injects early near the exhaust stroke ).
So there's no to to fall out on mine. I still get the occasional idle miss when it gets hot.
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I don't need much pressuring. It wouldn't take much effort on my part to relayout the board to suit the 15M connector.
If someone can find the part number of the ECU connector and a source I'll do it. If you can find the cable side connector also I could switch over completely to the 15M plug.
Carl perhaps you'd loan me your spare ECU to look at so I can size the board etc.
3.5bar fuel pressure regulator - a good idea?
in Technical Topics
Posted
There would be a greater risk of things leaking when components wear.
I can't see any benefit to using them unless you were unable to get the ECU + PC to put in enough fuel.
Possibly the atomisation might be finer at higher pressure.
You could have the same problem as putting in oversized injectors. The smaller pulse required makes adjustments coarser and could affect idle stability.