Troy
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Posts posted by Troy
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I should have clarified that the drawing was presented in the forum some time ago. I expected someone might recognize it. Not my work. I'm presently trying to disassemble mine and hopefully learn how they work. I'm trying to understand the pictures and procedures in the shop manual so as to minimize dumb questions to the forum.
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Is this helpful?
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I'm late to the party here. I haven't plugged in hardware nor loaded drivers yet, but My blue vag 409.1 cable and Fiat adapter couldn't have worked as delivered due to an incomplete ground path.
It appears that only the "K" and "L" line functions apply here, with IAW15 pins 9 and 10 passing through Fiat cable pins 3 and 1 to the OBDII connector pins 7 and 15 respectively. Additionally the blue cable needs 12Volts and ground via the red and the black alligator clips respectively, to OBDII pin 16 and pins 4/5.
My problem was that the Fiat cable ground only goes to OBDII connector pin 5, while the blue adaptor cable ground circuit only went to OBDII connector pin 4. So the board in the blue cable couldn't be powered up and the K and L signal levels had no reference.
My fix was to move the black wire inside the blue housing from pin 4, which went nowhere, to pin 5, which gets to IAW15 ground and battery return.
So if if you have a problem with the blue cable, this might be worth checking.Thanks for the good work you guys have done here.
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I purchased my headgaskets from Mike Rich, hopefully they were the .045 thickness because I didn't know there were two different thicknesses
He did say use factory (Guzzi) base gaskets because they were made better and didn't split over time, so I too went with Moto Internationl on the other parts I needed for the bike. They get the parts out fast and carry alot for a Guzzi Dealership! 
Also, how do they figure out the headgasket thickness sizing, is it the new gasket thickness or the calculated gasket thickness when installed
Mike
In a phone conversation with Mike Rich, he advised that head gaskets are available with nominal thickness of .060" and .045" and he recommends the .045" version to take advantage of the higher compression allowable with the new pistons. I just received ones from Moto International with part number TL300220600000 that measure about .062" thick, marked with the number 1.5, which I suspect means 1.5 mm thick.
Does anyone have a source and part number for the .045" gasket?
Thanks - Troy
Mike,
I just talked with Mike Rich and confirmed that my new gaskets are the thick ones. He didn't have an immediate source for the thin ones. However, he's restocking his thin ones, to be available in January. So I'll wait for them.
Thanks,
Troy
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In a phone conversation with Mike Rich, he advised that head gaskets are available with nominal thickness of .060" and .045" and he recommends the .045" version to take advantage of the higher compression allowable with the new pistons. I just received ones from Moto International with part number TL300220600000 that measure about .062" thick, marked with the number 1.5, which I suspect means 1.5 mm thick.
Does anyone have a source and part number for the .045" gasket?
Thanks - Troy
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I'm curious as to how this spring gets enough abuse to cause it to break, even with adequate boss clearance to prevent binding.
Early Mazda rotary engines had a problem with cross bolts failing due to fatigue caused by mechanical resonance. The solution was to coat the bolts, or to enlarge the bolts to take away the space around the bolts to damp or prevent lateral movement.
Is it possible the pawl spring could be vibrating to the point of metal fatigue. If so, would it be worth while to set the spring and pawl up on a fixture and excite the fixture with a variable speed electric motor with an eccentric weight, to see what happens. Maybe just thumping the fixture with a rubber mallet could show if the spring is prone to resonate.
I'm not presently able to pursue this but maybe someone here is equipped to look into it. If we got really lucky maybe the problem could be fixed with something like a teflon bushing between the boss and the spring coils.
What do you think?
Troy
So yours broke at the coil, not at the end hook. Did you measure the diameter of the boss that the coil fits around on the pawl arm? 15mm or 16mm
What diameter is the old spring coil?
What diameter is the new spring coil?
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Placed my order with Mike Rich today.
Thanks, Troy
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Mike,
I'm in for a set.
Troy
Agreed, I can even see the prices of the pistons going up higher the way the economy is going (I need to stop watching the news)
Hopefully others will be interested as I can't really justify buying a few sets to shelve.
So far, I need a set and ScuRoo would like a set, anyone else? I will give it a week or two to see where this goes.
Mike
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Mike, My '03 Sport has about 170 miles on the engine. Following advice on this forum, I've accelerated hard a few times to try to seat the rings.
I assume I'm still early in the break in process.
What, if any, preparation of the cylinder walls would be needed for me to install the new Mike Rich pistons?
Thanks, Troy
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Maybe the injector is stuck open?
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FYI --
While tramping about ebay earlier this week, came across a too-good-to-pass-up deal on Caberg full face helmets. SeeMS the American distributor wasn't getting the job done -- so Caberg pulled the plug on them.
An Ohio company (Iron Pony) bought all their product, and is now selling these helmets (which I only see at the local BMW dealer when I drop by to gently touch the K bikes) at $99.00 apiece.
Got one. Fit and finish is superb -- and the internal sun shade is a blessing to my green, hyper-light-sensitive eyes.
Just go to ebay and put in "Caberg." At this price, I think I'll buy a few extras and store them for future use.
Happy shopping...
v50
Iron Pony has replacement visors for the Caberg 104 Solo on ebay for $28.00 shipped. It's item 370048405660.
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I'm sure Pete will re-think this one and agree. 
I see what you two are saying in that once you are into a turn, the oil surface stays flat with the sump. But If you countersteer hard to initiate a left turn won't the oil momentarily try to stay on the left side of the sump?
I think Pete has a point.
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Yes. Direct = 1:1, but also 1:2 or 1:x. I mean simply that flow rate is a function of volume over time, and there is NO KNOWN correlation between flow rate and pressure without knowing the RESISTANCE to flow (in this case, for practical purposes, the resistance to flow is provided by the injector nozzles). So a given percentage change in fuel pressure DOES NOT necessarily -- make that WILL NOT EVER -- translate to the same percentage change in fuel flow rate (delivery at the injectors), as has been suggested.
SOURCE: U. of Florida UF/IFAS, Orifice Equations and Tables linked here:
Ratchet, your orifice equation exhibits the same characteristic as a fuel injector. The last term in the flow equation you referenced is the square root of the water column height. Water column height is proportional to pressure. So the flow rate is proportional to the square root of pressure.
In an earlier post which I can't locate, John quoted this same relationship for our fuel injectors.
(Flow rate 2 / Flow rate 1) = Root(2) of (P2 / P1)
Go here and plug in values to prove it to yourself. If you double the pressure, the flow increases by 41%.
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I understand carbon fiber doesn't do well with UV rays. Somewhere in the mass of infomation I've digested (indigested?) on this site I thought I'd read a thread on a product that will protect carbon fiber, but was unable to find it.Anyone able to help? Thanks
Might this do it? I have no experience with the stuff myself.
http://www.303products.com/tech/index.cfm?...;Product_ID=428
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To make the math simple, assuming a weight of 600 pounds at a center of gravity 2 feet above the ground, to calculate the force required at the contact patch to lift that weight, one must know the horizontal distance from the contact patch to the center of gravity. Let's assume that's 3 feet. The torque applied by gravity about the axis of the contact patch is then 600 X 3 feet, or 1800 foot pounds. The force required at the contact patch to offset that is 1800 foot pounds divided by 2 feet, or 900 pounds.
John, I was surprised on going through these numbers that the rear tire exhibited a coefficient of friction near one. But your iteration gets a coefficient of friction of 1.5, with a 600lb weight and a 900lb shear force at the tire patch. Is that one sticky tire, or what?
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So, 60 foot pounds would be multiplied by 11.7589 to give us 705.534.
I know my bike with roughly 60 foot pounds of torque can't lift the front wheel without a bit of coercion.
How much more torque can we get by popping the clutch?
We know it is enough to bring the front wheel up, and I know that my bike won't wheelie from simply giving it 705 foot pounds of torque at the rear axle.
It does seem unlikely that we would have to escalate the force from 705 to 1250 just to make the front wheel come off the ground.
Assuming my 1250 number is correct, that would correspond to 106 foot pound of engine torque following the owner's manual's 11.7589 ratio.
That does seem a bit high. The true force to lift the front wheel is probably somewhere between 1250 and 705 foot pounds.
Dave, I think you should consider that a. The force at the rear wheel contact patch is generating a moment around the CG of bike and rider and b. Rear wheel torque then needs to equal this force at the contact patch times wheel radius.
Assume the height of the CG is 2ft, (wild guess). The force at the patch would be (1250ft-lb)/(2ft) for 625lb. The rear tire has a radius about 13", so torque at the wheel would need to be 625lbX((13/12)ft or 677ft-lb. Your 705ft-lb then puts you in wheelie land. (But this is too easy. Maybe the front wheel gets more than 250lb and/or maybe the CG is lower than 2ft.)
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Wouldn't it be neat to have a meter on the dash to indicate current to or from the battery. The meter could read zero at the center for no current, (-)Amperes to the left and (+)Amperes to the right. You'd know if you're using more current than the alternator produces. You'd also know if the alternator is working harder to replenish excessive battery drain resulting from a long cranking episode.
Do you guys think I could patent this idea?
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Gary, that's a fine looking machine. But shouldn't the picture maybe go in the "Hooters" thread?
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This guy has interesting poop on bar-end weights
http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_faq.htm#bar9
He makes a point that added weight is most effective at the end, diminishing to zero benefit at the clamping area.
But if one has a choice, it seems that the ideal weight might not be exactly 12.75 ounces. Nor might the weight you end up with if you fill the whole tube with lead.
Rather than fill all with lead, why not add weight at the end, (duct tape?), until you reach a point at which resonance of the bar is moved below the offensive frequency, probably at cruising rpm? Then seal this weight at the end of the bar. Of course the added weight would have to be fixed at the same distance from the clamp as the test weight.
Just an idea I haven't tried myself. Sue me if it doesn't work.
Cheers
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Are all your software updates, er, up to date? Particularly Safari/Java.
The Update function says I'm current.
Investigating my problem I ran across numerous references to Javascript/Safari induced crashes. I don't know enough to comprehend this stuff, but it only takes about 10 seconds to disable Javascript. When I went to Yahoo Mail, I got this reprimand for not using Javascript, then it timed out and defaulted to a much cleaner looking email program.
After viewing the following site, I get the impression that Javascript is at best a necessary evil. So I'm not looking back.
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Gentlemen,
A solution to my crash problem is to disable the Javascript by going to Safari preferences and unchecking the Javascript box under "security". Maybe this will save Mac users some trouble in case my problem is not unique.
Thanks all.
Troy
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Working ok in Safari for me.
Is it only when at this site that the back button doesn't work?
No, It also happens at the Weather Channel site when I try to switch between 10day forcast and hourly forcast. So I guess it's my problem.
Thanks,
Troy
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about .008inch,(.15mm)
.008in is .2mm, not .15mm that I quoted in my earlier post. You'd think I would have caught this with the valve clearances, .006in (.15mm) and .008in (.2mm), having been listed so often.
Sorry.
Troy
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If things don't work as they should let us know.
Paul,
With the upgraded forum, my Safari browser crashes/ closes when I try to return from within the posts back to the main site by clicking the back button. I'm using a Mac Ibook with OS X Panther.
Maybe jt's my machine if no one else has the problem.
Thanks,
Troy
What [music] do you listen to? Share your favs
in Special place for banter and conversation
Posted
Toots Thielemans has passed.
The Real Group - For My Lady
Count Basie Band - For My Lady
Ivor Thomas says it in his comment.
Quincy Jones & Toots Thielemans - Eyes of Love
(My favorite, more wicked bass)
Smile with Kenny Werner
The Getaway