JGP

Does anyone know why the MG suggested procedure is to take the alternator off before removing the clutch? I am assuming that it relates to a complete motor tear-down and you need to block the starter ring gear in order to get the alternator off and once you remove that ring gear, then its not happening. As I have no plans to remove the alternator, then I am going to skip that step. I would be interested to know if I am missing something.

Easy to lift the front tire now. I guess I need to go do some reading....

Well, someone might, but I am not too worried about losing a beer...

It's 15 feet long...if you get one end off the ground I ll buy you a beer.

I think I drove through Leipzig, a long time ago, travelling south from Berlin. I don't want to just take the gearbox off. I want to just take the motor off and leave the gearbox there. If I understand Docc's point, for a little more work you get the gearbox too. But the only real advantage I see to that is to change the return spring, which I understand some have had problems with. If I can change that spring with the transmission in place and with the motor out, then I will definitely leave it in. I need to look into it.

If you can carry it out by yourself, it's yours. I will even empty it for you, so it's lighter. It was wired for British power. It was on a farm property when I bought it. You only see half of it, there is a second level that's held up by some big steel brackets. No idea where it came from or, what is was used for.

My preference would be to leave the gearbox on the bike and just drop the motor. Saves me juggling the gearbox and the motor and I am thinking the motor should just drop down on the motorcycle jack and pull out. But I have been wrong before...

I am thinking with the rod out, I should be able to disconnect what needs to be disconnected, unbolt the transmission and drop the motor straight down without worrying about the rod interfering. If I am missing something, please chime-in.

I finally got this out with a small set of pliers. Everything seems ok. Some light scoring on the rod and dis-coloration on the clutch end. Gear oil. Nothing catastrophic.

Great idea. I have never seen those before.

I tried another magnet. No dice. I tried to spin it by hand, as you can get a bit of a grip on the end of it, it will not turn by hand. If I can't turn it by hand, I doubt a magnet will work, at least not a magnet that I have access to. I can always get it from the other side, by tapping the clutch rod back toward the transmission, but I was hoping to be able to extract it from the slave side without splitting the motor from the transmission. Open to any and all ideas.

Thanks Pete. I did try a shop magnet for retrieving lost nuts and bolts, but it's not enough to free it. If you have had success with magnets, I will try a another couple of magnets I have from the kitchen and see how that goes.

04-08-6100 Clutch Control Cylinder. It is activated by the slave cylinder and activates the clutch control rod 01 08 57 30

I improved it to 1 MB. Any thoughts on removing the clutch piston?

I used a on-line service that shrinks jpeg files. Seemed to work ok.

To get back to the nuts and bolts of this....I am debating whether to pull just motor or, motor and trans. I would be interested to know if there a way to remove the clutch cylinder from the rear of the trans. I have tried a couple of things but it appears to be reluctant to exit through the slave cylinder opening. I would like to look at the pushrod and seals before I dive into engine removal.

Thanks. Good to know. I will give them a call.

I am likely headed in this direction-single-plate clutch replacement. Could someone please link to or provide some sort of identifier for the specific RAM clutch that is being swapped-in for the original single-plate clutches? Thanks.

No, it's not the bleeder. If the slave is off the bike and you activate the clutch, it sweats or weeps a little around the plunger. Very slight, but clearly the o ring(s) are starting to go. There is a little corrosion on the clutch control cylinder and the face of the slave plunger, but very slight, more like discoloration than corrosion. You have to consider, all of these o rings are now pushing 25 years old.

I suppose if someone put enough time and energy into it, those o-rings must be available somewhere. Lots of o-rings in the world....My old slave looks fine and I think it still functions properly, but it is starting to "sweat" a little when activated so, it's heading in a southernly direction. It could easily be rebuilt if the o-rings could be matched.

The slave is a bone-simple device with 2 component parts. What I would call the block and the plunger. Within the block is at least 1 very thin seal could be 2. If you put a little compressed air to the hydraulic line inlet the plunger will pop right out. Not too much air, it does not take a lot. If I press on my slave which is part number 01 08 63 30, and built by Grimeca it will slide down into the bore of the block about 3/16" or more. It will extend from the block about a 3/4" or so before it will come free from the block. Not sure if that answers your question. I think the V11 slave cylinders were all the same and not specific to single or multi-plate clutches, but others likely know more than I do on that topic.

In the spirit of full disclosure...I swapped out the new slave for the old, bled the system, checked the travel on the slave plunger and it seemed about the same as the old slave about 1/8", no weeping. Put it on the bike, pulled the clutch and tried to turn the drive shaft and it would not turn free. About a 1/4 turn each way before the gears take up the slack. Same result as with the old slave. So, I used compressed air to blow the plunger out of the old slave and dropped a couple of washers into the base of the slave and fit the plunger back in on top of the washers. Now its sitting about 3/16" proud of the face of the slave. I am thinking that before I go any deeper, I want to make sure there is no problem with hydraulics. So, I bolt the old slave back on with the plunger sitting 3/16" proud; which appears to be about the maximum travel of the clutch control cylinder which pushes on the clutch control rod. Get it bolted up, still cannot spin the drive shaft. I can safely rule out hydraulics. Now I am looking to pull the clutch control cylinder, rod, thrust bearing etc. I am doubtful that I have a problem there, but I feel the need to cover all bases before I hit the clutch. I will search this site, but if anyone has a procedure to remove the control cylinder, fire away.

Yes. Right again. I should clean the dirt before commenting. The slave seems to weep a tiny amount of fluid when actuated, there is movement, not sure if it is sufficient. The piston moves about 1/8th of an inch proud of the inner face of the slave.

Interesting to note, I am not sure what model bike that is, but your sub-frame cross-member bolts to the 6 o'clock position on the left pork chop. Mine bolts to the 9 o'clock position (when looking at the pork chop from the outer face). Not as quite as obvious to see that it is bolted. It will teach me to look closer. Thanks again.

I just confirmed. In your photo, upper left attachment point of the cross-member is bolted to the cylindrical portion of the frame through the pork chop. I had thought it was welded to the cylindrical portion, which is itself welded to the upper frame. Should be easy to remove. Many thanks!