jtucker

My Carrillos are already on the way. I'm just trying to put a plan together on what else to do at the same time. My understanding is that Ferracci has some goodies on the way (hi-comp pistons, oversize valves, etc) but I'm not sure what the status of that is. I don't want to go overboard with it... this is my daily bike, and I put over 12K miles on it a year. I don't want too crazy with the motor, otherwise I'd be ordering up one of those Raceco cams that add about 20 HP. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

I haven't ruled out a power commander at some point. I have one on my Ducati and it works great. Dual plugging is a whole 'nuther ball of wax, though. Should allow the ignition to be retarded a bit. If nothing else, it will just provide for a better burn and better milage, but I'm banking on the fact that it will provide a bit more power too. BTW, a Stucchi x-over will eliminate the 4K dip in the power curve as well. I'm convinced that the first mod any V11 owner should make is to replace the stock x-over with a Stucchi. I wish I would have done it long ago. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Just trying to find out if anyone has ever dual-plugged a V11 Sport (or similar) Guzzi. I'm considering having this work done over the winter, and I'm just curious as to what hoops I'll have to jump through if I go ahead with it. TIA, __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

I put BMW accessory plugs on both of my bikes. On the Guzzi, it was nice... perfect mounting spot was off of the left exhaust/footpeg hanger, just below the saddle. Easly accessible, and very discreet - almost impossible to notice unless you are specifically looking for it. I only use it for an electric vest and battery tender. This location may not be the best for a GPS though.... dunno. The BMW kit connects directly to the battery, using a fused link. I think it is an 8 amp fuse, but I don't recall offhand. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

No... that doesn't sound right. I don't even think any of my torque wrenches read up to 150 ft/lbs! __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Hi Reinhold, I just e-mailed my fax # to you. Please let me know if you don't get it. Thanks, __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Well, I can't answer your Le Mans-specific questions, but here is some general info: Head retorque: I'm not sure if it's required anymore, but it is a good idea to retorque the heads on the first valve check. After that, you shouldn't have to worry about it - unless you are really bored and have some time to kill. Rocker arms: yes, you have to remove them to get to all the head bolts. Also, the top-center bolt is under a cap, and needs to be adjusted using a allen key. Clearance specs (US): intake: 0.002" (0.05mm), exhaust: 0.004" (0.10mm) Clearance specs (rest of world): intake: 0.004" (0.10mm), exhaust 0.006" (0.15mm) Note: the only reason the US spec is tighter is because of EPA regulations. Do yourself (and your bike) a favor and use the looser "world spec". And remember, "a tappy valve is a happy valve!" I don't recall the torque values, but I can look them up in my manual at home. For some reason, I'm thinking 22 ft/lbs for the head bolts, BUT I COULD BE WRONG! Rocker arm bolts are not a big deal... it is basically a set screw that holds the rocker in place. I've never used a torque wrench for this. Same for the valve cover screws. However, keep in mind that with the covers, the screws are going into aluminum - very easy to strip. I tend to err on the side of caution. Perhaps someone else on the board can offer some proper numbers here. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

If you find that you need the steering damper cranked up to get a stable ride, then it is possible that you need to do some suspension tuning. A steering damper can certainly compliment a well set up bike, but a damper can also mask serioius suspension problems. I found that after I adjusted my suspension settings, I was able to back the steering damper all the way off and still have a very stable ride. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Hi Ivan, Yes, it does sound like you are experiencing a relay problem. However, I don't think this is the root of everyones problems. For example, my fuel pump always works, and my bike will start OK when hot. However, about 10 seconds after starting, the motor will sputter and die, as if it has run out of fuel. Relay is not a problem, in my case. Good to hear that you could figure out your problem. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

The x-over that Raceco sells is, in fact, the Stucchi. Go for it. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

I've seen ealier bikes (ie. Le Mans III) with Delrin boots. Anybody ever see these on a more modern Guzzi? A couple times when starting my bike, I've had it blow back and litterally blow the throttle body right out of the boot. Embarassing! __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Michael, There are probably a few different options, but I decided on the folowing filter model: K&N RU-0600 round, non-tapered, straight flange flange: 2-1/4" (57mm) width: 3-1/2" (89mm) length: 4" (102mm) I think this filter provides the most surface area, given the space the filter must fit on. I've seen other filters used, but they are ususally smaller, or sometimes conical, which cuts down the surface area. Please note that you shouldn't try to mount the filter directly on the throttle body. The filter I specified needs to be mounted on the intakes (that connect the throttle body to the airbox). You have to remove the intakes from the airbox, and then cut off the flared end. Try to keep these intakes as long as possible... only trim off as much as you have to to get the filter to fit. Due to the offset of the cylinders, the right intake may be a bit longer than the left - this is OK. I also used a pipe cutter to score some grooves in the end of the intakes - this helps keep the filters in place by giving them some "tooth" to hold onto. I had to have my EFI retuned after I got rid of the airbox, as it was a bit lean after the change. Good luck! __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Actually, I tried to make the poll as unspecific as I could. The reason being that a number of folks that are experiencing the problme, have no idea what's causing it (like myself). Secondly, I made the poll as simplistic as I could because people are generally lazy, and if it takes them more than 5 seconds to read/answer anything, they just ingnore it! :-) I certainly agree that the poll could have been better, more detailed, but that defeats the purpose of my "quick" poll. I don't plan on writing a research report on the results... I was just curous how many people's bikes fail to run after they've sat for a brief period. Pretty simple... etiher you have a problem that resembles that, or you don't. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

The fuel pump does run. ***see note at bottom. There is spark. Not the kickstand - the bike does start, but it will die within about 10 seconds. Ditto the kill switch. **NOTE: When the bike starts, I can hear the fuel pump running. However, I can hear the pitch of the pump raising, as if it is experiencing a change in pressure or resistance. After the pitch rises, the bike will soon sputter and die. I have already put in my order for a manual petcock. I want to replace the electric one regardless of whether or not it has anything to do with this problem. I just don't like the idea of an electric petcock. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

TPS, fuel mixture, and sync seem to have *alot* to do with this problem. Whenever I take it into my mechanic to let him work his magic, the problem is completely eliminated. Unfortunately, it always comes back some time later. :-( __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

disregard this post!

I have to tell you folks... I recently installed one of the Stucchi crossovers, and it is absolutely amazing! Definitely improved the sub-5K RPM power of the bike. Highly recommened, even if you are running a completely stock bike. Stucchi did a really good thing when they produced this crossover! I can't emphasize that enough! Prior to this, my bike had two distinct personalities - one below 5K, and one above 5K. After the Stucchi was installed, the power is now nice and smooth accross the whole range. For the record, my bike has individual K&N pod filters replacing the airbox, and aluminum Mistral cans. The sound is amazing - I like it better than my Ducati (w/ Arrow exhaust). The K&N pod filters help add to the music, also. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Yeah... the poll has nothing to do with the "stalling at a stop" problem. Just as the poll says, this problem only happens when the bike has been sitting for a little while. He're my experience: After close to 18K miles, my bike did this for the first time. It was a hot day, and I was riding with friends. We stopped for gas, and hung around the gas station for a while. When we left, my bike made it about 100 feet down the road and died. After a while, it was able to start up again. Same thing happened the next day. I recently pulled off the tank to check the routing of the fuel lines, and all looks good. I even took the opportunity to wrap some of the fuel lines in aluminized fiberglass insulation. Unfortunately, the problem still persists, even thought the weather here in the Philadelphia area is not hot anymore! I think there may be a few different problems causing the same symptoms. At first, I thought I was experiencing the fuel vaporization problem, but now I'm beginning to think it is a mechanical problem in my case. Specifically, I'm thinking it may be a problem with the electric petcock, although I haven't been able to verify yet. All I know is that in the first year and half of riding this bike, I never had an issue, but now it is a common occurance. Fuel filter was replaced in June, but I may replace it again just to rule that out as a cause. What really upsets me is that autumn is my favorite season of the year, and as a result of this problem, I am unable to enjoy it because I can't trust the bike to take me any farther than wherever I can get on one tank of gas - or, to put that another way, I'm afraid to stop long enough to put gas in, because there is a possibility that the bike won't start up again for about an hour. Frustrating. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Suspension setup can have an impact on this as well. My front tires used to wear pretty badly. After I made some suspension adjustments (increased rear preload, compression, rebound, and front compression) the front tire seems to be wearing much more evenly. Plus, the bike handles *much* better! __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

I use Sportec M1s on the Monster, but mainly on the track so far, so I don't have a good idea of how long they last on the street. My understanding was that the Sportec was supposed to provide good milage. Maybe not. Otherwise, they are an *amazing* tire! On the V11S, I use Avon Azaro II (AV35/AV36). I really like these tires alot, but they can be touchy when cold. As long as you keep that in mind, you won't have any problems. Otherwise, the traction is very good. I've run them edge-to-edge (dragging kickstand) and never had any traction concerns. Oh, and the best part is that they wear like iron... my first set on the V11S got close to 9,000 miles on them, and I'm planning on installing the 2nd set this weekend. They aren't terribly expensive either, so that's an added bonus. Note: I have the 4.5" rear wheel, and I use a 160/60 tire - and Avon makes a version of the 160/60 *specifically* for a 4.5" wheel, so the fit is perfect. A good friend of mine tried the Avons on his 1100 Sporti and he is very happy with them as well. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

I use Agip 4T synthetic in both my bikes. One thing I wanted to mention: I was told by my dealer *not* to put moly in the rear drive on the V11S. When I asked abou this, they said that at the US dealer meeting, they were told by the factory folks to ignore the manual and just use oil w/out moly. They said they thought it was odd, but every time they asked about it, they were simply told not to use it at all in these bikes. So they don't. Therefore, my rear drive has never had moly. Currently have 90wt Agip in it. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

> Welp, I had the stallion out for a run today and upon my return I noticed that the taillamp filament burned out. I think its a >Philips 21W/5W bulb. Anyone else replace theirs yet? What's a suitable equivalent? Interestingly, I haven't had to replace this yet on the Guzzi. I have once on the Ducati... may be the same type of bulb, but not sure. Some folks on the Monster list seeminly have to replace this bulb ever couple of months. Combined, I've got about 32K miles on my two bikes, and I've only had to replace one tail light bulb. I consdier myself lucky. Go to your local auto parts store and try to find the "Long Life (LL)" version of the same bulb. Funny how they sell a normal bulb and a Long Life bulb on the same rack... given the choice, who wants to buy a "short life" bulb? Oh... and it's probably a good idea to keep a spare stashed somewhere on the bike, because odds are, you will lose another at some point. > I also noticed that the little red reflector on the right side broke off where it mounts behind the muffler bracket. > Obviously, these aren't major issues, but after spending a buttload of money on a bike its kind of disconcerting > to say the least. That's just your bike trying to tell you, "get this goofy-looking thing off of me!" Seriously, though... they probably expect 99.9% of owners to remove these things before they even ride the bike home, so I doubt they waste too much energy designing them. My bike either never had them, or they were removed by my dealer during the pre-delivery setup because he knew full well I would yank them off and chuck them into the weeds somewhere. __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Al, It was the old "going to fast on tricky and unfamiliar roads" situation. Ran wide in a turn, went down in gravel on the side of the road. It could have been *much* worse, in many, many ways. If the bike (and me) would have slid much farther, it would have gone over the edge of an embankment and... well, it could have been ugly. I was extremely lucky. I was able to pick up the bike, brush myself off, tape together a spark plug and keep riding. Fortunately, it didn't spoil my trip at all. If anybody else is interested, my pictures are here: http://www.sepa-monster.org/members/jtucke...0206-deals_gap/ __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

Oops... I voted for brake pulsing, but my worst problem at the moment is probably pinging. I also had a clutch disintegrate early on (about 7K miles). Replaced under warranty. I know of one other 2000 V11S in the area that had the same problem. The angle drive connecting my speedometer cable to the gearbox broke last week (at precisely 16,661 miles). Yesterday, the bike developed a severe stumbling problem... as if it is only running on one cylinder at times. I'm going to be looking into that more tonight and tomorrow. Hopefully, it is just a bad tank of fuel. Oh... and I crashed a couple weeks ago, destroying the wonderful Magni fairing that I put on about a month earlier! I guess that one was more my fault, though! __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport

John O'Sullivan said: > From what I can gather from Guzzi mechanics and owner manuals, the oil should > be checked just after engine shutdown with the dipstick fully screwed in. Actually, according to my owner's manual, the dipstick should be "screwed up" when checking the oil. Fortunately, the stock dipstick is thoroughly screwed up at all times, so no problem there! __Jason 00 M900Dark 00 V11 Sport