raz
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Posts posted by raz
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I'm pretty sure you will find some replacement for that tube docc, just breathe through your nose and consult ebay
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Made in China WTF!? Did they retroactively own your country?
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Dammit that's (again) a brilliant description from Pete. He should be paid full time from Moto Guzzi just for existing.
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I'm notorious for Excel-masturbating when weather or light isn't suitable for riding, it's a good thing others get some use of it
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The WHB's do have a list on some page but it's incomplete - many settings are not included but scattered around at specific sections (which is good too but they should be in the list as well
)I collected all I could find when I had the 1100 Sport (all or nearly all will apply to V11 as well) plus some generics, see this page: https://www.abc.se/~rasmus/1100Sport-torque.html
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Just cut off the peg that catches the spring, and it transforms into what you want. I didn't dare it without a switch though.
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In the very short time I ran K&N pods, I could see a significantly worse air flow (up to 10% less fuel needed to reach same A/F) which should mean 10% less power. This is because the original filter box is tuned and the harmonics help the flow. I loved the sound and the looks though.
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Very sad news. See you later, Slavo!
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Edit - just found and tried Doccs suggestion (from another post) and sorted search results by relevance followed by "update" - this produced more relevant results including this one :
Here's a follow-up to that thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15408&view=findpost&p=171867
raz
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Hi Raz,
so how's your new cam working?
I actually have no idea, I haven't even checked valve lash since
but I will soon. I am mostly concerned about the rockers because I fixed them by hand. If they look worse now I'll just replace them with new ones but they were not cheap.With more than 100.000km on the clock I was aware of this, actually new lifters are ordered and some local shops asked with cam regrinding. Let's see the outcome. I believe that properlly renewed camshaft should work at least a year, consider it is a street-illegal bike.
Why would a properly renewed one only last a year?
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Just saw the sad news. I can't see how his helmet came off?
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Congratulations! I believe you should also visit http://www.centauro-...hpBB2/index.php - while the Centauro is a very different bike, it shares the V10 engine (and frame too btw). That forum is low volume but high quality.
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It's worth mentioning that there are two different types of gaskets used depending on age of the bike. I don't know if they're interchangable (I would think so), but worth asking the question to be sure.
As far as I know they are interchangable, the older one is paper and the newer is metal. The metal one is not reusable AT ALL. If you use that and, after properly torquing the timing chest, realise the little chain lying on your garage floor should have been in there, you need to get a new gasket. The paper one can probably be reused lots of times but personally I'd change it anyway (except for that chain incident) because it's a PITA to replace it.
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Does the fuel pump prime for a second when you turn ignition on? The pump is on same fuse and same relay as the coils (and injectors).
BTW check the fuses very carefully: I had a hairline crack in my ECU fuse, it REALLY looked OK but it was not. The giveaway was when I wiggled the fuse, the pump intermittently primed.
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Metallic rattle? Full floating rotors?
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Have you ever seen someone take a set of tires this far?
Cut the tire in a cross section to show him what "thin ice" looks like..... Does his vehicle tires look like this ? Probably not............
That is a very good suggestion and actually I would love to see the picture here too, please? That would be very interesting! Both rear and front.
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Maybe some/all of those may be what you need. In my (1100 Sport) manual some specs are not in the table but scattered around the book in the drawings. When I can't find any other clue, I use the "standard value" for the size as Guzzi lists it.
Side plate, rod beneath swinging arm 49 Nm (36 ft lbs)
Side plate lowest/frame to gearbox 78 Nm (57 ft lbs)
Engine to subframe, subframe to frame 78 Nm (57 ft lbs)
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Germany is so loaded with camp sites we nearly always end up at some other site than what we were aiming at. Then again, we refuse to use GPS and we are equipped with teflon brains so no matter how much we try to memorise a route to a camping, we end up going in some other direction.
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They last forever if greased now and then. Mine is like new after 80K kms.
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Diodes/semiconductors have negative temperature coefficient, meaning their resistance will drop with increase of temperature. When two slightly different diodes (they always are) are connected in parallel, one will be drawing larger current then the other and therefore heat more. As a consequence its resistance will further drop and it will draw even larger current, thus heating even more. Unless compensated for, it will eventually spiral itself to death, starving the other diode.
That's what I meant with "thermal death", and is usually the reason why two 1A diodes are not the same thing as a 2A diode.
Ah, yes. I assumed adding diodes that can take the full load. My point is there's no reason to hesitate to try external diodes as long as the internal ones are not shorted. I have a regulator that I'm sure has a bad (open) diode but it's intermittent so it looks fine when I measure it. If I ever need that regulator I will try external bridge rectifiers for sure.
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Yes, but only if they are open circuit. Its too risky trying to open the case and fix them, I have done 2 successfully but a third the epoxy was so hard I destroyed the circuit board
The diodes are connected directly between Yellow & Red so adding to the outside is simple and can be a permanent fix.
I sent you a PM
Roy
Thanks! Are you talking of "thermal death" if a diode is added in parallel to a working one?
When he said "only if they are open circuit" I think he meant it like "only if they are not shorted". Diodes often fail to shortcut, and then you can't add external ones. But this regulator is notorious for having the diodes fail to open circuit.
AFAIK there is no problem with paralleling a healthy diode with another one. Right, Roy?
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Set it at 8000 and you'll be fine. Mine is at 8500 at the moment because everything is 100% but I don't seem to need it. 8000 is OK and that was the OEM limit.
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It seems most of the EU has gone to the peculiar point where this is more of an issue ON track than OFF it. It used to be the other way round, right? I have no problems passing the equiv of MOT with non-baffeled Mistrals but afaik there is no chance I can use them like that on a track day.
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YUUUP, deal with it
then just when I have the right one picked out I go and buy the completely wrong bike anyway(ST2), I don't even know whats wrong with me
Wait, what was wrong with the ST2? Is that another thread?
Seriously, I have really considered buying one so all Guzzi-head input is welcome. Not that I should trust you when it comes to buying bikes
There's an app for that!
in 24/7 V11
Posted
For anyone having iPhone I can recommend the free "Guzzi Tracker" app written by Paolo Rocca, a fan just like ourselves. It contains information, data and pics for virtually all Guzzi models all the way from the 1921 Normale. I hope it evolves and get updates for future models. Nice work!
https://itunes.apple.com/se/app/guzzi-tracker/id1435726246?mt=8