Ray

Good one. I like the rattley dry clutch; sounds like an open primary on a drag bike. Menacing and people tend to be intimidated when they hear something vaguely loose.

Here's the interior w/o the dash:

And I used rubber grommets (Home Depot) where the brackets attach to the holes in the fairing, as well as on the L bracket attached to the upper fairing boss. I hope I am stating this all clearly.

Here's my bike with the fairing installed - I have yet to repair it.

The top brackets mount to the mirror mounts on the handlebars, the bottom to the headlight mounts. This is the detail of how I mounted it to the handlebar.

I took the fairing off to repair it. I removed the inner dash when I fitted the fairing initially. Here are my brackets. I made extensions out of anodized alum bar stock to extend the BMW brackets. The interior of the BMW fairing has bosses that are tapped; I don't know if the Airtech fairings have these bosses.

I still haven't put it back together - I have yet to buy the fiberglas repair kit. I will post pics now that I have a digital camera.

Surprise! Last time my V11 and H-D Shovel were side by side, they appeared to have identical headlight lenses, 8" Bosch units. I have a '82 FLH Electraglide with the old aluminum nacelle, making this Guzzi part nearly ubiquitous. It's worth a try, and aftermarket ought to be plentiful. As an electrical part, however, it's probably not returnable if the dealer's a stickler and the part doesn't fit. I'll have to try swapping them sometime.

Please explain, provide link to manufacturer....

A couple other important details - my Tekno saddlebag mounts protected the tail section and also survived nearly intact, as did the Napoleon bar end mirrors. The whole combination really worked well to prevent more serious damage.

I generally used Jason's guidelines, but I removed the inner dash from a R100S fairing I bought used off a friend. I drilled out the copper rivets and made a gasket between the windshield and fairing with a strip of rubber. I attached the windshield to the fairing with nylon bolts. I used the existing BMW bracketry and made extensions of anodized AL 3/4" bar stock (Home Depot) to reach the headlight pivot bolts and the threaded (mirror?) mounts on the clutch lever and brake lever mounts. Without the inner dash, it fits well around the instruments, but there is some vibration only at idle. It doesn't bother me or affect the fairing adversely. Let me say that this fairing looks great, is affordable, repairable, and highly functional and comfortable to ride behind. It's a great match for the Sport. I think its the best solution. Thank Jason for pioneering this now-standard accessory. Unfortunately, I crashed on Sunday and scraped up my fairing's front right side and cracked it a bit. Now that I have a digital camera, I may also post some pics as I put it back together, if there is interest out there. Thank God I had not bought the Magni fairing. (I was cut off by a car who panicked when he found himself in a turn lane. I would have been fine, if not for the large, freshly painted arrows in my lane. I lost front wheel traction on the painted surface, locked up my front tire, and went down in an instant on my right side at about 20 mph. I am fine, with a bruised heel and pulled foot ligaments, and the bike had only minor damage. ) This is my welcome back to NY, and I'm in serious trouble with my wife, who doesn't want me riding in the city, and now thinks that motorcycling and parenthood don't mix. This happened in the suburbs, though, so you all be careful. (The guy who cut me off raced off to I-95. I was in no frame of mind to get his license plate.) All the bike's painted surfaces are intact - the fairing sustained the worst damage by far, saving my headlight, clip-ons, master cylinder, and who knows what other precious and unobtainium Guzzi parts. My right CF Mistral can has a chunk ground out of the metal skirt where it attaches to the pipe. It survived, and I think I can keep it, and make some cosmetic repairs. One of my Buell turnsignal lenses also got crunched. The fairing cost me $50 and the Zero Gravity windshield is unscathed. Another reason to use these fairings. I will probably do some fiberglass repair, sand it and repaint it again. (I was flat black to match the CF pipes and the rubber strip atop the tank.) I have also thought to use a repop '77 H-D Cafe Racer fairing: similar, but likely more expensive. One last thing I discovered in my recent "research:" these bikes survive minor crashes WELL - the impact points are well-designed and protected the tank, fenders, and critical systems. I was able to ride off on one cylinder. (The fin guards on the engine are shit - get aftermarket if you want to protect the plug, head and plug wire.) That's my recently-acquired wisdom on the subject.

PB Blaster and an impact driver with an allen bit did the trick for me. Got the old bolt out, but is nearly stripped. Rode from Maine to Brooklyn (350 miles) in the cold drizzle yesterday afternoon. Couldn't have done any distance riding without the lower pegs. I have finally morphed to fit the machine. Looked out onto the misty, green Connecticut mountains and really enjoyed the moment.

Thanks for the tips, guys. Maybe a poll on the time it took, if the trans works better, willingness of dealers to do the work? Seems like major feedback to give MGUSA customer service, with NHTSA oversight.

I have a set installed and like them. It took a few rides to get used to them, but they're the best $15 I spent on the bike (well, gas is better). I'd take a digital photo, but the bike is still up at my old house in Maine. Next weekend it comes to Brooklyn. I tried to adjust the shifter peg closer, but was only rewarded with clunkier, imprecise shifting, as others have noticed. I recommend you leave your shifter peg adjusted as is.

I have an affected bike, but I spent the winter moving from Maine to NY. 1) Is it worth doing the recall, as I don't trust mechanics trying to beat the flat rate. 2) Can anyone recommend a shop in the NY/NJ/CT area that is competent and conscientious? 3) When does the recall expire? Thanks.

The smoke signal are BUELL parts. See the well-documented how-to on this and several other websites, part numbers included.

Drill out the rivets. It all comes out. JB Weld is too light a grey. I filled the holes with black epoxy. (CF IS epoxy.) Not seamless, but if you spent some time on it, applying a few layers, it could be. (I just didn't care that much). Get to it before the mufflers discolor, though. When you remove the plates, the CF beneath is shiny new, and the area where the plates were shows against the area exposed to the environment.

Motorcycle Consumer News did an in-depth report on this a couple of months ago. In short, rates vary widely, mostly depending upon where you live. It pays to shop around, the criteria vary from company to company and are often imprecise. I pay State Farm a little less than $300/year with full coverage and a $250 deductible on my V11S. Not bad for an urban area, albeit one with a fairly short riding season. Make a few calls.

Jason, It was me - 'cause I mentioned it was a HD part....

My V11S headlight is identical to the one on my '82 Shovelhead FLH, both Bosch units - 8", I think. You should easily find a reasonably priced aftermarket one, maybe even at the autoparts store.

Up here in Portland, ME., they are currently devising a standard for measuring loud pipes --only for motorcycles, not F-150s. Expect it nationally. BTW, I use the race cans on the street , too.

--And then there are the Galassetti pipes, also depicted on this site. I drilled out the offroad plates on my round CF Mistrals, and filled the holes with black epoxy; not too bad. Hi, everybody, I've been here lurking, for six or eight months or so. Just got back from a friend's--up here in Maine, all we have is Speed Channel on Tuesday nights. Setting up my '00 Sport for the track school at Laconia on 4/25, but nothing too fancy.