savagehenry
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Posts posted by savagehenry
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If you look down into the hole with a flashlight, you'll be able to see when the oil reaches the level of the plate. Then, just put the dipstick in without screwing it in, and you'll know where full is, and you can mark where that level is by drilling a small hole in the stick. I did this and then also made marks from the "new" top level graduated the same as the stock ribs. Makes it very easy to check mine on the sidestand, unscrewed. I did this during an oil/filter change to make it that much easier since you are looking directly at the stick poking through the plate.
I keep mine just below plate level when topping it off.
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Really?!? My impression of most of the folks on this site is we would just as soon have our Guzzis and such other things remain in the "past" and tend to be genuine luddites. You, Good Sir, are surely some form of Mandello minded HERETIC!!! You durned kids, and yer cell phones, and short pants, and damned nintendo game station machines...why, in MY day...
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I see handling a gun as sorta like swimming. You may never in your life need either, but the day you do is NOT the time to try to learn!!!!
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Try this:
Bike on stand/wood and jack under oil pan/have someone you trust hold it up. Sidestand up. Plunge the switch in and out while you spray clean, then lube the sidestand switch. If it fixes it, great. Doesn't? ONE less thing to worry about.
And lube the sidestand pivot while you're there. And the 2 spring's contact point's, and...
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I just found out a pair of my best friends just broke a Bonneville Land Speed Record! Tim built it in his home garage, and my long time bud, Cuda, has done countless hours on it, too. It started as several 60-70's BSA C- and B- motors, and a pieced together pile of swap meet parts and crap laying in the way in the two car garage/shop. I've machined and fabbed parts, helped with assembly a bit, and lent material aid in the form of beers, food, and cash towards the effort.
They have campaigned it for two years, with this last weekend being the big payoff.
The new record in the 250 cc pushrod, modified, naturally aspirated gasoline class is:
94.196 mph.
They just got home. Today, we PARTY!!!
Tomorrow, we start the preparation to GO FASTER next year...
Tried to post a pic, but being really analog, I'm not able to do that properly, sorry.
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Mine: Warm out, no fast idle lever, Colder, lever to full, then turn throttle open a bit, sidestand down, clutch in, hit the button. Dependable more than 99%
Do you get the neutral light and other dash lights on before you crank it? Does the neutral light turn on and off faithfully as you snick it in and out of gear, not running? (Neutral switch at trans issues?)
Does it make a difference if you try it with the sidestand down and clutch in? Will it turn over in neutral when the stands down but the clutch isn't depressed? (Clutch switch and/or sidestand safety switch issues)
Do you notice it starts after moving the bars? (the infamous clutch switch bullet connectors)
Also, check the relays to make sure they are tight in the sockets, not loose or even popping out. Mine have before...
When I got mine from the original owner, I pulled EVERY electrical connection I could get to, and cleaned/lubed. Hope it's a start for you, S.H.
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Man, I'm feelin' for ya, Brother. I just took a 2 1/2 week break from riding and that was bad enough. My 5 year old boy came down to my room, sick, at something like 4 in the morning. When I woke up at 6:00 for work, I "found" the truck he'd left on top of our stairs. I went down, head over heels, and compressed a few discs in my back, twisted my neck, left leg and left knee and cut my head. Luckily, the small marble table at the bottom and the wall stopped me, cold. I'm damn near 50, and THAT EFFIN' HURT. Missed a week of work, and didn't feel up to riding for a bit after. Today was the first ride in weeks, and it was like feeling your life's blood begin to flow again. Maybe me and The Monkey were on to something. Get a smaller bike, and wring it's neck all winter, then pull that trigger on the one you want when spring hits. I'm not sure I'd be able to wait till it gets warm to ride again. But you're in Min-eye, winter is a little more serious up your way...Good luck how ever it goes, S.H.
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Glad you are not hurt, it is the most important thing, bar none.
That being said, just make a call, scan the locals, buy a bike, and if you don't like it, sell it and buy another. After all, winter's comin and a small one would be fun to slid @ the corners... ( NOTE: CURRENT Economy in FULL Consderation...)
After my walk away HEAD ON W/ CAR NO GEAR crash, the Wife was REALLY pissed, at 3 monthes pregnant, to hear the response to her repeated question, "So? Do you get it now? Motorcycles are dangerous, etc..."
MY RESPONSE: "If I don't have another bike before the scabs fall off, I've failed myself..." or some version of that...
Maybe even something in the interim that you NORMALLY would'nt buy, just fer motorcycling fun?...Just my
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I remembered a thread of this sort from awhile back. Did a search for "cam chain tensioner" and found it. Listed on page 7 of the search, under "timing chain tensioner", a good start for what you're looking for. Also a good reminder that while Rachethack could really be a valuable part of this forum, when he wasn't deliberately pissing people off by being an asshat...
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The original bearing on my bike lasted 20,000 miles. We'll see if my mod helps in the ever popular "failing outboard needle bearing". There is a slight depression around the bore for that bearing, in the swingarm. I got a rubber washer from my local hardware store. The O.D. is the size of that depression. Then I enlarged the hole in the middle of the rubber to the I.D. of the aforementioned steel washer, smeared grease in the the depression, both sides of the the rubber and the inside of the washer and sandwiched the rubber between the swingarm and the steel washer. It certainly seems to be sealed better from the elements but only the miles will tell...
P.S. Docc, I'm with you on the dealer support aspect. I could have easily found a washer to work (Mine was all rusty), or just sanded mine clean, or made one myself. I bought it for roughly the same price you did. Why? Because I buy from the local MG dealer whenever I can cause I want him there when I NEED something. Plus, I just like to hang out there, and ANY excuse will do.
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Consider checking the relay base for bad connection too. Maybe the contacts have been spread and no longer are tight over the relay's blades, or coming loose. When you turn the key on, are you getting dash lights?
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P.S. Sorry for the thread drift, Folks. Back to the problems at hand, ehem...
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For the no start issue, try following the wires coming off the clutch. Moving the bars and then starting is usually the sign of this.
On the left side below the tank will be two bullet connectors for the clutch safety switch. Just pull them apart, clean and lube them, and pinch the female ends a bit to make them tighter. Seems to be a common issue with many bikes here.
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hey everyone,
thanks for all the helpful ideas. I'll try to get some pictures up here tomorrow. I live in NYC, so working on the bike myself is kind of impossible. Don't have the space to keep all the tools needed. Plus, I'm new to bikes, so I don't know enough to dig into them myself with confidence.
So? You haven't lived until you see your bike fall over right before your eyes ,then give a harangue so filthy Chris Rock would call the cops on you.
don't ask how I know. p.s. when you remove the second fork cap the front suspension IMMEDIATELY colapses. This action takes place best on dirt bikes with long travel suspension.
Or when you're carrying your Sportster motor out of your livingroom to your truck, over newly fallen snow, only to find that your roommate has placed CERAMIC TILE (?!?!?!!!) at the front door as a door mat. This causes you to have your feet INSTANTLY shoot out in front of you, and the motor lands on your chest, bounces off and hits the concrete, busting the cases back by the transmission. But your chest hurts so bad you can't yell at him anyway, much less yell obsenities. Just alot of that clenched teeth seething, mixed with the sound of gasping/sucking air...It is probably too early to recognize the signs, but YOU are starting to exhibit them, "Motorcycle Madness". When you consider either hauling your bike up the elevator, or lifting it by rope and pulleys with a homemade yardarm on to your balconey, it will be TOO LATE. I know, I've done it...Friends will be a big help. Not cause they will assist you with vast expanses of knowledge, but because all of you can assure each other that this type of behavior is completely normal...
Also, mayonaisse in the place of oil pert near always means water got in there, in my experience, and that so called confidence is usually born of trying it, effin' it up, and keeping on till you get it right...Good Luck, keep us informed, S.H.
did you make this up?
Totally true. The motor was from my 1978 XLCH. I didn't have a garage at many of my previous homes, so I always had bikes in the house. The wife even put up with that for the first few years, and then agreed we really needed a garage!
The apartment stuff was my best friends bikes. The elevator incident was when he moved into a high rise and wanted to do work over the winter. The lift we made was for when he lived on the 3rd floor of a 4 floor flat. His upstairs neighbor was a biker too, and let us use his balconey to lift my friends bike up to the balconey below. We had it mostly stripped down, and did it in the middle of the night. Didn't think the folks on the first two floors would like a bike coming up the hallways/tight stairs. Plus it was just damned good fun to do when you're young and precocious. See, he almost got kicked out of the high rise because of the bike in elevator incident. Same problem both places. The "Straights" just don't see things the way WE do.
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hey everyone,
thanks for all the helpful ideas. I'll try to get some pictures up here tomorrow. I live in NYC, so working on the bike myself is kind of impossible. Don't have the space to keep all the tools needed. Plus, I'm new to bikes, so I don't know enough to dig into them myself with confidence.
So? You haven't lived until you see your bike fall over right before your eyes ,then give a harangue so filthy Chris Rock would call the cops on you.
don't ask how I know. p.s. when you remove the second fork cap the front suspension IMMEDIATELY colapses. This action takes place best on dirt bikes with long travel suspension.
Or when you're carrying your Sportster motor out of your livingroom to your truck, over newly fallen snow, only to find that your roommate has placed CERAMIC TILE (?!?!?!!!) at the front door as a door mat. This causes you to have your feet INSTANTLY shoot out in front of you, and the motor lands on your chest, bounces off and hits the concrete, busting the cases back by the transmission. But your chest hurts so bad you can't yell at him anyway, much less yell obsenities. Just alot of that clenched teeth seething, mixed with the sound of gasping/sucking air...It is probably too early to recognize the signs, but YOU are starting to exhibit them, "Motorcycle Madness". When you consider either hauling your bike up the elevator, or lifting it by rope and pulleys with a homemade yardarm on to your balconey, it will be TOO LATE. I know, I've done it...Friends will be a big help. Not cause they will assist you with vast expanses of knowledge, but because all of you can assure each other that this type of behavior is completely normal...
Also, mayonaisse in the place of oil pert near always means water got in there, in my experience, and that so called confidence is usually born of trying it, effin' it up, and keeping on till you get it right...Good Luck, keep us informed, S.H.
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First post, who gives a flying rat's ass if it's his first post?!? How in the hell did you get that mileage outta yer bearings?!?
Oh, welcome aboard ,too.
A proper puller, that goes through the bearing, expands, and pulls the bearing out is best/easiest way. You will pay for the puller, but will use it on the swing arm bearings, and those jobs alone will be worth the price of admission.
Heat, judiciously applied, is your friend.
S.H. -
Push on the hose w/ rt. hand, push the fitting towards the hose w/ your left, pull on the hose while pushing with your left. Be prepared to catch a cup of gas when the lines drain. I set a rag below, with a beheaded beer can to drain into.
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The motor can be room temperature. It's REVENGE that is best served cold...
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Would someone please tell me how I can determine whether my bike has the Roper plate in it? I'd appreciate the info.
Look at the seam between the engine case and the upper sump. If you see only a gasket, you don't have a windage/sloppage plate. If you see the case, a gasket, a "shim", another gasket, then the upper sump, you've got one. A windage tray/plate and a sloppage plate are basically the same thing. I don't know how thick Pete's plates are. I made mine myself, and it is .062" thick, or 1/16 of an inch. Hope that helps
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You lucky dog! I only wish I could do that kind of ride, although I have put in a
Some guys here can't believe I get about 10,000 miles out of a set of tires (Pre-Angels, the Diablo Stradas) and brake pads. I can't believe ANYONE gets to the closer side of 10 years out of any motorcycle battery! I've found if your sitting charge isn't at least 13.5v, these bikes start acting funny. Do yourself a favor, buy that new battery and I bet you will not see that again. And I see you've already identified your next issue. You WILL need that windage plate, just not to control oil consumption. It is because the oil pick up is at the front of the sump, and hard take offs and such send all the oil back, letting you suck air for those moments. These bikes make hard take offs a VERY additive thing. My plate was the best mod I've done since I bought mine for the reasons stated above
Ride it fast enough to scare yerself and still ride it home, Cheers S.H. -
I don't mind the long wheelbase, I guess what I'd like to know is more on the rake and rear ride heights, and whether these are adjustable. I rarely leave the chassis alone on any bike I own, typically doing triple clamps on most to get the feel I want out of the front end. That being said I doubt I'll do that much to any Guzzi I might own, but I'm currently debating between a Red Frame V11 Sport (silver) for $4k with 2000 miles, and a Rosso Corsa for double that with 4,000 miles. Both are all stock, and I'm sort of debating what direction I would want to take. The full Ohlins in my mind, is worth every penny of the higher asking price.
Sadly, a clean Nero Corsa is also available locally, but the seller is asking $11,000....
Thanks for the info!
Disclosure!!! I am biased
Personally, I'd get the Rosso if money isn't the limiting factor. I recommend to any askers, "go with the Ohlins". And it has the fairing, which I find very functional without ruining the view in any way. If you don't want it, there is always someone looking for one, and you then offset the Rosso's premium asking price.
I don't believe there was any difference in the Sport vs. LeMans frame set ups, it was the year they lengthend the wheel base that was the "big" change. And I don't recall anyone writing up on this, but I think it was possibly Leo Tamers who offered a steering head bearing and race set that put the '03 and later bikes back to the earlier bikes geometry, ??? Best of both worlds???. I saw it when my Nero was newer to me, and after putting miles on it, decided I didn't need it.
$11,000 sounds like he's telling his wife "it is for sale, really... but this economy, etc" in order to keep it. And I can't blame him, cause once you've got your Nero, all the others are simply beautiful, just not the most beautiful...
Enjoy the Hunt, S.H.
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Done, and thanks for the "Heads Up" Dan
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Added bonus: you can keep the stock clocks for replacement when you're taking your Guzzi on the concours circuit 30 years from now...
Man, I like your thinking...
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Those Angels are the replacement for the discontinued Diablo Stradas. I got 9500 miles out of my first set of D.S's, second set is on about 5000 now and are probably going to do about 9-10k again. Just rode hours in very heavy rain and the guy with me apparently told a few others that I tend to ride faster than he was comfortable with in the rain. I told him to try Pirellis, you would too! I do mostly commuting, and I have yet to be accused of a lazy throttle hand or timid braking by anyone who's rode with me. I will not even shop around for my next re-shoeing, the Angels will be next.
Messing with the LeMans
in 24/7 V11
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IIRC the tank is ABS. A search of the archives will definetly answer alot of your questions, and will surely raise more than had been answered. Also Check "FAQ's"