Scotch
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Posts posted by Scotch
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Scott,
The little green o rings go on the straight line tubes that push into the fittings on the pan.
Bill Bassett
Bill,
I had black orings with a different part number for that. Assuming you mean the tubes inside the pan that connect the oil filter assembly to the pan. But I'll check my parts list and diagram again when I go home.
!Thanks!
Scott
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Hi!
Does anybody knows where to buy an second hand 15M ECU?
Thanks
You still looking for this?
I have a spare
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Someone may have put it there. The tube seat does not work with an o-ring. Discuss this with a store that sells hydraulic hoses and fittings or go to Weatherhead, Parker, etc. and check it out on the internet.
Yup
I put it together today
Left out the little green orings with no home
Put a dab of blue thread locker on it just to make me feel better
And filled it up with oil
No leaks from the tubes
Thanks all
Scott
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The fitting portion at the top is a tube seat. There is (or should be) a taper(37 degree i think) in the line to match the fitting. This will tighten to seal against any leaks. The bottom portion of the fitting might use the o-ring provided there is a taper in the threaded portion the fitting screws into. If not, you can use a copper or auminum washer to seal against a leak.
HTH
You are exactly correct about the taper fitting. I am just trying to fit a part into the mix that I see on parts diagrams and manuals.
oil hose oring, green viton, return to rear pan and oil cooler
[Part Number: 90706010]
I am wondering if someone before me has replaced the nipples and that there should be a groove or something to install the oring into.
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Wouldn't the o-ring go on the other end? You know, the side w/ a pair of flat surfaces to seal [crankcase to fitting] as opposed to the end w/ a taper fitting [fitting to oil line]?
But that's just my guess: I'm as much at sea as you are as to which is correct...
The "other side" (flat side) has the crush alumininum washers.
My bike came without the green orings, but my bike had a slight leak, and I am trying to put everything back "correctly".
The parts books and workshop manuals show this thing in an exploded diagram, so I really dont know exactly how it is installed, but this should be the right end.
The part number for this is
oil hose oring, green viton, return to rear pan and oil cooler
[Part Number: 90706010]
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HI,
I apologize in advance if this is covered somewhere.
I did look and I did not see it.
I am buttoning up the lower sump on my Rosso, and have a question about the oil send and return nipples that come out of the sump on the front and connect to the Oil Cooler.
I have attached a photo of my fittings. if you look closely I have fitted a green viton oring to the one on the right in a place that I THINK it may belong. There was nothing on these fitting when I took them off, but these orings are in all the parts diagrams, so I ordered them when I got my new gaskets and crush washers etc...
I cannot find a good diagram or description of how these should be installed in any of my resources. I have seen other posts talk of grooves in the fittings, but mine just have threads.
Comments, Suggestions?
Scott
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I'm with fotoguzzi on this one. To find your leak, clean the motor real well and spray the area with Aquanet hairspray. Then fire it up and you will see right where the leak is starting. The hairspray will then easily wash off.
Thanks foto and savage.
Hopefully I wont have to use the hairspray - the sumps are off and new gaskets are about to be installed. Everything is clean as a whistle and I am shooting for no more leaks!
But I will remember that trick the next time something like this comes up.
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I have a question.
I added the Roper plate to my Rosso Mandello over a year ago. I ended up with a leak. Not a real leak that is readily detectable, but a drip drip drip always when you arent looking leak. I suspect it is between the top oil sump and the enngine block around the plate itself, but that is mostly a guess. The oil seems to thinly spread out and drip down from the fins on the bottom of the motor. I have just pulled it all apart again and REALLY cleaned everything up. I actually washed the upper and lower sumps and I had several meals out of the lower one just because I could. Added all new gaskets and am ready to tighten up the screws.
I have a question that I would like opinions on.
Dave Richards in Guzziology (great book) says to anti-seize every aluminium thread to prevent corrosion. That makes a lot of sense. It is also how I put my roper plate in before.
Ratchet suggests Brakleen and threadlocker in every hole. That also makes a lot of sense.
I would be interested in hearing anyone's opinion about these two different ways of going about this before I close up my oilpan and "torque" the fasteners.
THANKS!!!!!
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Scott,
Don't let the budding "molly warming" thread worry you. Another
from me on the RLSH. Put it in & forget about it. Don't worry about the metal fuzz on the drain plug magnet, it's just doing its job. One thing though, I found on the first time through, there was quite a bit of black paste in the trans that would remain after a simple drain & fill. Removing the side cover for a proper clean out is the best thing. Nothing terribly important but I feel it best to start clean.Hi Dan,
Thanks,
Yep, I didnt mean to start a volcano, but I am sure not going to get in the middle of it. Both these guys have given me good advise on past questions and I value their opinions, but jeez - that chemistry lesson is what I left college for after nearly blowing up the lab.
I did the lube changes, didnt take off the cover, but I'll be back in there before long to look at those plugs and I probably will pull the cover and have a look see then. I still need to check those problamatic bearing anyway that I didnt get a chance to look at before.
Scott
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Here's how we established here that there was moly in RLSH.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hl=strawberries
Some folks here thought that pink color was ground-up strawberries or something.
You should use either a moly additive, such as Power Punch, or a lube that already contains moly.
Thanks Greg - told you I was pretty new here and that post was full of information. I always enjoyed history and that thread is the Red Line History story, I reckon.
Heck, I even saw that my buddy, Wick named a new (old) Grunge Band in that thread.
The Pink Mollys
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In any case, it's impossible to "backwards deduce" the specific form of molybdenum (there are likely very many possibilities) from what appears on a MSDS as general categories of oxides of molybdenum, which are byproducts of thermal decomposition.
Well - I used to manufacture a few products in a former life. I do know that MSDS are mainly provided for workers safety and the HASMAT team when they show up to the fire or spill. I wouldnt use one as a sales brochure or buying guide.
For anyone interested, I have a bottle of Red Line "Heavy" on my desk, and Moly included or not, it states on the label that it is "Compatible with petroleums and synthetics".
I take that to mean whether or not you need (or want) to, you probabaly could add the Moly into this stuff with at least no ill effects.
Now, I am going home in a bit, break out the Red Line and tomorrow......
Scott
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If your bike has a lot of miles on it, perhpas the oil was never changed, or it's been many miles in the past, or the drain plug was not wiped clean, or there is a real problem.
All good suggestions, thanks.
I wiped the mangets clean, have a brand new bottle of "heavy" on my desk, and when I get home, it's going into the drive.
I'll keep tabs for the next little bit on how the plugs look and if no more metal shows up, then I'll consider that a done deal.
Oh, the bike has about 7000 miles on it. Not exactly new, but not over the hill either. I have no maintenence information from the former owner, so I am changing everything and paying careful attention.
Scott
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Thanks for all the details, Ratchet
As I recall, someone once said, on some forum, somewhere,
"Inquiring Minds, " well, you know...
Scott
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Ok, I know oil and lubes have been covered exenstively in this forum, but I have to put this question out there anyway.
Some of you know from recent posts that I am reworking a Rosso Mandello V11 which I acquired in January.
I have got to the Changing of The Rear Drive and Transmission Lube part.
Here is what I think I know.
* The manual calls for 80w90 PODO (plain old dinosaur oil).
* The manual calls for a quantity of Moly additive to be included.
* Some in this forum (and others) have recommended a more modern synthetic oil, which makes sense to me.
* I have the moly additive on my shelf ready to go.
* Some others (Dave Richards of Guzziology) have reported of hearing of people who claim to know people that have heard from synthetic oil reps that the moly additive will seperate from some of the synthetic products.
Whats a fellow to do? PODO or modern synthetic oil? Additive or not? Will Marsha find out John cheated on her in Manila?
What do you Guzziologists do? (about Rear Drive Lube - not Marsha)
By the way - I drained both of these yesterday. The both have magnetic plugs. Both of the plugs have a three day beard growth of metal filings stuck to the magnets. Imagine that, filings stuck to the magnets.
Is that something to be concerned about?
By the by the way - The rear lube I drained from the drive definitly had a moly additive judging from the color. Either that or it has never been changed and was used to start with!
Scott
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The best part about buying my Rosso Mandello in January is this Forum.
I have posted a few questions so far and spent hours just browsing.
I feel like half of an expert already and its my first Guzzi.
Thanks for all the posts on the connectors - I knew this was the place to ask and I already see several probable answers, so instead of replying to each one -
Thanks
Scott
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Anybody out there know what the plug is that goes to the TPS sensor?
Mfg? Part number? etc?
I have seen / heard all kinds of good ideas here on the forum about accessing the TPS to read the voltages, but I would love to make a set of male/female plugs with a break-out for the VOM that I could plug in when needed, and take off when not.
Scott
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Scotch, I'm a user/dealer for both. VDSTS; http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-VDSTS.html -- DirectLink; http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-DirectLink.html
Indeed the VDSTS is diagnostic scan software, and it is written to cover a large group of ECUs. The VDSTS was once the *only* software used by the factory/dealer network for troubleshooting and tuning. It covers very basic corrective diagnostics for the 1.5M, and allows "trim" fueling adjustments at idle/low throttling.
The DirectLink is a total ECU access software program. It allows map access for fuel, timing and others. It was developed to be used by trained technicians on a dyno. However, that hasn't stopped handfuls from purchasing it to do timing tweaks for engine pinging. While one could potentially develop a fuel map, I still lean towards the PCIII/Tuning Link for that job... however, it can be done. Last I heard, years ago, from someone who used it, cost was well over $1000 USD for custom mapping.
I use it for timing adjustments only, since the PCIII does not.
Hope that helps.
Thanks Todd,
Also thanks for the info via our email conversation - didnt know I would be hitting you from both directions!
After listening to what you have said, I am going to thouroughly consider what it is I really want.
Maybe messing with the map is not such a great idea.
However, I do know of Maps which can be had for the Directlink tool that are quite a lot cheaper than $1000.
One other question, back to VDSTS. With a gasometer attachment, would it have other tuning applications for my bike?
You can tell I am dying to "mess" with something!!!
Thanks,
Scott
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Last weekend I tuned up my bikes TPS and balance the throttles.
I had the opportunity to use my friends VDSTS software from TechnoResearch. We hooked it up to my Rosso Mandello and with the help of reams of information from this forum, my bike now purrs like a kitten.
My friend has lots of bikes and owns the "PRO" version. It aint cheap.
For the 15M, many of its functions are "grayed out" (as in not available)
You can read TPS in degrees and RPM, etc, so it was useful in our endeavour.
Has anyone out there used the Directlink stuff from them? I ultimately want something I can tweak the map with. VDSTS is diagnostic only.
If Directlink also displays some basic real time information (like TPS in degrees or voltages and RPM), it seems to me you could use that one product for setting up your bike, instead of the VDSTS.
THere is just not much in the way of real Diagnostics for the 15M in the VDSTS software. Most of the functions it displays are only available for other ECU's.
For anyone out there familiar with these products, can you elaborate / comment?
Thanks - Scott
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I didn't know if you'd yet been able to verify the correct sequqence since then with a credible source.
Guzziology gives the order. Round heads dont have the bottom brass shim (the one I have problems with) and square heads do. Also the round heads have the spring next to the rocker while the square heads have the bronze washer next to the rocker then the spring.
Steel Shim
Spring
Bronze Shim
Rocker
Bronze Shim
Is the order he gives for Square heads.
He states in his book that the order is not really clearly specified anywhere else.
Again, I put it together, rode it for 5 minutes, let the bike sit for several days and took them apart today. There is oil oozing from the pores in the rocker assembly and everywere up top.
I could not see any particular way that bottom shim gets any oil except by plain old migration. The oil races seem to be lubricating the pivot on the rocker arms. Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I think I am going to put this one to bed for now...If that wear were up next to the spring or rocker arm itself, I would be more worried.
Scott
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I can't recall if you'd verified the proper sequence of the rocker spindle "stack"?? I know from previous posts on this that it isn't all that unusual to find a "meddled-with" rocker spindle stacked-up out o' sequence. Just thinking out loud, could a PO/mechanic have re-installed something in incorrect order, where you may have a spring incorrectly putting axial loads on the shims?
Maybe Greg or Pete have seen this one before??
I did say before, but the stack from Top to Bottom is
Steel Shim
Spring
Brass Shim
Rocker
Brass Shim
I actually found 1 out of 4 that the steel and brass shim were mixed up, but only 1 and it didnt seem to wear any differently from the others.
Scott
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I decided to pull one apart and take some photos to share with any of you who are interested.
Notice the circular abraison pattern on the rocker carrier and the matching face of the brass shim.
This is only on the one face of the shim and carrier mating surface.
It ONLY appears on the lower shim and it appears on ALL FOUR of them.
The rest of the rocker parts, shims and surfaces look good.
Top Shim on the left, Bottom (worn) Shim on the right.
Scott
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Sounds like the age where one advantage of leavin' 'em off is the longer you do, the women your age look younger and younger. . .
Women my age are scary looking
with or without the glasses. I am getting to that no glasses AND whisky age.I finally did find a diagram in the "transmission" section of the workshop manual that shows that shim. Not labeled, mind you, but it a part in the exploded view.
Funny its not mentioned it the section of the manual where you are taking the wheel off = removing the spindle and leaving it free to roll around on my garage floor!
Oh well, time to call up my buddy Wick and ask him to hold on to one side of my spindle again.
Scott
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+1 on that, Scotch. So we are almost 200% sure now
Once again, Raz and Ratchet - Thanks.
I'll look at the service manual once more, but I'll bet you are right, that was the pile of stuff it was in the neighborhood of, I just couldnt find a washer like that in the diagrams I was looking for.
Then again, I am getting to the age where I cant decide whether to take my glasses off or put them on to read better?
Scott
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In the past couple of weeks, I have had my new RM up on stands. I changed out the fairing back to stock, took off both front and rear wheels, had the tank off, valve covers and rocker assemplies apart, steering head dissambled, and of course the seat off. Sometime during this melee, I dropped this washer into the pile of parts for the rear spindle assembly. I really DONT remember exactly when it surfaced, but in my mind I believed it to go in there somewhere.
I do remember that the part "turned up" and wasnt just disassembled into the pile. Sort of like the spacer in the rear drive. It was on the spindle and fell off, then I put it in the parts pile for the rear.
Trouble is with this part, I dont remember when or where it turned up.
Anyway, there is nothing I can find in the shop manual or the parts manual that looks like this in the rear.
AND IN FACT, I cannot find anywhere that I am happy putting it.
There is a possibility that it didnt even come off the bike, because I "tinker" and this could be the dregs of some other forgotten project in the garage.
OH, the size is 40mmOD and 25mmID - I think too big for the rear spindle even. Steering Head?
Any help will be appreciated.
Scott
Sump bolt torque value?
in How to...
Posted
I'll tell you what - this is real customer service.
I am still getting help after all this time. What a great place.
Looking back, I see I never updated this thread after I put my sump back together. I cleaned everything with brake-kleen, locktighted the inside, threadlocked the outside and nary a drop of oil has come from the engine since. More oil is in my hair than the bottom of that engine.
BTW-
"nary a drop" is Tennessee talk - it means "an absense of even a small amount of the substance" in English.