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Mal

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Posts posted by Mal

  1. Hiya

     

    The 5 speed boxes are fairly simple to pull apart, its been a while since I did one but definately replace the seals/o rings while its all apart, its easy enough and they aren't too expensive and a bit of a ball ache to get at if they start leaking when its back on the bike.

     

    I think you also have to replace the output nut as its pegged/hammered/dented to stop it undoing itself, also if you take off the input nut (at the front of the gearbox) you'll need a pegged washer (and possible the nut if you have to butcher it off - they can be VERY tight, mind you they have to be, I had one come loose once - very messy).

     

    I'm sure Pete Ropers words of wisdom on shimming mention everything you need to do.

     

    Good luck

     

    Mal :helmet:

  2. Josh

     

    Not sure this will be helpful but if its a squeak just when you pull in the clutch lever (and/or let it out) its probably just the unlubbed splines squeeking a little, mine did it for ages before I was worried/bored enough to whip out the engine and lube them (not too much or the grease finds its way onto the clutch plates).

     

    Its now squeak free but my worries were probably a little unfounded as there was no wear evident when I took it apart after 20,000 miles. :huh2:

     

     

     

    Mal :helmet: .

  3. Hi Guy

     

    surely a monkey bike would be suitable :grin:

     

    I like the idea of a trail bike with sticky tyres or one of my faves, the SV650 but where the hell will you keep it? your garage is chokka already, actually maybe the monkey bike is the best idea.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  4. Ballacraine

     

    I personally don't find the intake roar any problem at all (to be honest I hardly notice it and its certainly quieter than the roar from the pods I sometimes use) although I've heard some folk on this forum complain about it.

     

    I've done tons of long trips including several abroad to Italy, France etc and not been bothered by it once.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  5. Ballacraine

     

    as Guy has mentioned I have a moded airbox (when I'm not running pods), just to clarify something though, he said I do not have a lid at all which is not quite true, I have a cut down lid as suggested by Raceco a few years ago, this allows the filter to be held down without making a new clamp (although that probably isn't too difficult and enables you to keep the standard airbox lid although I personally would never go back to standard). I'll attempt to add a picture but if it fails its on the following web link under the "Technical" section.

     

    http://www.raceco.com/

     

    Once set up with a custom map from Hobbsport it ran very strong as Guzziriders comments testify, and I too got better mpg, very happy :grin:

     

    Mal :helmet:

    v11flatkn.jpg

  6. Luckily I've got an earlier UK spec bike which does not have the headlight on permanently, and as for the heated grips, I won't switch them on until the engine is running, even then I was only intending to use them on longer trips when the revs are up.

     

    I'll probably end up tapping into one of the lighting circuits as suggested.

     

    There is plenty of room in the V11 Le Mans headlight shell for relays as it only has wiring to the bulbs.

     

    cheers

     

    Mal :helmet:

  7. Hi all and a Happy New Year to you all.

     

    I've got some heated grips for Christmas and was wondering if anyone could help with an electrical query, I can pull engines to bits but electrics puzzle me a bit :huh: so I thought it would be easier to ask someone on this forum with some knowledge of the dark arts.

     

    The set of grips (Oxford Hot Grips) come with wiring to connect direct to the battery but mentions that the positive lead can be connected to a ignition feed (+) so that they cannot be left on once the ignition is off. Can anyone reccomend a suitable wire I should connect them to ?.

     

    The instructions say not to connect to a regulated 12v circuit as it needs 13 volts to heat up properly.

     

    cheers

     

    Mal :helmet:

  8. I'd be up for thrashing the V11 around a track in 2006 (in the north/west of the UK), that way Guy can say he's beaten me on a drag strip and a track :P ...from Guy's track day knowledge Angelsey sounds like the best for location and type of circuit.

     

    The only circuit I've been on was Knockhill, fabulous time.

     

    I'm not sure why some people slag off track days, I agree its not for everyone but no one is forcing them to go on them and its a case of don't knock it until you've tried it and as some others here have mentioned, where else can you explore the full potential (or lack of :grin: ) of your Guzzi.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  9. Its been very amusing reading this thread :grin: , long may it continue but I'm still a K&N fan but happy for anyone else to fit whatever they want.

     

    I've riden massive milages (100,000 in some cases) on various big Guzzis all with K&N pods, taken the top ends/barrels apart and found no noticable wear as long as oil is changed regularly, I'm sure the original fully enclosed filters would add a few miles but not enough for me to worry about.

     

    My unscientific advice is don't worry about it, just enjoy riding it whatever filter you use and a very merry Christmas & new year to one and all.

     

    Mal :xmas:

  10. Dlaing

     

    just to clear one of your queries,

     

    "the http://www.guzzitech.com/photos/GL-03LeMans-Dynorun.jpg 2003 (might have front balance pipe) over 70 with stucchi crossover, a little under 80HP"

     

    it is indeed a bike with front crossover, its Guzzirider's Rosso Corsa. We both had dyno runs at the same place and although he has a stucchi and at the time I had a standard xover (all other mods the same) the results were interesting, we got very similar results, about 70 for torque and a smidge under 80bhp at rear wheel. I have the dyno chart and can dig it out if anyone wants to see it.

     

    As Guy mentioned we're going to pop over to the Hobbsport people again, me to get the PC111usb fine tuned as I now have a stucchi xover (bought after Guy beat me on every run on the drag strip) and for him to have fun..any excuse :grin: .

     

    In the name of science :nerd: I'm also going to do a quick pods verses airbox run but funds will dictate when that will be. I appreciate some very knowledgable folk have already discussed the merits/pitfalls of pods but I want to see for myself.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  11. It shouldn't be a particularly difficult job although if your memory is anything like mine :rolleyes: and it doesn't get put back together the same day as disassembly it might be worth taking a few pictures with a digital camera of the process for reference or at least making notes.

     

    good luck...and enjoy it.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  12. As Guy says, the PC111USB will fit, I have one on my 2003 Le Mans (ordered through and custom mapped by the same folk who did Guy's bike - Hobbsport). It does make a noticable difference in power and fuel economy (more power and better fuel consumption, it doesn't get much better :xmas: ).

     

    If you can stretch to a custom map made by a company that knows what they are doing its worth it.

     

    The only thing I'm not sure of is the California spec.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  13. Hi

     

    I was going to say don't worry too much about it, I had a weep from the timing chest for ages (several thousand miles) before it was fixed under warranty (new gasket and not a drop leaked in the last 10K) however if you say you could see the oil "flowing" that sounds a bit different to a simple weep of oil.

     

    Initially I'd do the bolt cleaning and gasket goo thing and tighten all the case bolts you can get at (try everything you have to to get them all including modifying/cutting down allen keys) and see if that stops it. If it ends up as just a weep of oil don't worry too much about it.

     

    If its more than this I'd bite the bullet and take the cover off, check it for damage/flatness and change the gasket.

     

    I've not done this myself on a spine frame but have done loads of Tonti framed Guzzis, the only awkward bit is getting the alternator off, I won't go into how to do this at the moment because I've no idea if the V11 has a different arrangement, though I doubt it knowing Guzzi but you never know. If I get the chance I'll have a look at the manual and check or I'm sure more experienced V11 tinkerers who have already done this can assist.

     

    Try the easy option first and good luck.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  14. Have you tried hitting the starter with a hammer (gentle taps before you work up to a full on Homer type rage). :luigi:

     

    I had a problem with a sticking solenoid on the starter, a few taps and it started fine (since been sorted).

     

    other than that all I can think of (some of which have been covered) is relays, fuses, clutch switch wiring and checking any wires that go to the starter (unlikely but you can also check the righthand switchgear), if you have a multimeter you can check most of the circuit.

     

    good luck, chances are its something simple :huh2:

     

    Mal :helmet:

  15. I was lucky enough to see the mighty Guzzilla racing earlier this year at Assen (along with the MGS01 and a few other Guzzis), I can't remember off hand what its position was in the race but it humbled a few Jap and Italian pocket rockets.

     

    I love to see & hear Guzzis on a race track, awesome in every sense of the word..cool :thumbsup:

     

    The guy (maybe Hoffmann, not sure) in the Dynotec pits was very friendly and happy to talk Guzzis, just wish I had enough money to spend on some of their goodies :food:

     

     

     

    Mal :helmet:

  16. What are the pipes? Crossbow/PR copies in s/s? What is the front wheel? Brakes? Footrests...?..etc....

     

    Thanks, KB :sun:

     

    This is my T3:

    66746[/snapback]

     

     

    Baldini

     

    this fab looking bike is very similar to one of the HTM (or something liek that I think) bikes. Its a German company who build special Guzzis, the exhausts are made by them and I assume many of the other bits too. Been trying to find a web site link that I used to have which showed their bikes but can't find it (will look again tomorrow).

     

    They are still around, they were at Boxmeer this year (fab rally), love the style of these bikes.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  17. Mal's rear wheel bearing did last year - he will probably read this tomorrow so can comment.

     

    Round thing looked like a big metal hula hoop!

    66269[/snapback]

     

     

    he he, the metal hoola hoop thingy on Guy's bike was the inner race to the outer rear drive needle roller bearing, it was starting to pick up but a bit of TLC and grease has given it a new life.

     

    As for my rear wheel bearing collapsing, it was the left hand bearing by the rear brake, we discovered it after a very spirited ride down a Italian pass near Lana last year, it had 2 ball bearings left intact :( . The local Guzzi shop was owned by a ex Guzzi racer mentioning that the bearing spacer was not quite the right length, he sorted this and a new bearing very quickly (been fine ever since) and gave me a bottle of local Guzzi wine...cool.

     

    It still amazes me that after all these years of Guzzi ownership how much I enjoy riding these bikes (the v11 in particiular), thoroughly enjoyed yesterdays ride out over the wet morrland roads :bike: .

     

    Mal :helmet:

  18. I wouldn't worry too much about the rain and K&Ns, I had them fitted to my bike for a while and rode many miles through Scotland last spring in pissing rain and strong sidewinds without a hiccup, I guess some other makes might not be so good at keeping out the rain though (and they need to be oiled with K&N oil).

     

    As for the story of which is better Pods on TB or on the plastic tubes I can't comment I had mine on the plastic tubes, and they seemed pretty good but I went back to my open K&N airbox as it obviosly needed a bit of PC111 tweaking and I couldn't afford it at the time. Still keen to do a comparison between pods and airbox at my local dyno but need some spare cash.

     

    Mal :helmet:

  19. OK (ignore if bored with rear shock tech details :P )

     

    I've spoken to those nice folk at Harris performance (who import Ohlins to UK) and their technical guru spent a while looking up the specs for all rear shock Ohlins fitted to Guzzis and the one offered as an aftermarket fitment for the 99-02 V11s.

     

    He had a database which told him everything from types of springs to damping to the name of the beautiful Swedish lady who packed it.

     

    In short, all models of Ohlins Guzzi fitted to their V11s are identical (length, damping, springs etc) until 04 when they made them shorter (from 286mm to 280mm) with less preload and maybe damping changes (forgotten that one sorry). The Ohlins aftermarket shock that Ohlins offers for V11s is exactly the same spec as the earlier pre04 bikes apart from an external preload adjuster.

     

    No ideas why they changed length :huh2: , for the Ballabio type Cafe Sport maybe? (unlikely) The Harris bloke thought there must have been a change to the frame or mounting points but I've always thought there was no changes to the rear end. I was also under the impression that the earlier Ohlins Guzzi fitted (e.g. Scura) to be not as well sorted as the later versions (e.g. Rosso Corsa) yet I've riden a 03 Rosso Corsa which handled beautifully (maybe this was mounted with an 04 shock). Still confused :grin:

     

     

    Mal :helmet:

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