Pierre
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Posts posted by Pierre
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I suppose I could have made an error and possibly been off by a factor of two or more
But, I think the only "error" is in the guesstimation, unlike your error in comprehending what you read when I wrote, "According to my calculations the weight bias can be shifted favorably, improving bike only bias by 59.23373970945032937478973832696367673746786 percent if the battery is slung in front of the alternator."
Which you seemingly read as, "According to my calculations the weight bias can be shifted favorably, moving bike only bias by 59.23373970945032937478973832696367673746786 percent if the battery is slung in front of the alternator.
Well, in a less than inspired moment I decided to end this bickering once and for all by conducting my own experiment. Shit doggie, I've got a bathroom scale so if Ratchet can do it, so can I.
Unfortunately my bike is now wedged half in and half out of the bathroom. Can't seem to move it forward or backward. Any ideas? Should I start a new thread?
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No, you have not read countless reports, because there have been few reports about the Quat-D at all. If you can't count, it is because you are not trying.
"dreadful" "horrendously" "NO top-end at all??!!" Come on Ratchet, get back to reality.
FWIW Slowpoke got a few more "measured" HP out of the same Quat-D that I regretfully traded away. So what you probably saw posted was my disappointing dyno.
Dave, I must admit your experience (though not a dismal as Ratchet describes) with its dyno performance is what turned me off to the Quat D. As others have noted (and you make the point quite well) there are any number of good sound reasons to prefer the Quat D - potential for damage, saddlebag options, weight reduction / centralization - all significant advantages.
I know of only one other person using it, and that's the guy signs in as Jedi on the SoCal list. Saw his V-11 with it and talked to him for awhile. He's modified his version quite a bit (second outlet, I think) and claims some pretty impressive dyno numbers. Have you seen his / talked to him about what he did? If it can be made to work, in every other respect (except maybe cosmetic, and that's purely subjective) it's a superior solution IMHO.
Thanks for adding some first person insight. I try not to bash what I haven't had personal experience with. I'm always interested in the hands-on experience of others.
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i don't know why, suddenly my side of the panel gets overcrowded. go leak oil to some other place ! There is only a small number of real hot bi anarchists chicks to be entertained by.
come on, go make your own group
Oh oh. Guess I'm gettin' sloppy thirds or fourths on the hot libertine dykes.
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... I would ask you more about this, but I am trying to go cold turkey on the politics.... and it surely reaffirmed my belief that we can do something to reduce the increase in global warming, and how enlightened the left wing and most scientists are. I suppose middle of the roaders and right wingers might not agree with that.
That didn't last long.
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Bearing in mind that this motor is being put together for 6 hour plus endurance races - not short circuit sprints - any advice on whether or not to trim something from the V11S unit would be helpful, especially if you've done it yourself.
Cheers
Graham
Graham, I had the clutch lighened on my '97 sport i. Not sure how the '97 sport i clutch pacakge stock weight compares with V11 clutch.
The text in green is taken from correspondence with Bernd (he's quoting prices - which I've omitted) at Stein Dinse AU. I don't know what additional weight savings were realized by taking 1mm from the ring gear, but that was done as well. So the entire clutch package now weighs
1. Flywheel ultra light 1068 gramm
2. clutch pressure plate light
3. clutch plate surflex 1100sp. x2
4. clutch intermediate plate
5. clutch spring x 8
this set up should make your clutch 30% lighter, from 5600gr to 3900
gramm
now the ring gear, attached is a pic, so if you find someone with a milling
machine, he can take the oval holes between the mounting holes out. the
leftover of each mounting tongue should be ap.20mm.,but all holes must be
exactly the same !!! the original bolt holes are made to take a 6mm allan
head bolt, that needs to be changed to 8mm bolt holes (allan head), you'll
need 8 new bolts, 8mm x20, highest grade you can get.
from the rear of the ring gear, that part which faces the gearbox, you can
take away 1mm from the clutch plate part..hard to explain..its the inner
part of the ring gear, its now 6 mm thick, and it can be made to 5mm.
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I have a plan...
LOL! Too funny, Dave.
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If you're going to be there, then you might want to sample home grown. I've always liked the look and design brief of this bike:
Derbi Mulhacen 659
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Glad you're happy guys.
Mine arrived today, Pete. Thanks. Will be installed this week.
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It is.Isn't the yellow 1917 Cyclone a "made in America" bike?
No connection that I'm aware of. My mistake - didn't read the rules carefully. Sorry. Hereby formally withdrawn by poster (that would be me - sheesh) as "outside" the limits of the contest.Not sure how it got nominated... Is there some connection to an Italian manufacturer I'm unaware of?Rj
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I have decided to start with an initial poll for bikes that are pre 1970, 1970 to 1979, 1980 to 1989 and 1989 to present. When this poll has run its course then there will have to be another poll to decide the outright winner!
I will post the list soon as to the bikes that have been nominated so far and will give everyone a chance to correct me. ...
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Thanks Jim. Very enjoyable thread. I haven't missed a single posting. Worthy project - I appreciate your efforts. Looking forward to the yellow 1917 board tracker receiving it's well deserved pre-70 award.
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So, an anachronistic old cellar whose time has long past will be no more.
Where's the problem? The music wasn't even that good, given that half the punk musicians (sic) could hardly play anyway.
Time moves on, and eventually everything is swallowed into history.
This from a man residing in a country with a monarch.
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I fly out of England tonight. I'll be back in Oz Thursday morning, I'll have a bit to do and will need sleep but I should be able to start processing payments and shipping the sheets early next week.
Pete
Thanks Pete. Tough duty you've undertaken over there. Sorry for your loss. I'm sure you'll be relieved to have this trip behind you. Some journeys are like that.
I'll check in with you next week. Thanks again.
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Pete,
Got your protoype.
It appears to be the hounds' huevos.
Let me know when you have your more important matters handled, we will be ordering a large batch.
Best with Mum,
I know Pete's had other things on his mind, but I'm trying to figure out if it's time to order yet. Anyone know if he's back in OZ? I think he wanted to know location to figure shipping prior to placing order, but not sure.
Pete, you home yet?
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Spotted this article then remembered this thread. All you ever wanted to know about squish ... and then some. Focuses on Harleys but should translate nicely to the equally ancient Guzzi. Actually that's not fair, Harley has made some interesting advancements in their head design (bathtub - angled squish etc.). Nice read I think
Lots of additional hot rod ideas in other sections of the article.
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Ok, it's gotta play against the Buells, but not the XB-RR, and the old BMW R1100s. What do you guys think? I think 90 rear wheel horsepower is feasible and it'll be heavy as the rules allow for 390lbs post race. I would guess that'll be the same for all the other bikes, as the rules don't allow for much beyond motor mods. Stock wheels, forks, tank, etc. I think the bike can be a winner as the class is HP and weight limited. Sure sounds fun. There's a decent purse and Buell and BMW are both offering contingency and supporting dealers to race the series. Come on, MG!
dk
I'm really surprised you're passing on the opportunity to move up a level by campaigning a V-Rod. Poser possibilities alone make it nigh on irresistible imho. Let's see - custom helmet paint job to mimic a beanie ... custom racing leathers to mimic "colors" and Levis - with prodigious ass crack sewn in. Sheesh ... how can you resist?
Now the ape hangers are gonna' be a little harder to get past tech.
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So who won bush of the year??
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remember this next one? I saw her from a link on this site a year or two ago, I think she won ass of the year or something.
That was Bush won ass of the year. The chick is Keyra Agustina. She was voted best in cl(ass).
Here's more Keyra:
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Spotted a V-11 (maybe a Tenni) headed east on Laurel and turning left onto 5th. Around noon today (Sunday - 10th) It's my neighborhood so thought I'd ask if there's a new goose in the 'hood.
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The cut dome of the MRs surely is a good idea, but I don't think that the so greatly enlarged squish area is an idea as good as the one before. Assumed that I interpret the picture right.
Hubert
Incidentally while I'm sure Mike knows far more about combustion cahmber design than I do I think that the squish band on his slug looks too small for my liking. In many ways it resembles a 'Big Valve' piston which are a truly horrid thing, ... .
Pete
OK guys - which is it?
Too much or too little squish?
More is better?
More is worse?
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With the proviso that I haven't done any internal work on my Guz yet,first thing I'd do is get good quality non-compressible head gaskets and measure how thick they are.Next,heads off and measure the old gasket thickness.Check squish with solder.Add gap to thickness of gasket.Use burette to measure chamber volume and calculate compression ratio.I personally wouldn't take anything off the heads,but I'd machine the barrels to achieve the required squish gap.
Mind now,measure,measure it again,then check again before machining anything.
After this,it's dual plugs,a cam,porting work,big bore kit,custom exhaust...................
BTW,this is just how I'd do it,best check with an expert how to do it properly.
Bernd at Stein Dinse AU told me (and he decked the heads for my Guzzi) that experts agree squish should be the width of a crushed (properly torqued) head gasket - I think .032 but I'm working from memory. Will require recessing valves - or deeper valve pockets in piston etc - but that's what I've been told squish should be.
In short, I'm blushingly pleased to report that according to the experts I'm blessed with perfect squish.
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Unless I get an answer,
here are the real world options.
Source of images: Al's posts
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;#entry36540
Looks like the Mike Rich pistons have a flatter top, or less pronounced "dome.". That should yield a better flame path. Not sure how he gets compression bump - perhaps a steeper rise resulting in a flatter top. Would require pretty deep valve pockets going that route I'd wager.
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I have just set up a paypal account linked to my email.
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The cost is essentially going to be $155AU per plate, plus postage. Until I get to the PO on Monday I won't know for sure how much that will be and obviously it will depend on where you are.
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Pete
Pete - I'm easily confused. With that email you can receive funds right now. Do you want those payments made forthwith, or are we to give you a shipping address first and then wait for the total with shipping and pay all at once.
I'm happy to pay for the plate now, and then send additional for postage when you have it figured. I think that probably works better for you as well - no point figuring postage for every joe who's "thinking" about it. But your call on that - just need to know the procedure.
I'm in the US so still not sure your schedule either. At any rate, if you want the funds for the plate only right now just say the word.
Thanks.
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He is now to the church, let's go on boys!!!
OK.
'... or how aboutOK.
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I bid you my goodbye
in Special place for banter and conversation
Posted
Seen this kind of thing on several boards recently. The right wing (self anointed non-whiners / bleeding heart haters) this side of the pond are, as a group, having a bit of an epiphany of late. And it has nothing to do with David per se.
Unfortunate, but revealing.