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pasotibbs

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Posts posted by pasotibbs

  1. I bought some Rizoma LED signals. http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/product_in...;products_id=48

     

    Wired them up straight and all 4 stayed on continuously. SO I ordered the resistors http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/product_in...products_id=137

     

    wired them in 3 flashed one did nothing, 2 flashed 1 had some of the LED's lit...got frustrated and buckled the rear under fender up tried them again and now the right side works great, left side front flashes, rear does nothing (could be my connection) but I now have no Brake light from either brake??????

     

    Any wisdom for me....please?!

    Does the tail light work ?

    If not the tail light ground wire could have come off, I'd take the bodywork tailpiece off and check all the wiring connectors, it could also be a faulty resistor (I assume its 1 per lamp) or you've wired the RH indicator backwards (+ to -)

  2. Ha thats interesting you say Reboot had one in stock..was it a crackle finish one? They broke my first Rosso about four years ago (it caught alight). When I asked about it they wanted much too much for it in my opinion. My first Rosso did only 300miles so box shoulda been good if it was my old one. Surely cant have been after this time? Thanks for giving Jack the business,always feel it good to support people who try that bit harder. Anyone who wants bearings outa the ordinary could do far worse.( I'll see him for my pint later)! lol :) I used my mates press for crownwheel brgs,although it didnt take a lot of pressure to shift.There will be NIL play when its back together. mail me if you want a chat about job and I wil telephone you or vica/versa.

     

    I can't really remember what it looked like as it was in a box in the back of his van , (he was loading up to take to the Trofeo) I just reached in and gave it a wobble to see how it compared :D

    It could be that the big split race bearing is loose from new and this allows the Pinion to move slightly which then causes the pinion nose bearing to overload at the tips of the rollers and break up ?

    Looking at mine the centre of the bearing is only slightly damaged (by the bits falling of the ends ?) but the ends are toast, it could be if you caught it early and adjusted the split race bearing as Pete did in his original post it may be ok :huh2:

    I've still got to find a 36mm socket for the pinion nut (I may have to cut it off as you did and deal with that later) I'll let you know if (when! :) ) I get stuck .

  3. How many miles it done?

    I was told that it had a new Speedo around 5k and I noticed the wobble not that long after I bought it with the new speedo showing 5k so approx 10-12k , but who knows how long its been like that.:huh2:

    When I was in France last year I called in at Reboot and noticed they had a V11 final drive for sale but it also had the same amount of play as mine :huh2: I think that most V11's must have this fault to some degree ?

    I've just got to work out how to get the bearings out and the new ones in without damaging them :luigi: , this may be more than a winter project (unless its next winter by the time I finish :D )

     

    I rang Jack today and he is sorting the bearings out for me. :bier:

  4. I noticed the pinion wobble when I greased the shaft joints and as I used to be a car mechanic knew that wasn't right !!

    After reading Pete's strip down report I took the box to my local dealer, he said that all V11's had the same play and he could strip and replace the bearings if I really wanted but as I was going to the Trofeo Rosso I decided to leave it until the winter, but after reading your report I decided I'd tackle it myself.I haven't ordered the bearings yet but I have your list to work off so I'm hoping to organise that this week (its going to take me a while to remove the old bearings and find a deep 36mm socket for the pinion nut anyway!!)

  5. I think you should recheck all the fuses (with a mutimeter) as the break could be difficult to see.

    Its worth checking the battery terminals for tightness also, if the short was only for a second and directly from the positive terminal to a good ground point you shouldn't have damaged the loom as it takes a second or two to get really hot (the burning plastic smell and smoke usually points to that :lol: ).The ECU may not be to happy about it though :doh: ,but you should get Ign lights etc even if its deceased.

     

    good luck

  6. Is it noisey in all gears or just top ? only under load ?

    I seem to remember that the early 1100 Sports had an issue with the case hardening on 5th gear ?(I know your using a Centauro box but with Guzzi you can never be sure :D )

  7. Hey Tom, I've used the Harley paint with excellent results. Make sure you are using the Texture Black (98606BF), I think they also make a Wrinkle Finish paint but that's not going to give you the proper finish. The key with this paint is to apply many light dusting layers from at least a foot away. To much at once and you will lose the texture and get just a flat black. I probably did 10 light dusting layers and waited 15 minutes between each layer application. The final result matches up to the tranny paint almost perfectly.

     

    good luck

    jason

    I think I read somewhere that careful application of a heat gun helps the crinkle finish form :huh2:

  8. yes i noticed it..a pity the banner hides the front...well if harley now produces an engine for aviation..

    Don't Guzzi fit the engines to target drones for the US military to shoot at ?

    Its the only thing that kept Norton in business when they made the rotary bikes (in fact I heard that before Norton folded the engine dept was sold off and is probably still making them now ?)

  9. Thanks all...I will do some investigation just to make sure all is OK but I think you are right in saying it may be perception. I rode a bit today (the temp was above 15 degrees :rolleyes: ) and the more I rode it the less I noticed it. You would think that with 5 bikes of varying breeds and layouts I would realize they all have thier quirks and take some getting used to.

  10. I finally got round to stripping the old Sachs Shock :luigi:damper_rod_complete.JPGparts_order.JPGDamper_rod.JPG It was much easier than I thought it would be, except that when I unscewed the "Eye" casting from the damper rod it cracked around the thread :homer: (it was only thread locked on so it seems the casting cracks with little effort which explains a lot :angry: )Anyway I thought you guys would like to see.

    eye_crack1.jpgeye_crack2.jpg

  11. I had my brother waste an afternoon of his holiday in New York looking for one of the 90deg or 360 deg couplers that people here have said work well, but nowhere he tried had heard of them. The latest plan is to order from Mcmaster Carr to a US address (they won't send abroad) and then get it sent on to me in the UK, my brother has friends in the US so this should be possible.

    The web site seems to have changed since I was last there but I think the 360 deg coupler is part no. 1091K3 but I can't see the 180 deg coupling.

     

    Just found the correct page :doh:http://www.mcmaster.com/ Catolog page 2032 180 deg part no. 1090k47 and 360 deg part no. 1090k44 (more expensive than the other one I found by mistake)

    I found a 360 deg in the UK but it was £70 without the VAT and Delivery !! :bbblll:

  12. Sorry to raise this age old topic but I'm having trouble finding a grease gun in the UK that will fit the shaft drive nipples/zerks and the job is long overdue. Has anyone in the UK found a solution - if so please let me know where I can get one (I'm based in West London - ish)

     

    regards

     

    Tim

     

    I had my brother waste an afternoon of his holiday in New York looking for one of the 90deg or 360 deg couplers that people here have said work well, but nowhere he tried had heard of them. The latest plan is to order from Mcmaster Carr to a US address (they won't send abroad) and then get it sent on to me in the UK, my brother has friends in the US so this should be possible.

    The web site seems to have changed since I was last there but I think the 360 deg coupler is part no. 1091K3 but I can't see the 180 deg coupling.

  13. I had this problem also, if you strip the master cylinder you'll find that the piston isn't returning all the way "off".As the brake fluid heats up it can't expand back into the reservoir (because the hole is blocked by the piston)so it applies more pressure to the caliper pistons creating more heat and so on, and so on, until you reallly notice !

    You should find that it isn't possible to bleed the brake or push the pistons back in the caliper if this is the cause of your problem.

    If I remember correctly there is a Nylon inner to the cylinder and the last 10mm or so needed cleaning up with some fine emery paper.

  14. It was Carnells if I remember correctly- wot used to be Motorcycle City. Guzzis were obviously just a sideline for them as they concentrated on discounting Jap stuff and went bust.

     

    Guy :helmet:

    Thats right Carnells bought Jack Woods business (Kawasaki and Guzzi dealer)and relocated to The Wicker site, they wanted a quick way of opening a Kawasaki dealership in Sheffield. I think that they didn't really want Guzzi so hid them in a corner. (I don't remember seeing them when I went in )

  15. guzzista

     

    Coils from an old Fiat won't work with the V11 Marelli 1.5M ECU. These only work with an ignition system controlled by contact breakers.

    You need to have the correct resistance in the primary circuit of the coils. Otherwise the spark will be poor to zero or the ECU ignition circuit will give up, which would be the end of your ECU.

    Additionnally the spark map has to be remapped to keep the ignition advance below approx. 28°.

     

    The 1994-1998 Fiat Cinquecento 1.1 has a WM16M ECU not contact breakers.

    Are you thinking of the 60's Fiat 500/600 ?

  16. Nice pic :thumbsup:

     

    I believe the rider is in fact Ashley Law who in addition to being a decent TT racer, was mechanic in a Guzzi shop not far from here in Sheffield.

     

    The bike was built by him and the guy who runs Moto Strada, Jason. I believe they blueprinted the motor and ran the crank and rods from an 1100 Sport Corsa. The exhaust system was custom made by Scorpion (Ballacraine has one of the sets on his V11) and the motor chucked out a huge amount of torque on the dyno (nearly as much as my V11 :D ). During the race Ashley was grinding the sump in the bends.

     

    I did a track day at Cadwell Park the same year and he was there on his Tenni and he was keeping pace with the superbike racers and pulling huge wheelies over the mountain- it sounded ace too.

     

    Guy :helmet:

    Which Guzzi shop was that ?

    The only one I remember in Sheffield was Jack Woods on Abbeydale Road.

  17. Hi all,

     

    My Scura has just started to fire on one Cylinder only. It seemed to kick in every now and then on the ride home but for the most part the RHS Cylinder is not firing. I changed the spark plugs but made no improvement.

     

    Im wondering if it would be an electric problem and if so does anyone know where I would start?

     

    Thanks much.

     

    Tony

    Does the plug smell of fuel or is it visibly wet ?

    If it is then your Injector etc is ok, if not then the fault is in this area.(I'm not sure beyond this point other than checking the electrical connections, its not a good idea to mess with high pressure fuel !!)

    If it is wet then you need to check the coils (on my Lemans they are under the tank at the front above the oil cooler)you could try swapping the Plug lead and and other cables from left to right to see if the fault moves with the coil (ie the LHS should now not work but the RHS does)

     

    Good luck

     

    Dave

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