guzzi323
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Posts posted by guzzi323
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If you're taking names down, I'd take one too if they become available again.
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Though this might not be exactly what you're looking for, I use the 'Unread Content' link at the top of the page. I actually made that my bookmark.
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If you are talking about where the driveshaft fits onto the transmission output shaft, it should fit over both splines. The gap in the splines is there to allow the pinch bolts to function properly. The pinch bolts must be removed to get the driveshaft into place.
I hope this makes sense...-
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1 hour ago, Chuck said:
Since you have nothing to lose at this point.. try this..
Take your Copper Hammer
and a small prick punch, and put a gazillion punch marks around the ID of the bore. Leave the outer 1/8" unmarred so the bearing will start straight.
I've done this with success on wheels for a few bikes and used a gap filling locktite on it.
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Be gentle when 'fiddling' with it. My taillight completely failed one night when driving home. When I went to replace the bulb I found the bulb holding base that's part of the plastic casting had broken into a few pieces and the bulb was just sitting in a hole at the back of the reflector.
Luckily the part isn't too expensive.
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Earlier today Chrome was flagging this site as a 'security issue' but now chrome says it's fine.
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Done. Thanks for going through this process to get a proper spring.
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Though I doubt I could make it for the 'spring party' I'd like a spring to install next time I've got the time to install.
I had a warranty spring repair a very long time ago and feel I've probably been pushing my luck.Thanks.
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No need to remove the cylinder head. Use the old trick of filling the cylinder with string (leaving a tail out of the plug hole) then winding the piston up so the string compresses against the valve head. Now lever the valve spring cap down and remove the collets, cap and spring. Fit the light spring, cap collets etc. Remove the string and check as described above. Anyone who has done much work on aircraft piston engines will know this one.
Oh, I like this one. I've never heard of that trick before. Thanks!
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works fine for me, too.
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I'd think if it was a 'pressure relief' it would be not right near the nipple. I can't imagine much grease gets down the length of the shaft splines before the grease comes out the end. No matter for me. I'll just manually grease the shaft splines whenever I change the tire.
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I was lubing the driveshaft (off the bike) during a tire change and I noticed a pinhole at the back of the mid-shaft which allowed grease to come squirting out as I pumped it in. It's inside the yoke where it connects to the shaft. I thought it might have come from when I was greasing the rear fitting but I cleaned it off and re-greased the center section. I could hear it oozing out the pinhole. I think it's not a big issue as I can manually smear grease on the splines of the half shafts but it's one more thing to keep an eye on.
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In the process of changing out seals on the Ohlins forks on my Nero I discovered (or maybe buggered it up myself) that the teflon coating on the lower bushing is peeling off. It seems like it would be silly to not change this bushing. How do you remove them? I have seen a couple of threads where people talk about changing them out but wondering if this is something better left to someone with experience.
I just did this about a week ago when I replaced my tubes (80k miles wore through the titanium nitriding). If you've ever replace fork bushings before, it's pretty much the same thing. The issue is you need something long enough. I turned a piece on my lathe and screwed it onto a piece of 3/4" black pipe. Whatever you use can't have too rounded an edge or it'll have difficulty getting purchase on the thin bushing.
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I put one of these after numerous problems with the stock Valeo. It's been trouble free for years.
What are your thoughts on this Mitsubishi starter that is being touted as more reliable and more easy to repair if something goes wrong? Is it even an option for the V11? Scroll to bottom of the link below.
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I believe that's a supercharger nestled in the 'V'.
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Have you check your driveshaft yoke alignment yet? Mine was off and I had to have one yoke rewelded on at a shop so they would align properly.
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This sounds quite similar to my transmission failure from a few years back. I hope yours is a less troublesome repair.
johnk
Very interesting read johnk. how about an update? what is your conclusion after a few years? I will have a very close look at my shafts after reading that.
Everything seems fine now but I've been riding a lot less the past four years I think I've only put another 15K on it since then.
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This sounds quite similar to my transmission failure from a few years back. I hope yours is a less troublesome repair.
johnk
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II agree it looks like one of the ignition switch screws. I'd recommend taking a look at the underside of the switch as on my bike both bolts fell out (not at the same time). Tthen the switch slid down and got jammed between the headstock and the forks, severly limiting turning to one side.
For me, it slid down while I was parking so it wasn't so bad. If it happened on the road, I don't think I could have avoided a crash.
johnk
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I think I might use the rear brake accidentally sometimes - just by letting my foot get lazy. Or that I might use it unconsciously sometimes - carryover of dirt bike habits. A stiffer pedal should "cure" me of those habits. Anyway - I just had this hot brake problem once that I am aware of.
That was my problem. I like to place my brake pedal so they are right under my boot in normal riding and it was easy to be unaware that I was slightly pressing it. With this spring (I think it's an old cluch spring from my DR 350) it takes noticeable pressure to move the pedal.
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I think it might be the non-exisitant lever return spring on the brake pedal. I put a spring on it and my brake dragging problems went away. I also like having a more solid feel to the pedal so I know I'm not accidenally slightly pressing it with my large, heavy boots.
I use the rear brake very little yet before putting the spring on I was wearing through them faster than the fronts.
Where, exactly, did you put the spring? (a picture would be nice if it's convenient for you)
This is nothing at all fancy. I just cobbled it together with what I had on hand.
Google's new, annoying system make it hard to embed images but a pic of it is here..
This solved my brake heating problems. I hope it helps.
johnk
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I think it might be the non-exisitant lever return spring on the brake pedal. I put a spring on it and my brake dragging problems went away. I also like having a more solid feel to the pedal so I know I'm not accidenally slightly pressing it with my large, heavy boots.
I use the rear brake very little yet before putting the spring on I was wearing through them faster than the fronts.
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Some Speedhut speedos work off of a GPS receiver. You just have to find a place for the small'ish antenna to mount. It works much better than I would have expected except there will be times when you loose your GPS due to dense tree cover or tall buildings.
The folks at Speedhut are very pleasant and helpful if you have any questions.
johnk
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Am breaking in my new Brake Tech cast iron rotors and so far they have done the job. Black coating has come off but that was expected. Good bite from the Ferodo pads, too.
I'm glad to hear you got these. They are my current first choice for when I replace my rotors but I've never known of anybody who's used them. I like cast iron rotors and I like Brake Tech's design.
Please keep us (or at least me) posted on how you like them.
johnk
dashboard speedometer problem
in Technical Topics
Posted
That is exactly how mine failed. It was a broken gear within the mechanism. There are many posts here about installing a Speedhut speedo.
Your problem may be different but that's my guess.
johnk