Scotch

I'll tell you what - this is real customer service. I am still getting help after all this time. What a great place. Looking back, I see I never updated this thread after I put my sump back together. I cleaned everything with brake-kleen, locktighted the inside, threadlocked the outside and nary a drop of oil has come from the engine since. More oil is in my hair than the bottom of that engine. BTW- "nary a drop" is Tennessee talk - it means "an absense of even a small amount of the substance" in English.

Bill, I had black orings with a different part number for that. Assuming you mean the tubes inside the pan that connect the oil filter assembly to the pan. But I'll check my parts list and diagram again when I go home. !Thanks! Scott

You still looking for this? I have a spare

Yup I put it together today Left out the little green orings with no home Put a dab of blue thread locker on it just to make me feel better And filled it up with oil No leaks from the tubes Thanks all Scott

You are exactly correct about the taper fitting. I am just trying to fit a part into the mix that I see on parts diagrams and manuals. oil hose oring, green viton, return to rear pan and oil cooler [Part Number: 90706010] I am wondering if someone before me has replaced the nipples and that there should be a groove or something to install the oring into.

The "other side" (flat side) has the crush alumininum washers. My bike came without the green orings, but my bike had a slight leak, and I am trying to put everything back "correctly". The parts books and workshop manuals show this thing in an exploded diagram, so I really dont know exactly how it is installed, but this should be the right end. The part number for this is oil hose oring, green viton, return to rear pan and oil cooler [Part Number: 90706010]

HI, I apologize in advance if this is covered somewhere. I did look and I did not see it. I am buttoning up the lower sump on my Rosso, and have a question about the oil send and return nipples that come out of the sump on the front and connect to the Oil Cooler. I have attached a photo of my fittings. if you look closely I have fitted a green viton oring to the one on the right in a place that I THINK it may belong. There was nothing on these fitting when I took them off, but these orings are in all the parts diagrams, so I ordered them when I got my new gaskets and crush washers etc... I cannot find a good diagram or description of how these should be installed in any of my resources. I have seen other posts talk of grooves in the fittings, but mine just have threads. Comments, Suggestions? Scott

Thanks foto and savage. Hopefully I wont have to use the hairspray - the sumps are off and new gaskets are about to be installed. Everything is clean as a whistle and I am shooting for no more leaks! But I will remember that trick the next time something like this comes up.

I have a question. I added the Roper plate to my Rosso Mandello over a year ago. I ended up with a leak. Not a real leak that is readily detectable, but a drip drip drip always when you arent looking leak. I suspect it is between the top oil sump and the enngine block around the plate itself, but that is mostly a guess. The oil seems to thinly spread out and drip down from the fins on the bottom of the motor. I have just pulled it all apart again and REALLY cleaned everything up. I actually washed the upper and lower sumps and I had several meals out of the lower one just because I could. Added all new gaskets and am ready to tighten up the screws. I have a question that I would like opinions on. Dave Richards in Guzziology (great book) says to anti-seize every aluminium thread to prevent corrosion. That makes a lot of sense. It is also how I put my roper plate in before. Ratchet suggests Brakleen and threadlocker in every hole. That also makes a lot of sense. I would be interested in hearing anyone's opinion about these two different ways of going about this before I close up my oilpan and "torque" the fasteners. THANKS!!!!!

Hi Dan, Thanks, Yep, I didnt mean to start a volcano, but I am sure not going to get in the middle of it. Both these guys have given me good advise on past questions and I value their opinions, but jeez - that chemistry lesson is what I left college for after nearly blowing up the lab. I did the lube changes, didnt take off the cover, but I'll be back in there before long to look at those plugs and I probably will pull the cover and have a look see then. I still need to check those problamatic bearing anyway that I didnt get a chance to look at before. Scott

Thanks Greg - told you I was pretty new here and that post was full of information. I always enjoyed history and that thread is the Red Line History story, I reckon. Heck, I even saw that my buddy, Wick named a new (old) Grunge Band in that thread. The Pink Mollys

Well - I used to manufacture a few products in a former life. I do know that MSDS are mainly provided for workers safety and the HASMAT team when they show up to the fire or spill. I wouldnt use one as a sales brochure or buying guide. For anyone interested, I have a bottle of Red Line "Heavy" on my desk, and Moly included or not, it states on the label that it is "Compatible with petroleums and synthetics". I take that to mean whether or not you need (or want) to, you probabaly could add the Moly into this stuff with at least no ill effects. Now, I am going home in a bit, break out the Red Line and tomorrow...... Scott

All good suggestions, thanks. I wiped the mangets clean, have a brand new bottle of "heavy" on my desk, and when I get home, it's going into the drive. I'll keep tabs for the next little bit on how the plugs look and if no more metal shows up, then I'll consider that a done deal. Oh, the bike has about 7000 miles on it. Not exactly new, but not over the hill either. I have no maintenence information from the former owner, so I am changing everything and paying careful attention. Scott

Thanks for all the details, Ratchet As I recall, someone once said, on some forum, somewhere, "Inquiring Minds, " well, you know... Scott

Ok, I know oil and lubes have been covered exenstively in this forum, but I have to put this question out there anyway. Some of you know from recent posts that I am reworking a Rosso Mandello V11 which I acquired in January. I have got to the Changing of The Rear Drive and Transmission Lube part. Here is what I think I know. * The manual calls for 80w90 PODO (plain old dinosaur oil). * The manual calls for a quantity of Moly additive to be included. * Some in this forum (and others) have recommended a more modern synthetic oil, which makes sense to me. * I have the moly additive on my shelf ready to go. * Some others (Dave Richards of Guzziology) have reported of hearing of people who claim to know people that have heard from synthetic oil reps that the moly additive will seperate from some of the synthetic products. Whats a fellow to do? PODO or modern synthetic oil? Additive or not? Will Marsha find out John cheated on her in Manila? What do you Guzziologists do? (about Rear Drive Lube - not Marsha) By the way - I drained both of these yesterday. The both have magnetic plugs. Both of the plugs have a three day beard growth of metal filings stuck to the magnets. Imagine that, filings stuck to the magnets. Is that something to be concerned about? By the by the way - The rear lube I drained from the drive definitly had a moly additive judging from the color. Either that or it has never been changed and was used to start with! Scott

The best part about buying my Rosso Mandello in January is this Forum. I have posted a few questions so far and spent hours just browsing. I feel like half of an expert already and its my first Guzzi. Thanks for all the posts on the connectors - I knew this was the place to ask and I already see several probable answers, so instead of replying to each one - Thanks Scott

Anybody out there know what the plug is that goes to the TPS sensor? Mfg? Part number? etc? I have seen / heard all kinds of good ideas here on the forum about accessing the TPS to read the voltages, but I would love to make a set of male/female plugs with a break-out for the VOM that I could plug in when needed, and take off when not. Scott

Thanks Todd, Also thanks for the info via our email conversation - didnt know I would be hitting you from both directions! After listening to what you have said, I am going to thouroughly consider what it is I really want. Maybe messing with the map is not such a great idea. However, I do know of Maps which can be had for the Directlink tool that are quite a lot cheaper than $1000. One other question, back to VDSTS. With a gasometer attachment, would it have other tuning applications for my bike? You can tell I am dying to "mess" with something!!! Thanks, Scott

Last weekend I tuned up my bikes TPS and balance the throttles. I had the opportunity to use my friends VDSTS software from TechnoResearch. We hooked it up to my Rosso Mandello and with the help of reams of information from this forum, my bike now purrs like a kitten. My friend has lots of bikes and owns the "PRO" version. It aint cheap. For the 15M, many of its functions are "grayed out" (as in not available) You can read TPS in degrees and RPM, etc, so it was useful in our endeavour. Has anyone out there used the Directlink stuff from them? I ultimately want something I can tweak the map with. VDSTS is diagnostic only. If Directlink also displays some basic real time information (like TPS in degrees or voltages and RPM), it seems to me you could use that one product for setting up your bike, instead of the VDSTS. THere is just not much in the way of real Diagnostics for the 15M in the VDSTS software. Most of the functions it displays are only available for other ECU's. For anyone out there familiar with these products, can you elaborate / comment? Thanks - Scott

Guzziology gives the order. Round heads dont have the bottom brass shim (the one I have problems with) and square heads do. Also the round heads have the spring next to the rocker while the square heads have the bronze washer next to the rocker then the spring. Steel Shim Spring Bronze Shim Rocker Bronze Shim Is the order he gives for Square heads. He states in his book that the order is not really clearly specified anywhere else. Again, I put it together, rode it for 5 minutes, let the bike sit for several days and took them apart today. There is oil oozing from the pores in the rocker assembly and everywere up top. I could not see any particular way that bottom shim gets any oil except by plain old migration. The oil races seem to be lubricating the pivot on the rocker arms. Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I think I am going to put this one to bed for now...If that wear were up next to the spring or rocker arm itself, I would be more worried. Scott

I did say before, but the stack from Top to Bottom is Steel Shim Spring Brass Shim Rocker Brass Shim I actually found 1 out of 4 that the steel and brass shim were mixed up, but only 1 and it didnt seem to wear any differently from the others. Scott

I decided to pull one apart and take some photos to share with any of you who are interested. Notice the circular abraison pattern on the rocker carrier and the matching face of the brass shim. This is only on the one face of the shim and carrier mating surface. It ONLY appears on the lower shim and it appears on ALL FOUR of them. The rest of the rocker parts, shims and surfaces look good. Top Shim on the left, Bottom (worn) Shim on the right. Scott

Women my age are scary looking with or without the glasses. I am getting to that no glasses AND whisky age. I finally did find a diagram in the "transmission" section of the workshop manual that shows that shim. Not labeled, mind you, but it a part in the exploded view. Funny its not mentioned it the section of the manual where you are taking the wheel off = removing the spindle and leaving it free to roll around on my garage floor! Oh well, time to call up my buddy Wick and ask him to hold on to one side of my spindle again. Scott

Once again, Raz and Ratchet - Thanks. I'll look at the service manual once more, but I'll bet you are right, that was the pile of stuff it was in the neighborhood of, I just couldnt find a washer like that in the diagrams I was looking for. Then again, I am getting to the age where I cant decide whether to take my glasses off or put them on to read better? Scott