Greg Field
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Posts posted by Greg Field
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The two simplest things (besides fluid that Gene already mentioned) that contribute to degraded shifting are: 1) cruddy, grabby, loose shift lever... quite easy to remove, clean, shim, and lube. 2) diminished clutch function - bleed the clutch and be certain there is not excessive play at the lever which could indicate a broken spring inside the master cylinder.
Otherwise, I would assume your gearbox has had the nefarious gearbox recall performed?
Yup - the recall has been taken care of. I bled the clutch fluid. I have not taken apart the shift lever, assuming you mean the hand lever. It does seem to be loose. More like an up and down free play, which just recently developed. Are there shims already in place at the lever or are they something you add to adjust play in the lever?
Adjust the lever so it's as far away from the bar as possible. Somethimes, that helps. A friend just rode my V11 to the National rally. On the way, he adjusted the lever all the way in, 'cause he has small hands. Then, he complained of horrible shifting. It was because the clutch was not fully de-clutched when he had the lever to the bar. Adjusted it out, and it shifts fine again.
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Thanks for the info, Greg
Well.
The used one I obtained from the dealership did not work out well
That hurts just looking at it. My sympathies . . .
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Ohlins no longer makes one but one can be obtained through Moto Guzzi. Order the one for the Cafe Sport. Expensive but you do get value for the money. Spring it right and set it up right, and the rear suspension will be better than on any of the CARC Guzzis with their fancy rising rate link systems.
Do these come with or w/out spring ? Can you use the rear spring already on the bike?
Comes with an 8.5 spring. This would work well if you're in the 150-170-lb range.
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Ohlins no longer makes one but one can be obtained through Moto Guzzi. Order the one for the Cafe Sport. Expensive but you do get value for the money. Spring it right and set it up right, and the rear suspension will be better than on any of the CARC Guzzis with their fancy rising rate link systems.
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Of the components listed, I sell more starters and batteries than regulators. V11 Batteries last 5-7 years, it seems. Valeo starters're junk. If you are replacing the starter, get the small Bosch unit fitted to the new Guzzis. It's cheaper than the Valeo, too.
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This may be. Titanium ecus f/i are often based on Cali ones, don't know why.
Hubert
What Hubert said. I have a Ti ECU with a Cali sticker under the Ti sticker.
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Oddly, or not, I find myself more and more disgusted with folks over "here," where ever that is, talking about those "over there," where ever that is. IMO, confront your tormentors directly, or just let it go. YMMV and all that rot.
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Here are the types of V11 forks I remember there being:
1) Marzocchi. Subtypes:
a) Silver with non-threaded axle holes on both sides and separate-side rebound/compression damping and adjustment (V11 Sport 1st series)
Silver with one threaded axle hole and separate-side rebound/compression damping and adjustment (V11 Sport 2nd series)c) Black with one threaded axle hole and separate-side rebound/compression damping and adjustment (Rosso Mandello)
d) Black with adjustment only for rebound damping and chromed sliders and holes for solid axle (V11 Sport with clip-ons above top triple clamp and LeMans)
e) Black with adjustment only for rebound damping and nitrided sliders and holes for solid axle (Tenni)
f) Black with adjustment only for rebound damping and chromed sliders and holes for hollow axle and of V11 Sport length (V11 Sport)
g) Black with adjustment only for rebound damping and chromed sliders and holes for hollow axle and of Ballabio length (Ballabio)
2) Ohlins forks. Subtypes:
a) For solid axle (Scura and early Rosso Corsa)
for hollow axle (late Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Cafe Sport, Coppa Italia) -
If you are having trouble with your relays. Some of the problems are possibly due to a faulty contact in the base. The attached shows how to remove the connectors from the base so they can be tightened by pinching with a pair of pliers or replaced.
The brass connectors are standard items that can be purchased at any good automotive supply store.
If you are replacing the connectors I highly recommend dipping the wires and relay pins in vaseline, this will prevent oxidation and corrosion and also makes it easier to get the relays in and out.
I have also shown how you can add LEDs to the base as a troubleshooting aid. I did this with mine.
The LEDs are wired so that they indicate when the relay contacts are closed, not just when the coil is energized.
Hope this is of interest
Roy
Nice work, Roy!
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Help,
I've been following this thread quite closely as I'am trying to decide which type of crossover to get for my LM but have to confess to being hopelessly lost now.
My LM is an'02 model with a front crossover but no lambda sensor.I have a set of factory titanium pipes and ecu,11;1 compression pistons[fastbyferraci} balanced rods and crank,polished heads with stainless valves and uprated springs/guides[raceco]and I've opened up the air box to improve air flow and fitted a K.N. filter.I've not done anything to the flywheel yet as I've read conflicting info. regarding lightening of the flywheel causing an upset to the balance of the motor and as I want to use the bike as a road machine did n't want to upset things too much.
Lastly I'am not an out and out sports rider so would like to see an improvement in the mid range rather than in the absolute top end.
What I'd like now from you knowledgeable gentleman is some suggestions as to which make of crossover would best suit my needs.
Many thanks in advance,
Andy Roo.
Unless you spend a lot of time in congested traffic or want to allow for adding a centerstand, the clear choice is the Stucchi crossover. I sell them both. This is the way it is.
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Welcome to our police state, Monkey.
I'd tell the story of the Mountie who stopped us just outside of Hyder, AK, but the contrast'd probably make me weep.
The bottom line is that you Canuckians raise more moral children than we idjit Yanks do.
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Hi, all,
just a quick question. I've a brand new Termignoni exhaust supplied with my new 8v Griso and wondered which other models it may fit. I know it fits 1100 and 1200 Griso and I thought it may also fit the 1200sport and 1100/1200 Breva.
All suggestions gratefully received.
Andy Roo
It fits just the Grisos.
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what about a Cali vintage?
Good bike. My buddy Easy loves his.
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Just this week, I got a call from a guy who lives in Arizona, about his filter backing off. He had come up to Seattle in September, While visiting our shop, he told me he had just bought a Coppa Italia. I told him the story of another Coppa Italia in his town that lost an engine after a filter installed by a dealer spun off. He listened to the story, bought a hose clamp, went home, and kept riding his bike. When it was time for the next oil change, he removed the sump to get at the filter and found that the filter was two or three threads from falling off. He was very lucky to have caught it in time.
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Man up and buy an Eldorado.
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Let's see: Tontis would be any big block after Ambos and Eldos (loops) until the spines (Daytona, Sport 1100/1100 Sport, Centauro and V11s) including all the T variants and all the EV variants even those now being produced (California Vintage).
Quotas, Breva variants (including Stelvio), Grisos, and Norges are all different animals.
Loop: V700-Eldo
Tonti: V7 Sport-CalVin
Spine: Sport 1100-V11 Sport/LeMans/Ballabio
Quota
Brava 1100: B11/B12/N12
Griso: G11/G12
Stelvio
Older Tonti bikes turn in quicker because they have a substantially shorter wheelbase.
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I'd forgotten how big the high school hockey tournament is in Minnesota. It's been awhile since I've been home.
Congratulations on the win!
Second that. I remember, too. Congrats. Fucking Minnescrotans're almost Canuckian in their passion for that sport.
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It's been filtering down through the grapevine that our favorite redneck passed away this weekend.
I'll miss him, and I'd bet some of you will, too.
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There are two issues:
1) Rotors that are two thin can break. I doubt this would happen at the thicknesses you describe.
2) The thinner the rotors, the farther extended the caliper pucks are. If they extend too far, too little puck shoulder is left inside the caliper, so the pucks can start to cock and then wear the caliper bores unevenly or even jam. As your rotors wear thin, it's a good idea to replace the pads often, to maximize the amount of puck left in the bore. You could also make shims for the back side of the pads to do the same thing.
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Congratulations!
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You clearly are blinded by groupthink and haven't yet bloviated your obfuscator adequately. What are you you, some sort of Commie agitator?
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That is very funny! Thanks!
Yes. Just stick a fork in this site. It's done.
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Being particularly thick I've tried to understand the majority of the above posts re. clutch noise and have to confess that I,am still non the wiser.I,am pretty new to the forum and still don't know if some people are being serious or merely taking the piss out of one another.Probably a little from column A and a little from column B.
Just to give my non technical findings, my '03 LeMan is quite noisy,my '01 Rosso Mandello is very noisy,my '07 1500mile California Vintage is slightly noisy and my '88 136000 mile BMW R100RT is silent.I don't get my new Griso 8v until tomorrow so I can't comment on it.As far as I'am concerned the Guzzi's may be noisy but that's what makes them feel alive.The BM's good but it's just a bike.
For all you techie types out there-if i was to make a heavier thicker flywheel would this reduce the clutch noise and make the motor smoother? If so give me some dimensions and I'll make a new flywheel and try it out.
greetings from planet Earth,
Andy Roo.
No need to make one. Put an older, heavier flywheel in, and the noise will magically disappear. It won't change your firing order, though, so any reduction in noise is purely imaginary.
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Uh-huh. And yet:
No explanation for this^.
And no answers to any of my simple Q's (again). . .
The liquor logic continues. . .
Well, until I pointed out the obvious, that it's flywheel weight and not firing order and that the six-speed contributes, you had not considered either thing. I'll leave the Square Wheels Riders to figure out the rest on their own.
I have a theory
in 24/7 V11
Posted
I watch people sign credit card slips all day at a Guzzi and Aprilia parts counter. By my figuring, 40 percent of Guzzi riders are left-handed, which is triple the percentage in the population at large. The Aprilia motorcycle riders seem all right-handed.
I have no theory on why other than that I have observed that lefties run in packs. I was at a board of directors meeting for a motorcycle museum once where nine or eleven of us were there (not really clear on the exact number) and every single one was lefthanded. Very strange and comfortable at the same time.