raz
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Posts posted by raz
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Fargin' BRILLIANT picture!
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I chased some terrible noise for years, a ringing noise that I thought was chain related. I even replaced the tentioner (which was a good thing anyway) but it did not fix the problem. In the end I found out it was... wait, should I really tell this? OK. It was the frigging clamps between downpipes and crossover, hitting the sump. Man.
Anyway when I replaced my tensioner I took the opportunity to check what the chain can hit if no tensioner AT ALL is mounted. I couldn't find ANY chance of the chain hitting ANYTHING. I know others have told otherwise and I don't suggest they are wrong but maybe there are different blocks or timing chests or different length chains or whatever. I simply could not pull the chain out long enough to touch the case.
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Best Islay I ever tried was 17 year old Ardbeg. Normal Ardbeg is 10 years and very very rough. The 17 year one was very mild and sophisticated. Unfortunately I think the more matured one is very rare.
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Much cooler without water cooler: http://www.kompressor-guzzi.de/
Not that easy to fit in a spine frame though
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Before I start dissembling my bike, where is the ball valve? I took al look al the parts manual and the workshop manual, but there doesn't seem to be a ball valve?
It seems to me the spine frames don't have a ball valve:
40It's #38 in the above picture (Cali 1100).
Here's a V11, that ball valve is not there!
(Pics from Stein Dinse)
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There are a nut cover on the top yoke. I dont know how to remove it.
Looks like what I had too. It is actually just a plastic cover, you can gently stick a knife under the edge and just pry it up. It took me a while to figure that out!
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Adding a diode - if the fuse blew due to a short, then the same high current will flow through the diode and probably blow it as well. 5 or so amps through a diode would probably also require a heatsink and the diode would add 0.7 V loss.
You are right, but my initial idea with those diodes was to provide alternate feed if a relay fails, not a fuse. And sure, a diode will have a 0.7 V drop, but it will add 12-13 V compared to what you otherwise get with a failed relay.
I haven't added diodes myself, but I imagine one should be able to find cheap rectifier diodes that are big enough to cope with 5A without a heat sink. The power at 0.7Vx5A is 3.5 W, that's pretty moderate.
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That was the best looking V11 I've ever seen. The paint scheme was so cool on a naked bike.
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You've got the airbox still in place? This is a long shot, but on my 1100 Sport, almost all oil that may get out from the engine breather will end up in the left half of the airbox. This means the left cylinder will burn some of that oil and that smoke will go out the right exhaust (because of how my crossover is made, YMMV).
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That's a lovely schematic, Roy. I, however, am a complete rube when it comes to the training of the magic smoke, so can you do another schematic showing how to wire the relays so that the low beam stays on as well when hi beam is selected? If the road is dark enough to require high beams, it's dark enough to have both filaments burning...
You may be putting your reflector at risk if you do that. Too much heat. I may be wrong but you should consider it.
That said, it's just a matter of putting a diode between the 85 terminal on the high beam relay, to the 85 terminal on the low beam one. The "arrow" should point to the low beam relay.
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I never adjust valves without having spare gaskets on shelf, but I don't replace them unless they tear apart. I haven't ever experienced a leak but one out of five times the gasket sticks enough to tear.
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I did it. There are four of them, same seal at the top. Look at this.
I don't know of any drawings but it's fairly straightforward. After removing the screws holding the plates to the spindle, you need to file down the spindle so it don't damage the throttle body when removing it.
You may be able to replace the seals without removing throttle plates and spindle from the body. I think that may be better but then you will need to find an 8 mm Starlock washer as mentioned in that thread, because they can't be reused.
Do one at a time. Mark the plate with a pen before removing it (which side is up, and which side is downstream). I googled some generic descriptions of similar work and most of it was applicable.
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Couldn't find info from a search anyone know
Press the "MultiQuote" button on two or more messages, then press the "Add Reply" button at the very bottom of the page
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I don't think my bike has such a washer. I felt good knowing about the spacer between the wheel and drive! Any chance you could give that washer a measuring (thickness, inner, outer dimensions) so's I can get the $.75 version?
He'll give you that info for $6.59
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Sounds like a prime candidate for LED replacement. Any hitches [ie, changes to resistance/impedance/whatever making things go pear-shaped] to this idea?
You can replace the gauge backlight bulbs with LEDs but I wouldn't recommend replacing the indicator bulbs with LEDs unless really knowing what you are doing. Off the top of my head:
- The turn indicator (unless there are two of them) must have two diodes and an own ground added (apart from the resistor you always need for a LED), otherwise it wont work for both directions.
- The fuel indicator will not work unless using a resistor in parallel with the LED, mimicing the load from a bulb pretty much exactly. This because the sender is current dependant.
- The oil pressure light will be more prone to false readings unless it too is shunted with a parallel resistor. This because the LED will light up from any little stray currents from moisture or whatever.
- Same goes for the neutral indicator.
- High beam indicator should work fine with a LED.
- Charging indicator will probably work fine too.
If you have problems with bulb life, check your voltage at the battery with engine running at 3-4000 rpm or more. It shouldn't ever be 15 volts or more.
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I checked the header pipes this morning and found that toward the bottom where it connects with the crossover, there is a bolted-up hole on each pipe. Would they be able to use that to do a dual map, and not have to install bungs?
Unfortunately they can't be used; they are too small for a wideband sensor (I assume that is what they use). I think the existing ones are for CO (which is too slow for this kind of tuning). A wideband sensor has the same thread as your spark plugs IIRC.
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In that case I would guess a drive from a Centauro or 1100 Sport i.e. is better: Same ratio but more likely to fit mechanically. You'd still need some modifications though. From memory I think the number of splines is different from yours.
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But they do qualify as HomerS
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I got the idea of looking for "fotoguzzi" on flickr but that name was owned by some German. So I just googled a little while at it, and found out our friend has filmed Elvis!
Are you on flickr, Brad? I know BFG is.
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You can (sort of) get one cheaper by buying one 1100 Sport i.e. and one Centauro, then swapping fairings and subframes and selling the "Centauro 1100 i.e." or keeping it as a tourer. Everything fits, people have done this before. It won't be the real thing of course, just very very close. I'm not sure the Centauro have Carillo rods.
I've been thinking of this myself as Centauros sometimes come ridiculously cheap.
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One 'ARD way is to fit a Convert gearbox to your V11. That will involve replacing swing arm, rear wheel, bevel box, timing chest, camshaft and whatnot
But if you did, the result would be splendid. Ask FotoGuzzi (though he did it to a 5-speed Tonti which is a simpler task, though not trivial).
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Me too, thanks! Some really nice scenery there. Some day (like when I retire) I'll ride around for a couple of months in the US (as well as Australia of course).
LOL@"Nice Harley"
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Jägermeisters on tap
OMG that's almost as bad as the bag-in-box with vodka I got from Estonia
Rev Limiter problem
in Technical Topics
Posted
Among many things, a clogged fuel filter can act as a rev limiter. Another not too uncommon cause is solenoid (fuel tap) malfunction - the pump can suck it open but you will have fuel starvation.