DougInMA

Thanks for the replies. There is a slight leak at the regulator and I have cleaned the o-rings. I think what I need to do at this point is check the fuel pressure. On cold mornings last fall, gas started leaking from the fuel injectors. I replaced the o-rings on the injectors, but this did not fix the problem. I was assuming that it might be the regulator. How do I check the fuel pressure? Is there a low cost tool that would allow me to do this? Doug

I believe my fuel pressure regulator is in need of replacement. MG wants to sell me one for about 250 USD which seems a little pricey... this does include the aluminum adapter that attaches to the tank, but I really just need the regulator. The regulator is a Weber RPM 40. Does anyone know where I could find the Weber part or some other replacement? Thanks, Doug

I have a 2000 V11 Sport that is leaking at the T connector that attaches to the injector. I have had this problem in the past and found that replacing the o-ring inside the connector fixed the leak. Each injector has 2 o-rings and I have always replaced them in pairs. I inspected the old o-rings for any cracks or signs of age and have never found any. I now have the same problem again on an injector with o-rings only 2 years old. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Doug

You can count me in as well. The other Doug

Greg, Is the replacement LED taillight the same one that's on TLM's website? How much for the replacement? Doug

Bruce, I had a similar problem last summer. Remove the angle drive from the transmission and make sure that the collar is firmly pressed into the plastic body of the angle drive. The collar should be flush with the bottom of the plastic body. Mine had pulled itself away from the body so when it was installed the drive shaft did not turn the plastic gears inside. Hope this helps, Doug

Matt, The reservoir caps that I order from Ducati1 were for the 748/916. I ordered a front brake cap and a clutch cap, I believe the rear brake cap is the same size as the clutch cap. Doug

Steve, I purchased a set from Ducati1.com (carbon-trader) this past fall and so far I like 'em. They look like they will hold up much better than the originals. Service was quick from the UK. The front brake cover included new stainless screws. Doug here's the link: http://carbon-trader.com/cnc-916.htm

I am in the process of replacing all of my fuel lines as they have started to show signs of aging. I have replaced the fuel line from the pump to the injectors with EFI rated fuel line and now I would like to replace the line from the petcock to the fuel pump. I have an early 2000 V11 that came with a braided stainless line with an I.D. of 7/16 of an inch. Does this line need to be EFI rated fuel line? What have others used as a replacement? Thanks for any advice. Doug

Thanks for the feedback... I'll send out some e-mails this weekend and see what comes back. I weigh 185 and according to Race Tech's calculator, I can use anything from .85 to 1.0 springs for the forks. I'll update when I have the complete picture. Thanks again. Doug

I have a 2000 V11 Sport and I'm looking to upgrade my suspension with Race Tech springs. I've visited their website, but saw nothing listed for MG. I searched for a 900 Monster, which used the 40mm Marzocchis in '96 and '97, but they only have the 41mm Showa listed. I sent Race Tech an e-mail, but have not heard anything back. I know some here have gone this route, could someone point me in the right direction. I'm looking for a direct replacement for the forks and rear shock but with a higher k value. Any feedback would be appreciated. Doug

Jim, After the headlight is off the bike, you don't have to remove the screw to disassemble the headlight. The screw, square nut and bracket are only used to keep the headlight in the shell. Removing the wire clips will enable you to remove the headlight from the rim. Once removed from the rim, you can gently pry the glass away from the reflector. Regards, Doug

Jim, I just completed removing my low beam guard from my headlight about ten minutes ago… Mine is a Bosch unit, not sure if any others were used. Remove the headlight from the housing. After the headlight has been removed, there are 8 clips that retain the headlight to the rim, 4 on each side of the phillips head screw retainer, they look like a bunch of wires. Press down on the straight side of the last clip and swing it from under the lip on the rim. Do the same for the remaining clips. The headlight can now be removed from the rim, top first. There is a rubber gasket between the reflector and the glass front. Mine was merely pressed in place and came apart using a screwdriver and gentle prying action. Assembly is in the reverse order. As was mentioned above, keep the inside of the reflector clean and fingerprint free. Haven't had time to check out the resulting beam, so not sure how it is at night, I was never impressed right from the beginning so anything would be an improvement. Hope this helps. Doug