CoreyL

I just replaced my stock Sachs unit with a Penske unit and they seemed to already know the length of the hose, diameter and width of mounting points, diameter of the remote reservoir, etc. The only difference was the angle at which the hose entered the remote reservoir and I'm not sure how much control they have over that. Hope that helps...

Hi All, The Sachs rear shock on my 2001 V11 Sport has begun to leak and I'm shopping for a replacement. Please contact me off-line if you know anyone who is parting out a bike or has a shock for sale. thanks, Corey Levenson San Antonio TX corey dot levenson at gmail dot com

Hi All, I just listed the following items on ebay: 1) the stock exhaust crossover 2) a pair of 320 mm Brembo front brake rotors 3) a pair of carbon fiber exhaust canisters All these items came off my 2001 Rosso Mandello V11 Sport. Search by my seller name: sawheelman. Thanks! Corey Levenson San Antonio TX

I bought my Rosso Mandello new in Houston in 2001. It's number 049. I've made a few mods (wavy rotors, PowerCommander, CF chin spoiler, CF rear hugger, Magni pipes, etc.). Here's a pic: http://tinyurl.com/2qjjz7 I love the bike.

My 2001 V11 Sport is on its third speedo. The first went all twitchy at about 4500 miles and was replaced under warranty. The second one also went twitchy between 4000 and 5000 miles. I was out of warranty at that point and found a replacement on ebay. That one is still running fine at over 5000 miles. My dealer told me that there was a problem with some of the bushings in the instrument itself. I tried to find someone in the US who had the parts and skill to work on the Veglia unit and was not successful.

Thanks, all, for the replies. I think I just need to get in there and take a look-see at what I've got going on. The information I was looking for was whether or not it had anything to do with the Redline, and now I don't think it does. I noted last night that the owners manual I got with the bike specifies a synthetic AGIP lube for the rear diff. So, I think I'll replace whatever seal(s) need replacing and then refill with the Redline HD Shockproof stuff and see how she goes.

Hi All, I have a 2001 V11 Sport and have been running Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof synthetic gear oil in my rear differential housing. The bike has about 20,000 miles on it. The lube is leaking past the seals and dripping on the rear rim after having been in there for the last 12 months. I've checked the vent/fill hole and it is not plugged up. I am preparing to replace the seals but wonder if this is related to the lube, or would've happened even with the stock moly lube. Anyone else have a similar experience with the Redline stuff? Thanks in Advance, Corey Levenson San Antonio TX

I don't think they stick out much farther than the stock ones (I'd have to dig out my stock ones and measure them to be sure). Both guards just stick out enough to somewhat protect the spark plug if the bike goes over. You might want to put the question to the Sport Cycle Pacific people to confirm dimensions...

I got the headguards from Sport Cycle Pacific (see: http://www.sportcyclepacific.com/featureditems.htm). BTW, back to the original vapor lock problem, when I went to inspect my fuel lines on the bike, the low pressure feed line to the fuel pump was within 0.25 inch of the left cylinder barrel. I relocated it to a couple of inches away. I think I'll also put some Thermo Tec aluminized heat barrier between the pump/fuel line and cylinder. Couldn't hurt...

I started with one of the "factory" stands that I got from Mike Haven at MPH. It's one of those units that you slide under the bike from the rear and it levers the rear end of the bike up in the air, using the two nuts on the hambone footrest plate as supports. I use it when I need to be able to rotate or remove the rear wheel. I later bought one of the those LA Sport Chocks (http://www.baxleycompanies.com/Sportchock.html) which I now use routinely. It's great; you just roll the bike onto the stand and that's it. The bike is upright, the rear wheel is not off the ground, but for oil changes, other maintenance and just parking the bike in the garage (or in the bed of a truck) it's great. I apologize since this information may not help you much with modifying the unit you now have, but I thought I'd pass along my experience with the two stands I have now.

OK. I just went out to the garage to check the intake rubbers: they're fine. The bike was cool so I fired it up and it ran fine. So, the problem appears to be heat-related. Next step is to take a close look at routing of fuel lines and try to insulate things. Thanks to all who responded!

The bike has about 13K miles. All the cannisters and hoses have been removed. I have K&N pods on the injector bodies. I'm also running a Power Commander. Stucchi crossover and Mistral pipes. I agree that the problem does not seem to be related to the oil change in a cause and effect way. The heat induced fuel delivery problem sounds like it might be the problem. I will try to start the beast up again after it's cooled completely. I've had the bike for several years and done many oil changes, and, even during today's ride, there were many times when I stopped, shut the bike off for a few minutes (waiting for others to catch up) and then restarted without incident. Maybe while in the garage with no air movement, heat was getting trapped up under the tank or in the vicinity of the fuel lines.

Today was one of those days that makes you happy to live in South Central Texas; 75 degrees with cloudless sky of azure blue. Anyway, we did a little 200 mile ride for lunch out to Utopia TX I was on my 2001 V11 Sport, with a couple of friends on a Quota and a 750 Breva. It was about time for an oil change so, when I got home, I shut off the bike and rolled it into the garage. I put the bike on a stand, removed the drain plug, ;et the oil drain and took out the old oil filter. Once the oil had stopped dripping out, I replaced the drain plug, and put in a new oil filter (pre-filled with oil). I refilled the sump and started the bike to circulate the oil before checking the level. To my puzzlement, the bike ran like crap! Backfiring, it wouldn't idle and stalled when I tried to give it some gas. I pulled the plugs and put in a fresh pair: no improvement. I next verified that I had good spark: yes. I also checked compression: both cylinders good. I did notice burbling sounds coming from the gas tank after the fuel pump came on, so I tried running the bike with the fuel filler cap open: no improvement. At this point, I'm stumped. I can't figure out what changed between going on an troublefree 200 mile ride and then re-starting the bike after an oil change. Anyone have any idea of what's going on? Thanks in advance for any input.

My 2001 Rosso Mandello is on its third speedo. The cables have been fine; it's the speedo itself that has failed. The first one lasted about 4500 miles and was replaced under warrenty. The second one lasted also less than 5000 miles and was replaced with a unit that I found on ebay. The third one is working well (so far) with about 3000 miles on it. I looked into getting the busted one serviced and was not successful in finding anyone in the US that could get spare parts from Veglia. I'm sure what part of the device is failing internally. Prior to the units dying, they both got real erratic between 60 and 80 mph.

I put their carbon fiber chin spoiler on my Rosso and was happy with the fit and finish. See pics at: http://www.pbase.com/coreyl/image/42070844 and http://www.pbase.com/coreyl/image/42070846. Not really part of their race kit but it seemed not out of place in this thread.

Got a Moto Guzzi Beanie and an Aprilia carbon Fiber pen (both bought at Aprilia NYC). Also got a pair of Dainese winter gloves, which, of course, will guarantee a mild winter from here on out...Oh, almost forgot; also got the new 2 disc DVD of Faster the Movie (fastermovie.com). Outstanding (even without Guzzi content)...

Yeah, I've got 13K miles on my Rosso (#049) and I still love it. K&Ns, Stucchi x-over, Mistral pipes, PCIII, etc. For anyone who cares about such things, of the 300 numbered RMs, I heard that 63 had been sold in the US as well as another 20 of the un-numbered "extra" limited edition ones. I saw some RMs in Japan and was told that only un-numbered models were brought in to that country. I have been compiling a list of VINs for the numbered Rossos. Here's what I have so far (send me an e-mail: clevenson2@aol.com if you'd like to add your numbers to the list): 046 ZGUKRAKR11M113947 049 ZGUKRAKR61M113961 050 ZGUKRAKR41M113943 072 ZGUKRAKR01M113941 074 ZGUKRAKR51M113952 101 ZGUKRAKR81M113945 102 ZGUKRAKR01M113938 111 ZGUKRAKR91M113954 184 ZGUKRAKR91M113968 232 ZGUKRAKR21M114122 237 ZGUKRAKR71M114116 242 ZGUKRAKR61M114124 244 ZGUKRAKR01M114118 269 ZGUKRAKR41M114106 273 ZGUKRAKR51M114101

Try www.motostrano.com.

Howdy, After trying a number of alternatives, I ended up putting a pair of Rizoma bar ends on my Rosso Mandello. I got them from Motostrano (http://www.motostrano-store.com/rirmi.html). They are designed to mount onto barend weights but, since on my V11 Sport the barend weights freely rotate, I mounted them by clamping them on to the last 1/4" of bar, allowing me to retain the stock barend weights. I had to move the grips, switches, etc. inboard about 1/4" on each side to make room for the mirrors. Moving the switches necessitated drilling a new hole in each bar to allow the switches to be repositioned (the switches have little plastic indexing protuberances that fix their position so that they don't rotate on the bar). I also mounted the mirrors so that they are swiveled outboard rather than inboard (as they are pictured in the URL listed above). They are big enough to give a decent view of what's going on behind me and, although there is still some vibration at certain RPMs (the stock weights notwithstanding), they give a reasonable clear view. Hope that helps...

I once ordered a factory decal for my bike which arrived at my home 364 days after I placed the order. I guess they didn't want me going around saying it can take years to get some parts.

Howdy, I also have a Rosso Mandello and, after hitting a buzzard last year, I looked into getting some touch-up paint. What I learned is that a company in Italy named Lechler SpA (www.lechlet.it) made the original paint for the Rosso Mandello. I e-mailed them and inquired about availability of paint. They referred me to their North American distributor in Canada: Peintures PMS Quebec 507, Rue des Sables G152Y1 (Quebec) Tel: 418 529 0311 Fax: 418 529 3056 www.peintures-pms.com I contacted these folks and they sent me a quote. The paint is not a simple proposition. There is a base coat, a color coat and a clear coat. They provided all the necessary info, but it was looking like I would have to spend something like many many hundreds of dollars to get a pints worth of the stuff. I learned to live with a few tiny nicks. My next foray will be to the local cosmetics counter. There's got to be a glossy red nail polish that would match the color close enough for tiny touch-ups. If I find a good match, I'll post it. All Best, Corey in San Antonio

Anyone know where I can find replacement keys for the soft Tekno panniers? I got a set of the bags on ebay, but they arrived without keys. All Best, Corey Levenson San Antonio TX clevenson2@aol.com

How Do, I have a 2001 V11 Sport with the 40 mm inverted Marzocchi forks. I purchased and watched the "Suspension for Mortals" video course from Traxxion Dynamics (very educational). I went and checked my sag front and rear and found both ends to need a bit more pre-load. The rear Sachs-Boge unit is adjustable, but the front forks are not easily so. Has anyone dealt with this? Are stiffer springs available or is one forced to have spacers fabricated? Any input will be appreciated. Thanks, Corey Levenson San Antonio TX

Bear in mind that with the Galasseti pipes you can't use a rear hugger/fender and you have to notch the bodywork to get the modified brackets to fit. I liked the look of these high pipes as well but I also like to run a fender and didn't want to permanently alter the bodywork.