Dan M
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Posts posted by Dan M
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Cool idea Jaap & nicely done.
An Italian beer label like Peroni would be fitting although you already put the time in on the Heineken.
I'd be in for one.
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Chuck,
Good one hooking up a brother.
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Moto International used to sell a kit by Motobits. Includes shifter and brake pedal. Moves the pegs down and forward. Good foot position and nicely made. Not sure if they are still available.
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If you are still looking for cylinder head guards, Rossopuro still stocks a few V11 models.
http://www.rossopuroitalia.it/index.asp?Prd_PrdType_ID=1&Bike_ID=1
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The most recent picture, with the Centauro engine
Nice! Much difference in performance?
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The spring appears to be a bit heavy. A lighter spring would likely ease shift effort.
That's not the way how this system, this spring works.
Hubert
You are right, looking again at current set up, the spring probably does not extend very much during the shift action. It is there just to keep pressure on the shift pawl so it doesn't fall away. The heavy spring will cause extra drag when returning to center after shifting though.
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Today's report:
100 miles of twisty roads in "sport mode" on. Not a single false neutral, nor burly shift.
I would say whether shift feeling is improving.............. or I'm getting used to it
Nicely done JB. I like the simplicity of the fix. Looks like a permanent one.
The spring appears to be a bit heavy. A lighter spring would likely ease shift effort.
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I found that the way the spring is shaped, it winds tightly around the shaft during shift action. Once it is wound tight, the stress is at one spot near the end of the bend, where it typically breaks.
If you bend the new spring slightly to relieve some of the tension, it will not wind as tightly against the shaft. The spring does not need to have a lot of tension against the arm. It is just there to keep the arm in place against the shift mechanism.
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Am breaking in my new Brake Tech cast iron rotors and so far they have done the job. Black coating has come off but that was expected. Good bite from the Ferodo pads, too.
Haven't done any emergency braking so far but all in all they worth the money spent.
Cheers
Søren
I've had AXIS (iron) on my LeMans for a number of years now. They do rust if it rains but clean up quickly after a few stops. With the stock pads, initial bite is not as strong but once hot, feel & modulation under heavy braking is excellent.
I'd recommend.
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I have a Tuono and a LeMans.
If performance is the yardstick then the Aprilia gets the nod. Faster, lighter and handles better.
If comfort and all around feel are what you want then it's the Guzzi.
You can compare the two to Italian women. The Ape being a slim athlete and the Goose more mature and curvy. Either can be stubborn with a bad temper though....
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I wonder how important it may be to "dry" the tank out allowing it to recover its original shape before application . . .
Let's hope this is a good solution. These tanks ain't gettin' any younger.
I think important. AF1 has been drying out affected Aprilia tanks and exchanging them with customers. They say a few weeks open and empty and the tanks return to their original size.
Sounds like a good winter project.
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First to look at the external linkage at the foot lever. It should pivot up and down, pulling a short rod which rotates a small lever pinched onto a shaft coming out of the left gear box side case.
Does the action of the foot lever appear to rotate the shaft?
All external linkage look ok.
Thanks docc
If all external linkage is moving and it feels like nothing internally is engaging it is likely a broken pawl spring. Although I didn't know the 04 model was still prone to this. A pretty easy fix once the starter and transmission cover are removed if you are one to try it yourself. Much has been written about this failure here. Do a search.
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I remember reading that WalMArt can specify its oils with major manufacturers, so you may not be getting the same base oils when you buy at the "guaranteed lowest price."
Here's a site worth a read for air-cooled motors: oils for Porsche
I would think it unlikely a major manufacturer like Mobil1 would reformulate without label changes for anybody. If it doesn't say something like "this oil specially blended for Wallmart" it is the same stuff. Too much liability.
Usually if a major manufacturer packages oil for a private brand it is the same spec with the private brand label.
Valvoline does this directly for independent auto shops and dealers. They have a parallel bulk oil line called Ultramax. Comes out of the same tank as the Valvoline branded oil but is less expensive because there is no company advertising or promotion involved.
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I keep the CarQuest 85348 (WIX made - 51348 equivalent) on hand - it measures 3.40"
My bike currently has a UFI installed and is due for a change. If no one gives the spec, I'll measure it and post when I change oil.
I have to think 1/4" is not an issue.
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I have Diablos on my V11 now and they have been great. Before that I had Diablo Stradas and liked them as well. Early this year I installed Angels on my Tuono. They are also very good tires, great feel and terrific wet traction. Perfect for all around use. I would not hesitate to put Angels on the V11 for the next set.
The only negative thing I've read about Pilot 3s is there is a spongy feel on initial turn in. Maybe it is due to all the sipes on the front tire. Reportedly it gets better with wear but maybe the rider is just getting used to it.
Go for the Angles.
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Sorry, I was just trying to answer your question and thought I would throw in a little info on where I am coming from and how I came to my position.
I do accept that ethanol may be the reason for fuel tank issues, but as I pointed out the fuel tanks in question were supposed to be compatible with the ethanol and if they are not it seems stupid to blame the ethanol. I also offer up the idea that some people, including myself, have used gas containing up to 10% ethanol for a long time with out suffering these fuel tank issues.
There are a lot of additives in gasoline and they vary from location to location and from one time of year to another. The cause of the issues could be any combination of those additives, ethanol may or may not play a part.
I did not feel the need to say that there may be an issue as several people had already said that. Therefore I simply was trying to point out that some of us use fuel with ethanol in it and have no issues.
I believe there are a few factors. Different metro areas have different fuel blends and many change blends seasonally. Like today, ten years ago gas pumps were tagged "may contain up to 10% ethanol". In reality, before 2006 blends in most places had less than 10% A lower percentage had little effect on composites. Since 2006 the oil industry has been leaned on to get the amount of ethanol up to a full 10%. The warning stickers still read the same but the actual percentage is higher. At that level, we are seeing more problems.
On a similar note, E15 is becoming a reality. The pumps will be tagged as such and motorists will be warned not to us it in pre 2007 vehicles but EPA is granting partial waviers for use in 2001 and newer. In the partial waiver it lists all motorcycles as "should not use".
EPA on E15: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/additive/e15/#use
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The effects of ethanol are not just speculation. Industry professionals agree it attacks plastics and fiberglass. It is pretty well documented by ASE. Manufacturers that use composite fuel tanks that have been deforming have blamed ethanol content. The boat industry is also having issues. Evenrude has a pretty good explanation here: http://www.evinrude-parts.com/boat_ethanol_danger_precaution.html
The engines can run just fine on 10% ethanol. The problem with the stuff is it's long term effect on composites and once composits start to degrade what it does to the rest of the fuel system.
More actual Ethanol info here: http://www.worldofmolecules.com/fuels/ethanol.htm
And here by Toyota showing permeation of E10 on various plastics: http://www.arb.ca.gov/fuels/gasoline/carfg3/toyota_prstn.pdf
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I did an interchange. Here's a couple more:
A/C Delco PF53
Car Quest 85348(premium) / R85348(economy)- both made by WIX
HIC CF3614
Very common filter.
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Just an FYI. I've had Mike's pistons in my bike for several years now. My bike never pings. There is a noticeable power increase in the 5000-8000 RPM range. They are drop in. If you hone, just a quick, light ball hone as a clean up. You don't want to go through the coating.
Recommended mod.
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Finally a good use for the "enlarge image" button.
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Have you seen this tread Jaap? http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=47074.0
Now I have, but to be honest, I don't get your point. I have a really nice G/F who let's me do the M/C thing as much as I want/need.
My point only is that I hate those artificial romantic story lines, that don't belong in those films.
They always have to appeal to the other half, hence the romantic angle.
It is a great racing movie. I have it and its contemporary, LeMans in my collection. Grand Prix is the better of the two.
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If the power line has circuitry to reduce voltage that is likely your draw.
I have an older Garmin Streetpilot that is hooked up directly and there is just B+/- right to the unit. No draw when switched off or disconnected.
3mA is pretty small. Would take quite a long time to run down a good battery.
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If your bike has an O2 sensor and adjusts fuel in any range of throttle and/or rpm based on what that O2 sensor says, then any adjustments you make to the fueling in that range would be undone by the system re-adjusting back to where the O2 sensor says it should be.
And Todd is pretty good with what he does. He possibly could re-flash your ECU so it does not control to the O2 sensor and then if you get the PCV and AutoTune module you have complete custom control over the fueling. That is what I got from him for my Griso and it is great. I have a PC3 for the wifes V11 but if I could have done the PCV/AutoTune option (not available at the time) I would have. It is worth the extra $$$.
Feedback fuel control is only at relatively steady throttle and at lower throttle openings. When the throttle is moving or opened wide it reverts to a base map and O2 input is ignored.
The earlier bike like Guzzimeister's 2002 does not use a O2 sensor so he can adjust via PCIII at any throttle opening or RPM.
:grin:
Long Way Down Moto Guzzi content
in 24/7 V11
Posted
When my riding buddy was battling cancer a few years ago I bought him the set of both LWD and LWA. It is a great series to watch when you can't ride.
Since then I watched an early episode of LWD with my wife. She got hooked too. I ended up buying the series for myself as well.