GED 01

forgot to add went to the bike first thing this morning ,and it started up no problem,,like it had just left the factory,got me stumped

ive tried 4 batteries and done every test possible and its not that yes i have the old starter and i have rocked it in gear to no avail,although it will bump start no problem, as i said b4 ive read through all my old posts and there is a pettern of events,ie,the bike wont start ,fit a new battery and it starts ,it wont start,fit a new starter ,it starts,it wont start,re crimped a new connector on the small wire going to the starter ,it now starts ,and the bikes beeen fine sine last february,until now

daft question but where is it ,ive never heard of it,cheers

hi its a brand new starter 500miles old if that,ive just been reading through my old posts ,and its so blatantly intermittant ,i mean one week the bikes fine the next its not,as i said b4 i tried to start it from cold 3hrs ago only for it to click ive just been out to it and its stating ok,im no auto electrician and tbh im losing the interest to keep messing about with the bloody thing ,i prefer to be out riding than tinkering,not only that i dont always have the time to work on the bike ,,like this weekend [ive got my son]i would gladly pay someone to fix it ,but round here good bike mechanics are as hard to find as hens teeth in rocking horse shite,ive now run out of ideas where or how to check.new battery x2 rebuilt starter new starter new relays kill and starter switch working clutch and side stand switch working the bike fine for weeks then wont start ,or fine for a minute then not,

oh no,its not heat related,bike was stood for 9hrs and it just clicking away,somtimes the starter will turn the engine sometimes not, anybody want to buy a mint scura £4000 [im serious]

sorry forgot to add after my first post i left the bike 3hrs and tried to start it and it was fine ,,,the engine wasnt hot just warm ,and it cranked over like a good un,so im pretty certain the problem is linked to heat,

i had it ticking over for ten minutes cos i knew it probably wouldnt start once turned off,i could put the old starter back on and give it a try ,although ive never heard of a hot starter drawing of too many amps ,but im willing to try anything,

firstly this starting problem is not linked to the prvious starter problem,which in brief ,press the strater switch and nothing happened,to which i replaced the starter. soli, battery ,and relays,turned out [i think] to be a bad connection which seemed to cure it,anyhow i now have a new starter problem which really has me baffled,in the last 2 weeks ive noticed that the hotter my engine gets the more difficult and slower it rotates when pressing the starter button to continue my journey eg,if i come to start the bike in the morning its stone cold because its been stood overnight i,,, set of for work ten miles at 75mph get to work stop the bike and i then try to start it ,i press,the starter and the engine cranks over fine although slightly slower then when it was stone cold,if i get stuck in relativly heavy traffic and try the same thing the engine barly turns over but it still starts,then today i went on the manchester fuel protest,20 odd miles at 10mph with 2 stops along the way ,when the bike was on tick over for 10 minutes,after ten minutes i turned off the engine for about 2 minutes only to find when i pressed the stater button it just clicked ,,,not click click click just clicked.i then pressed and held in the starter and after 5/6 seconeds the engine began to turn very very slowly but enough for the engine to fire up,then we got to where we were going switched off the engine had a brew and a natter,30 minutes later tried to start her up and nothing somtimes a click somtimes nothing ,i managed to bump start it and got it going and made it back to work,left the bike to cool for 2hrs and it barley turned over as before ,,left it for 5 hrs bike turned over a lot quicker,when i got home left the bike for one hour and its fine cranking over as it should,im puzzled ,can anyone help,is it possible this problem is linked to the heat of the engine,or is it pure coincedence,can the starter solinoid get to hot and have a electrical breakdown?this time i REALLY DONT know where to start with this problem cheers

well i did the seals on saturday,bit of a bugger of a job just little things were going wrong that i didnt expect from my 14mm allen key gone missing so i had to make one to remove the front wheel,to front mud guard bolts snapping of in the fork anchors ,and then the 5mm tap snapping off when i tried to tap out the hole,,,,,,,anyhow there done and MY GOD my bike feels totally different i mean it actually handles like l want it to no more under damped feeling no more slow turn ins ,no bottoming out,the damping is progressive and smooth then firming up towards the end of the stroke,ive managed to remove half me toe slider on my new smxr"s...country lanes are a joy ,and fear not the tight twisty bits,,,amazing what 20 quids worth of new fork oil will do ,and i also spent some time setting up the suspension,i also dropped the forks 6mm through the clamps /yolks to try and quicken up the steering,anyhow whatever i did the bikes sweet, PS TO THE MOTO GUZZI MECHANIC WHO I SPOKE TO ON THE PHONE WHO SAID IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO CHANGE THE SEALS AT HOME AND I WOULD HAVE TO RETURN THEM TO A OHLINS DEALER TO RE BUILD @ A COST OF £200 yer wrong

no loctite no heatgun must of dreamt it, i will be doin them tomorrow so hopefull all goes to plan,cheers

the seals have gone which im going to replace on saturday,ive read as much as i can and made all the nessesary tools,for removal ,as ive said ive read a lot on this forum to pre arm myself for the job ahead,,,trouble is somwhere ive read the words "heatgun" and "loctite" ive re read a hell of a lot of posts and cant find any mention of these words ,,,,have i imajined these words or somewhere along the line im going to need a heatgun and some form of loctite to change the fork seals

cheers joe ill give it a try tomorrow

now im in love with the guz again im in the process of fitting bar end mirrors ,ive turned down the bar ends so the mirrors will clamp to those,the trouble is the bar ends are turning around 360 degrees,the counter weight bar is just turning around inside the clip ons.everything is there as it should be,ive checked the manual,,,is the counter weight bar supposed to be glued back inside the handle bar,or should the rubber tubing around the c/b bar expand when the end nut is tightened and hold tight against the inside of the handlebar,,,cheers ps the other side is ok the counter bar is stuck fast

cheers emry for the informative posts,ive printe them out and have filed them away,hopefully i wont have to look at them again ,but you never know,im glad to say the bike still turning over fine,, although things wernt made any easier by buying a £90 battery that turned out to be dud,,anyhow everythings fine at the moment and im preying it stays that way safe biking Ged

WELL SO FAR SO GOOD ,after my last post i went and checked the bike a few more times just to make sure i wasnt dreamig and it started fine,did the same on sunday and even braved the elements anfd took her for a spin,as you sugest maybe the solonoid wasnt getting enough voltage to energise and operate the starter who knows,and to the best of my knowledge i didnt disturb anything as every time i unclipped or cleaned an item i would check if it had made a difference by starting the bike ,,,only when i tightened the spade end did the engine spin like it should,anyhow im back in love with the guzzi and have shelved plans for the purchase of a beemer,and just long for decent weather cheers Ged

well ive just spent the last 5hrs with the guzz in 60/70 mph gusts [i hate working on bikes in bad weather]anyhow i went to start her up and the engine amazingly turned over enough for her to fire up,i then removed the tank and bodywork,1st thing i checked was the earth to the starter as phil advised and it made no differance so i then checked the switches all of which work,i then sepparated any and all the block connectors i could find and sprayed them witth leccy cleaner,same applied to the fuse holder and relay assembly,all to no avail still turning over but slowly ,,,so i get my meter and remove the spade end of the solonoid check the voltage and im getting 11.9volts as i push the starter [not sure wht it should be ????]and i9 put some copper grease on the terminal b4 i refit it ,i noticed that it was slightly miss shapen so i straightend it with pliers and tried to put it back on the solonoid terminal o dear i squashed it too much and it was a real strugle to slide it back on but i eventually managed,,, i pressed the starter to make sure i aint buggered owt up and bloody hell its spinning round like i dont no what,,,have i cured the problem ,,,i hope so ,cant believe its somthing soo simple,,i mean the terminal did have a tight fit b4 i squashed it some more.maybe it has to be so tight a fit its almost immpossible to get it back on,,who cares so long as its running again and im keeping my fingers crossed in the meantime

cheers phil for taking the time to post such a long and informative reply,the battery is fully charged.the previous battery was a dud and that was a new one ,hence i assumed is must be a fault with the starter,so i fitted a new starter ,still no joy, when i exchanged the battery the bike started up first time.until weds as i described i merely stopped the guzz to open the garage door when i attemted to start it there was a groan from the soli ,then just a click click from the relays then on the 3rd attempt it fired up like it was a new un,then nothing ever since,i agree with you i cant see it being a switch,and im inclined to think that theres somthing wrong with the supply side,but i will know more later today cheers for now

no the battery is brand new and unlike the previous battery is in perfect health,but thats not to say that the alarm may be interfering with the wiring somehow and preventing it from starting.ive now got a good wiring diagram and multimeter,tomorrow i shallremove the tank and bodywork and start by checking the switches ,and work my way through the electrics,i was just wanting to know of any specific areas that may be prone to failure,like the 2 conectors under the tank,anyhow thanks for the replies so far

cheers for the wiring diagram it will be a great help i have a multimetr but how do you do a drop test??? which is the primary side??? positve side ground side,,,not sure what you mean,,,as youcan tell by my experiance its going to be a long weekend

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12560 you may or may not know ive been having lots of trouble getting my scura to start,for more details click on the link to read in full,basically when i pressd the start button all i got was the relays clicking,so i replaced the starter battery and relays,and the bike started fine for the last 3 weeks ive been out on it a couple of times and started it every other day,yesterday i went to work on it everything was ok until i got home i switched f the bike to oped up the garage and when i came to start it the engine turned slowly as though the battery was going flat,i turned of the ignition and tried to start it but all i got was a click from yhe relays and a weird groaning sound fron the solonoid,and the 3rd time i tried it fired up fine.so i tried again and all i get now is the relays clicking,does anyone have any ideas,whats wrong,or help with the following im pretty certain the engine stop switch is ok,also the start button,clutch switch,seem to be working not sure about the side stand switch because the relays are cliking would i be right to assume that the fault is somewhere between the relay and solonoid,not from the handlebars to relay. is there anywhere i can get a good clear wiring diagram, are there any particular areas that i should be looking at regarding switches wiring that are prone to failure, if its not a break/fault with the wiring what else should i look at ie ECU? im at the end off my tether you lads are my last hope i dont earn a lot of money and even if a new of a good garage i couldnt afford to take it in therefore any help is greatley appreciated, ps i did the wiggly bar trick and it didnt work also the bike got a datatool thatcham 1 alarm fitted

MY GOD WHERE TO BEGIN,,,,I SUPPOSE WITH A RE CAP,BIKE WONT START,FIT NEW BATTERY ,,,STILL WONT START,SUSPECT CHARGER IS AT FAULT,,BUY A NEW MAXIMISER,,,STILL WONT START,,,REPLACE ALL RELAYS ,,AND STRIP DOWN BIKE CHECK ALL WIRING,,STILL A NON STARTER,,CHECK ALL BUTTONS AND SWITCHES,,STILL A NO GOER,,,RE BUILD STARTER AND FIT SERVICE KIT FOR STARTER,,,NOOOO GO,,,SO IBOUGHT A NEW STARTER AND SOLENOID FROM JOHN RAYSKI STILL A NO GO ,,,I SIT DOWN AND FIGURE OUT THE MOST PAINLESS WAY TO END IT ALL [JOKE] THEN SUDDENLEY I REMEMBER THE WORDS OF SHERLOCK HOLMES "ONCE YOU HAVE ELIMINATED EVERYTHING THAT IS POSSIBLE NO MATTER HOW INPROBABLE WHAT IS LEFT THAT IS THE ANSWER" SO I CHECKED THE BATTERY AND ITS FOOKED YES THAT £90 BATTERY THAT I FITTED ISNT HOLDING A CHARGE ,,,OK OVER THE LAST FEW WEEKS ITS GOT REALLY WORSE THAN WHEN I POSTED LAST ,,SHOWING 12.7V ON THE MAXIMISER 10.4V ON THE MULTIMETER,SO I FITTED MY OLD BATTERY BACK ,THE ONE I THOUGHT WAS U/S AND HEY PRESTO THE SCURA FIRES INTO LIFE THERE IS A GOD AND HE LOVES GUZZI I SHOUT,,,SO TO SUM UP ,YES MY OLD CHARGER WAS SHAGGED I HAD IT TESTED,MY OLD BATTERY WAS PERFECTLY FINE,MY NEW BATTERY IS TOTALLY SHAGGED,[MUST CONTACT TAYNA],AND IT WAS THE SOLONOID THAT WAS GOOSED,SO IN TOTAL I HAD 3 THING PREVENTING MY BELOVED SCURA FROM STARTING,JUST LIKE TO SAY A MASSIVE THANKS FOR EVERYONES HELP,AND I WANT TO MENTION JOHN RAYSKI AT WWW.EUROMOTOELECTRICS.COM HE SOLD ME A BRAND NEW STARTER/SOLENOID STILL IN THE BOX FOR £100 DELIVERED WITH INSURANCE PLUS 2 FREE BOSCHE PLUGS I ONLY HAD TO PY £9 UK VAT IF I HAD GONE TO MOTOMECCA IT WOULD BE NEARLY £300 FOR THE SAME ITEM,IM OFF FOR A BEER CHEERS

CHEERS thanks for the info i have made a note of the contacts,my parts havnt arived as yet ,ill keep you posted cheers Ged

spent a couple of hours reading up on the valeo starter,ive either got a D6RA20 OR D6RA21 one is later than the other but the differences may be,i cannot find any references of this part number fitted to any car and believe me i looked,but on the plus side i did find a place in the states that is selling them for $225 which is abiut £120 for a complete "new"of the shelf starter not a refurb,which is a bargain ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,so if the bits ive already ordered for the solenoid doesnt fix the prob then i will more than likely order of these chaps,and if a new starter doesnt cure it then im off to by a buell

i to have heard that the valeo starter is fiited to cars ,the fiat panda is one that seems to spring to mind,also i have heard alfa romeo but which ones i dont know????? but thanks for the cinqi tip it will be worth following it up,last night i had a look on flea bay and the cost of a toyota valeo starter £35 compared to the guzzi valeo at £250 makes me wonder if were not being made mugs of,,,i dont suppose anyone has a part number for the scura stater motor ???????????

cheers guy i might take you up on that ,,,maybe next week,i have ordered a repair kit for £18 from moto meca includes brush retainer spring brushes and a couple of other bits,i was also informed that they are strugling to find a solenoid which is bad news