Jump to content

dp.guzzi

Members
  • Posts

    67
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by dp.guzzi

  1. Apologies for starting a new battery thread.  My Westco battery needs replacement.  It lasted for 4 years so I'm not complaining.  I have used Westco batteries for about 15 years, and they've all been good so far, but I recently read some complaints about them.

     

    My battery is (LWH) 173 x 80 x 127 mm,  or in inches: 6 13/16 x 3 1/8 x 5, and I just weighed it:  11 pounds.

     

    I am not concerned about the weight.  I just want something that will last a while and will fit.  As you know, the battery lays on its side and if it is too thick, the seat will not go on.  I don't want to go the Lithium route, because I have read on these forums that the cold weather affects them too much. Also, I have BMW chargers and Battery Tenders, so I'd prefer not buying another charger, and $250 for a battery does not appeal to me.  I've heard good and bad things about Westco, Yuasa, Odyssey.           I figure that nothing in life is perfect, but if you folks can recommend a specific battery that fits my needs, I'd be very appreciative. 

     

     

  2. David, you sound like me: long time enthusiast, mostly BMWs and I have a 2002 Lemans (champagne color, universally acknowledged as the most fun color), and I too am in my 60s. I bought it new in 2006. It now has 33K on it. Yes, it has the bubbly paint on the engine but it doesn't really bother me. The only thing is the shifter spring (pawl spring) that broke at 5k and again at 24k.

    The bike is fast, handles well, and the engine sound is beautiful. I'm 5' 11" and the bike is surprisingly comfortable- much more comfortable than it looks. I also have BMWs, a Triumph, and a Kawasaki. I had an FJR (like you) but we didn't see eye to eye.

    • Like 2
  3. Happy ending: I finally got around to thinking about it. I realized that I couldn't push the seat down enough to make the lock engage. So I took out the two screws that hold the receiver part of the lock, put two washers on each side to raise the receiver a bit, and put the screws back. Voila! It works perfectly now.

  4. 2002 LeMans. I am original owner and it has never been down. 32K miles. Here's the story:

    My friend installed this awesome auxiliary taillight/brakelight for me that you can see under the license plate in the photo. It has LEDs and is very bright, and when the brake is applied, it flashes 3 times and then stays on steady. Great light.

    After a nice ride today I noticed that the seat was not locked down. I tried to lock it many times. I figured that the "pin" part was not aligned properly. I inserted the pin with the tabs on the front of the seat out (not in place, above where they should be, probably a dumb thing to do). It did lock though. A little trouble unlocking it, but I did. Then I put the seat in normal position and I kept trying and finally got it to lock. Well, you know what happened by the title of the post. I turn the key, but the damn thing won't release. Any ideas as to what I can do? You guys understand: if it was a problem with an arm, a lung or a kidney, I wouldn't be so upset. But this is serious: this is my MOTORCYCLEimage.jpg

  5. Re: 2002 Lemans. 27k miles.

    When I ride at night, I notice that the lights (headlight and instrument lights) get dim, then get very bright, then dim, then bright , etc. Not a regular pattern, rather seems random.

    As an experiment last night, I noted that when I honked the horn, the lights dimmed.

    No other trouble. The battery is relatively new and is charged.

    What could be the problem?

  6. Thank you folks. Lets continue, how many miles could I expect from this bike before worrying about the motor? The seller is asking $4900 which is a lot for me, but if it will runk 100k its worth the price. Do you think thats a fair asking price? Its right on the KBB value. Are there service records to ask for?(Splines?)

     

    I'm also looking at a bmw r65. I like Italian bikes better but the bmw seems to have reliability and longevity in spades.

     

     

    I bought a 1981 R65 in 1981, put 23K miles on it before trading up to an R80RT in 1986. The R65 was a nice bike, trouble free except could never get the carbs quite right.

    I bought a leftover new 2002 Lemans in 2006. It now has 25,400 miles on it. The shifter spring broke at 5K and at 24K.

     

    Comparing riding the 2002 Lemans and the 1981 R65: there is no comparison. Yes, the engine paint is crappy, but that's cosmetic and not really too important.

    The R65 will please you. The Lemans will thrill you. Every time you ride the Guzzi you will have a big smile on your face.

  7. Update:

    Yes, indeed, it was the pawl spring that failed. It took a while for my mechanic to get the replacement. I wish I had the time and ability to do it myself, but I don't. It cost $300 but it was worth it to be back on the road.

    Much thanks to MZNYC for his generous offer to help me fix it. Maybe next time the spring breaks our schedules will coincide better.

  8. I would rather spend riding (rode 290 miles today , very therapeutic).

    WOW... in 1st gear, good effort.

     

     

    My thoughts exactly. I would not find that therapeutic !!!

    Ha ha. No, the 290 miles was on a non-Guzzi with all gears working.

  9. Check pedal & linkages, but sounds like pawl spring to me too: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872

     

    Was it Guzzi shop did warranty work? The pawl arm/spring problem was subject of a MG service bulletin.

     

    KB :sun:

     

    Not actually a Guzzi shop. There are no actual Guzzi shops here. It was a shop that handles multiple brands, sold a few Guzzis, but not a real dealer. But they did the spring replacement under warrantee.

  10. Thank you all for responding. I will check the links. I am neither enough of a mechanic nor do I have the time to try to fix this myself. What limited free time I have, I would rather spend riding (rode 290 miles today , very therapeutic).

  11. Good evening, ladies and gentlemen

    I am the original owner of a 2002 LeMans. I purchased it new in 2006.

    It got stuck in second gear at about 4k miles. Thanks to the good information I got on this website, I was able to have it fixed under warrantee.

     

    Today, the transmission got stuck in first gear. I had to ride it home in first gear for 30 miles. The bike currently has 24,800 miles on it. I would get rid of it except I love the way it looks, I love the way it sounds, and it is a lot of fun to ride.

     

    I am looking for advice.

  12. With the engine running and trans. in neutral , pull in the clutch lever. If it sounds like something is broke and about to come apart , you have a twin disc plate clutch.

     

    Thanks all. I just got the bike back. He put in the BMW/Ducati filter. Indeed, it is shorter and required a longer fuel line. Now all is well.

    As to the oil, I didn't mean to open a can of worms. I have been using Mobil 1 15/50. I hope it is ok, but to tell the truth, I kind of figure that all of my bikes will last longer than I will, so I don't worry about it.

     

    As to the clutch: based on the racket it makes when the clutch lever is pulled in, it is definitely twin plate.

  13. I use one from WIX (33310) for the Isuzu Trooper. It has the same flow and filtration as the Weber. It is slightly shorter, so I fitted a longer line from the pump (maybe an extra 2-3 cm/ one inch).

     

    Thank you. I had already called Harpers before posting here. I will speak to my mechanic tomorrow and pass on your information.

    The one in the bike is a Weber - i could see that with a flashlight.

     

    I have some other questions:

    1. how often do you change the fuel filter?

    2. What motor oil do you use?

    3. I'm planning on keeping this bike for pretty much forever. Somebody told me that the clutch is only good for about 30k miles. Is this true?

     

    Thanks again

  14. OK, let's start with basics. I bought the bike, a 2002 Guzzi Lemans new in 2006. I don't think anybody ever modified anything, at least not with my knowledge.

     

    SO first, just check my (limited) understanding: The fuel goes out of the tank on the left side at the rear of the tank. The fuel line goes to the front of the bike, the fuel pump located between the two horns. Am I right so far? Then the fuel goes back to the filter, located under the tank, partly visible from the left side. Am I correct?

     

    Well, anyway, the guy who does my maintenance tells me that where he orders parts from keeps sending him the wrong gas filter. The filter they send him is shorter and has a smaller diameter than the one he says is in the bike. The one they send him is a BMW filter, and he tells me that it is the same filter for BMW and Ducatti.

    He showed me the one they sent. It has equal diameter inlet and outlet ends. He tells me that the proper one has a greater diameter inlet than outlet.

    Do any of you know what the right filter is, where to get it, and what the source of all the confusion is?

     

    The last two times he worked on the bike it was the same story, so he didn't change the filter. Now it is in for a 24K mile service and I would really like to have a new fuel filter.

     

    Thanks.

  15. My 2002 Lemans is at 21,300

    I bought it new in 2006.

    Problems:

    -oil leak from a bad gasket by front cover after a few thousand miles

    -5490 miles: had the transmission failure due to the spring

    -14,450 miles: rear wheel bearings failed

    -and of course, the paint on the engine is bubbled

    -occasionally the idiot lights do funny things

     

    On the other hand, the bike has personality, it is fun to ride, and it always puts a smile on my face.

    Love is always irrational.

  16. The factory mounts for the instrument cluster will eventually fail. I epoxied mine a few times before giving up on them. I cut some rubber plugs to the same length as the stock mounts, drilled through them, ran longer screws through the assembly, and used rubber and steel washers under the nuts on the bottom of the mounting bracket. Did that make sense?

     

    If I was to do it again I'd just remove the metal parts from the stock rubber mounts, drill through them, then attach them the same way.

     

     

    Makes sense to me. It looks like it should be just one long screw through the faux carbon fiber plate, through the rubber cylinder and through the metel plate below it.

    Question: Where did you get the rubber to make th plugs out of?

  17. Thanks for the response. Ya know, I had a feeling that something fell out when I put the new longer screw in, but that was over a month ago, I don't know what it looked like, and consequently, I don't understand the mechanism.

     

    What do I ask the dealer for, or is there a site with a microfiche on line anywhere?

  18. I made an aluminium bracket to hold my beeper while riding [see picture]. The screw holding the bracket goes into a metal threaded collar inserted into a black rubber cylindrical shock absorber. I assumed that the screw went all the way thru this ruber and into the metal surface below it, to hold it firmly in place, but this is not the case.

     

    I tried silicon cement on it, but this didn't work and the instruments dance around when I ride, and surely the tach and speedo will soon fail if I don't fix this.

     

    I am trying to epoxy it in place, but does anyone know what the proper thing to do is? Or any recommendations?

     

    Thanks.

    beeper_bracket.JPG

  19. You guys are all teriffic! Very knowledgeable and helpful. Thanks.

    The one on the Triumph 675 looks like it blocks view of the instruments. The one on the Guzzi may work, but I like symmetry. I guess you can't have everything. I have to go to work now but later I'll look at the mounting parts that came with the Zumo. Thanks again guys.

×
×
  • Create New...