guzzigray
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Posts posted by guzzigray
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http://teamguzzinerd.blogspot.com/
Thanks. A quick description: Sport 1100i engine, case finish bored to accept distributor, 41mm carbs, x10 cam, stock bore and stroke, Mike Rich heads. 80 Rwhp, 68lbs torque.
Magni fairing and seat. Mk3 tank. V11 headlight. Astralites wheels. Mk 3 frame with braced swingarm.
It's a blast.
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Love it! Where do you race her?
http://72.41.141.20/1100Racer.html
Thanks. Just did Spa in July. First race in endurance trim.
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Hybrid endurance racer:
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I'm getting a set for my racer. Mike will modify a set to match my milled heads. With bigger carbs and higher compression I should see a 4 to 5 hp increase.
He doesn't want to have 12 sets sitting around because it ties up money for an indeterminate amount of time. Simple business practice.
They are drop in because they weigh the same as stock. No balancing required.
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Latest latest
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Latest:
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Here's a Dyno chart from yesterday for my racer.
Sport 1100 engine in a Tonti frame. Mike Rich heads,41mm carbs, stock bore and pistons, Megacycle X10 cam. H crossover and JC Whitney mufflers.
Best results so far: 145 or 150 mains, 265 needle jet, needle clip on the middle position. 81hp, 63 ft lbs torque. Power peaks at 7300 rpm.
Tried 130 mains and power dropped by 20 hp.
The baseline runs were with 140 mains and the needle clip on the top position. Note the huge hole in the torque that was filled when I went to the clip in the middle position.
Next time I'll try 268 needle jets.
Yes I am a nerd!!!!!
What needles?
K4 needles.
I've since done another run but on a different dyno with 150 mains and 268 needle jets. With 110 race gas we saw 76 hp (it was a 100 degree day). I have some experimenting to do with timing as I'm currently at 30 degrees but with the 110 I'm thinking I could advance to 31-32 degrees. Obviously until I stick to one dyno and get a baseline none of this really matters.........
For what it's worth the bike will easily pull 8,000 with a 7:33 gear set at PIR which translates to 135mph.
Hoping to dyno next week and I'll post the results along with AF ratio readouts.
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That's nice figures.
Quite a drop. You don't happen to know A/F values too as reported by a wideband sensor? I wonder how much leaner it was running with the 130.
I don't know A/F ratios. Next time I'll be a little more scientific. I'm pleased with the results especially as the power peaks at 7300rpm. Definitely more power to be had considering the motor will spin safely to 8500rpm.
The biggest surprise to me was how one clip position filled in the torque curve. Obviously these 1100 engines don't like lean jetting??
Not that carb issues are anything you have to worry about with a V11.
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Replace all the followers. Don't use Mobil 1 for cars. Mobil 1 20-50 V Twin is great stuff. Lot's of Zinc.
I have taken apart 2 Sport 1100i motors and they both had the pitted followers. Both also had alot of wear on the cam.
If you replace the cam the Megacycle X10 is a good one. The V11 cam might be a good replacement too. I had a Ballabio engine apart and the cam was in great condition, much nicer than the Sport cams.
Obviously this is only my experience, I'm not holding myself up as an expert and there may be a perfectly good reason the V11 cam was in better shape than the Sports but it seems to my untrained eye that the Sport cams have a different, more 'peaky' profile and maybe the metallurgy is different. Greg can you add to this, correct me??
Regards.
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The listing is now "unavailable". Possibly pulled by Ebay.
He has re-listed it.
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I have been having quite the email exchange with the owner. I've politely pointed out all the proof to question the authenticity of the bike e.g 850T engine #, lack of frame # when repeatedly asked for it. The only response I get is "i know it's a Lemans"
It's really annoying me more than it should. I'm not buying it after-all but it's a shame that people do business like this. Someone will be buying the bike because they don't know any better.
I'm perfectly happy to accept that it could be a Lemans if the owner could prove it. He has now posted a sales receipt from Harpers on the ebay listing from 1988 with 24K miles. He is saying it has to be a Lemans because the receipt says so. That's all very well but engine #'s are the real indication... and it's not as if Harpers maybe didn't check??
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Just wanted to let everyone know to be careful about this bike. I have a feeling it might be a fake. I have asked the owner 3 times to verify the frame # on the right side of the steering head. Each time I have got an evasive/confused reply as if he doesn't know what I'm talking about.
I also pointed out that the # on the engine with prefix VC is an 850T #.
He insists it's a Lemans but without any proof. I'm not saying it's a fake but if anyone is thinking of buying it be careful.
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Sold my Scura a couple of months ago to someone who is a member here.he e-mails me 2 or 3 weeks later and tells me the Ram clutch is toast.I replaced the oem clutch @ 28000km just in time before it grenaded itself.The bike has now got 62000ish km.That means 34000km out of a $1200AU clutch.All I can say is,What a shit clutch.It also makes me feel like a rite prick.I thought the Ram was bullet proof? Mark
I'm surprised it lasted that long.
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ANdrew:
Congratulations!
If that breather doesn't work for any reason, the breather from the Bellagio looks to be a good solution. It tucks neatly right behind the steering head.
Hi Grag.
So far it's worked great. It doesn't look the most professional but it does have large volume which I think is important on a large capacity racer. I forgot to mention in the description that we put in perforated baffle plates about a third of the way down from the top of the tube. This was to diffuse the air coming in and and to separate oil (which could then return via gravity).
Thanks again for your help last year when I was building the bike.
Regards, Andrew. P.S, I'll be racing it at Willow Springs at the end of April.
P.P.S Just realized the bike Dr John is restoring is not his endurance racer but an interesting link anyway.....
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Very nice Graham.
I think we emailed a little last year. I built a Tonti racer with a Sport 1100 engine. I ended up having an ally tube made for the breather (see pix). Breather hose to a high point. Highest point goes to atmosphere, lowest point returns to the sump just like the Sport 1100 except I blocked off one fitting and use just one hose. I retained the oil cooler sump too Cycles4fun and it clears the frame rails no problem. I didn't want to use the frame breather set up (Lemans 3 frame) after seeing all the scale and hardened oil deposits that were in there.
I was lucky in that the Sport 1100 case still had a distributor boss and I was able to have it finish machined and use a distributor though if money was no object I would use a Silent Hektic crank fired ignition.
Graham have you seen Charley Coles website?? He has pictures of Dr John's bike being restored by the Dr himself.
http://www.zydecoracing.com/page/page/5079056.htm
Regards, Andrew. P.S I got 3rd nationally in Ahrma Vintage Superbike Heavyweight last year. (that's what happens when you show up)
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I need them for another reason I am using the Guzzi as a test mule for United States Patent US7299785
I have done a base line with a Power Commander III, Stucchi crossover and Mistral slip-ons.
Now the hard part I will first check apples to apples and do not expect much gain there.
Then I will start off by retarding the timing, increasing compression and using lower octane.
This will require modifying a set of heads to a bathtub chamber and a compression ration of 14:1
So the goal is to prove more torque by firing at +6* total advance, no detonation and a more complete burn.
I may have to abandon the Power Commander III for a Direct-Link Performance Tuning Kit from Todd as I am left in the cold to retard the timing..
Cheers
I have a set of crash damaged (to the fins only) Ballabio heads that i was going to ebay. Make me an offer and they are yours. I'm in So Cal too.
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Make sure you get your friend to pay for parts upfront. You don't want to be stuck with the bill if he suddenly decides to not pay you.
Some people are quite capable of re-defining the term friend when there are several K involved.
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Hello all, I have an LM4, and was wondering if a V11 engine and gearbox would fit without any major modifications to the frame?
Thanks,
John
Here's my AHRMA Vintage Superbike Heavyweight racer (almost done). Sport 1100 engine in Lemans3 frame with Lemans/ T3 gearbox.
Not that difficult to do. You'll need to use a Tonti bike timing cover and figure out a breather system. I'll be posting build specs and pix after i race at Willow Springs in 2 weeks.
Also major thanks to Greg Field who pulled parts from a motor of his to get me up and running quicker.
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Hi. I have a V11 cam for sale. It has about 5K on it. The Megacycle X10 is a great option too, very similar timing #'s but with more lift i think.
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Oh yes - I guess you're going the same way as me then
Current projects are V11Sport engine in LMV Tonti frame for the street and a roundfin endurance racer with chopped Tonti frame using a V11 Sport timing cover - very similar to this one:
Have a good look at the V11 clutch and flywheel components as I think you may find that they are lighter than even the most radically drilled earlier 8 spring unit - check out the figures at this link on Guzzitech - not sure how much lighter than a ten spring Sporti clutch though, but maybe a bit if it's the same as my V10 one.
This is a Tonti framed racer you're building isn't it? What gearbox are you using the 3 dog one from the Sporti - or something else?
GJ
Wow!! 2 bikes. I thought i was crazy
I'm going to use the 10 spring Sport 1100 clutch. Haven't weighed it but it's about as light as a lightened stock 8 springer. I've had a Ram clutch in my street bike and i'm not crazy about them and apparently the newer ones which i think are used in some V11's aren't that great either (or light). Don't quote me on that though!!I'm using a Lemans1/T-3 gearbox and yes it's a Tonti frame i'm using.
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Engines are all much of a sameness: a Bilabial?, Bilingual?, Bahooleyhoo!
is a V11, is a V11 is a V11. Differences btw v11s & Sporti are (to my limited knowledge): larger throttle bodies on the Sporti, larger intake & exhaust valves by .5mm (biggest of the Big Valve heads), gearbox & driveline differences of course. The v11 engine being derivative of the 1100 Sport got some minor evolutionary improvements, like moving the oil cooler up out of the crud thrown up by the front tire, slightly smaller valves to improve tractability, etc.So if you're building a racer, you might want to stick w/ the Sport heads & throttle bodies [44mm vs 40mm?; check w/ Guzziology, don't rely on me!
] for the top end rush, but everything else should be much the same.On a semi-related note, I have just been corresponding w/ Peter Morcrombe of Reboot Guzzi spares about the wt. diff. btw the Tonti & spine frames. Basically, there is none when you factor in the wt. of the subframes for the spineys! I had always wondered about why it was that the modern Guzzis weighed no less [more, actually] than a mid-70s LM I, despite 30 years of more advanced materials, etc. OTOH, using the standard "66%" rule for aluminum vs. steel, you could save about 5# of unsprung wt. by going w/ an aluminum swingarm, and another 5# w/ an aluminum rear subframe. That would help the aft wt. bias problem a bit, as well as offer better compliance from the back end.
Best of luck!
Thanks for taking the time to respond. After more head scratching and looking at parts i've figured a bit more stuff out. The Ballabio crank is a tiny bit lighter and is in better shape than my Sport one so it's been promoted. The Ballabio pistons seem to be cast and are about 2oz lighter than the Sports forged ones. Forged apparently is good and strong so i'll probably stick with those and have the others as spares.
I'm sticking with the Sport heads as i've spent far too much money with a certain Mr Rich to not use them. They are pretty too!!!
I was getting all excited thinking the newer engine somehow was going to make me at least 10mph quicker
but as you say the 2 engines are very similar. Regarding weight. I was at Moto Guzzi Classics today looking at a V11 torn apart. No wonder it weighs so much!!! All that extra crap bolted on. Big exhausts, emissions, etc etc. Think i'll stick with my Tonti
No offense. The only thing i'm making lighter on my racer is my wallet. -
Hi. Just bought the engine from a crashed Ballabio. Could anyone tell me the differences between it and a V11 and Sport 1100. The pistons are definitely lighter than the Sport 1100 and i'm hoping i can put them in my racer. Are the heads the same on all three bikes?? Thanks in advance.
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Great responses and thanks for the imput.
Guzzijack: thanks for the advice re: oem hose. I have the Sport 1100 original hose x2. I'll take your advice and weld up a lug to accept the hose. Yes i'm going to run the oil cooler (again , the oem one from the Sporti) The sump has 2 fittings for oil return. I was planning on using just the one like the newer V11's and block off the second one. Also i think it might be a good idea to put a filter in the return line. I cleaned the frame and its amazing the amount of hardened oil deposits and scale that came out!!!! not to mention swarf that will go into the frame from welding, tapping etc.
Motoguzznix: how much volume would you recommend?? You're spoiling my carefully thought out plans
Thanks again and please feel free to offer any thoughts or ideas. This is an important part of the project and i want to get it right. The idea of pumping 4 qt's of oil over the bike and a track is not a good one.
Show us yer Tontis!
in Older models
Posted
There's a good chance I'll be in Europe next year for an extended time. If that's the case I'd love to do some trackdays in the UK.