CFB

My sympathies... Yep, Sports do wear that way...

I would have thought the pad pin, with the additional safety of a pad pin R-clip, pretty much nailed the pad against bidding for freedom? Meanwhile I've ended up with Brembo 'snowflake' rotors, 08.2003.84, ex Yoyodyne. USD120.75ea. Just a touch different to AUD688ea, for OE, via a MG dealer!

Aprilia Part AP8152286 - hex head screw with flange. Appreciably cheaper and a better option, thinking ahead, for the next time the rotors have to come off.

Yeah, took me until just recently to find spec on minimum thickness. I laugh at these - "minimum thickness engraved on disc": 08489982, 08489991, 08489993 Maybe if you recognise yours that will tell you what you need to know. Breva 1100 type rotors ~US$320 per pair? Wow! Looks like I will definitely be importing to avoid local price gouging. I don't need to go fancy. I've worn my 08489982s down to sub 3mm without warping or complaint (so much for 3.6mm minimum thickness). Though one set of pads, I got from a Ducati dealer, only lasted 8000km. Maybe that helped...?

Cross referencing with the likes of Metalgear (which is useful in that they they advise all the disc's dimensions) suggests some of the bikes in the long list use a 104mm diameter bolt hole. So the note to watch the measurements is very wise. Any one ever tried EBC rotors? I've found MD614LS & MD614RS for GBP294 (inc. postage), which looks pretty tempting. [And very different to the local quote of AUD820 for EBC!]

Frequency to voltage convertor chips aren't anything exotic, eg. LM2917. I would think the problem is as much that if you scratch build a new circuit on vero board you might struggle to fit the electronics back into the case.

Ignitech TCIP4 is software configurable and has a channel to drive an EXUP-style servo. My Stewart Warner sat on the shelf for years, but it was well over AU$50 less than a replacement Veglia at the time. Nearly there now... Stewart Warner homepage No shortage of distributors.

Which Stewart Warner tach? If you get one of the more expensive ones that is settable down to 1-PPR (pulse per revolution) then you can simply pick up off one coil. However most of the models have 2-PPR as the lowest setting. If not using the signal from from the ECU, then the Mega Squirt trick of a diode from each coil, feeding into a single reversed zener diode will drive the SW. I'm still in the process of fitting a 114002 to my Sport. That little bit deeper than a Veglia has made for all sorts of fun.

Being of mind to add a cush-drive to my 1995 Sport, I borrowed a V11 LeMans wheel. The spacing provided by the brake carrier makes the wheel run on centre, so that's one win. I expected the reaction rod support bracket to displace the bevel box: Numerous means to recover some of that sideways displacement, but not all of it. The Sport 1100i had a 160/70R17 standard. So I wasn't expecting to run the 180/55 as was on this rim (which made for some fun on the trial fitting while it was in-out, in-out etc to measure it all up) I am not inclined to think a Sport 1100i bevel box housing would get everything straightened out. Can someone advise if the Sport 1100i had a 5.5" rim? If so there has got to be some other bits that changed because if I get the bevel box nestling snugly up against the cush driving plate, the UJ is going to interfere with the rim big time: The UJ guard had to come off just for this dry run / with the bevel box hard up against the swing arm. I love the post on fitting a 6" Aprilia rim to a Daytona. Out of my league.

As Brembo part numbers, to best of my knowledge: 08.DU01.32FD (cast iron) 08.YA00.32 (stainless) With a 9.5mm disc offset: 08.6703.11 These are all full floating 9.5mm disc offset, "fixed" disc 08.2003.70, 08.4899.82, 08.4899.91 & 08.4899.93

I'd suggest upgrading to a Shindengen, or similar, rather than replacing the Ducati rectifier. I installed a Shindengen DU-627, but I believe that model has been superceded. Bolted straight in, no mods - aside from need to connect an earth lead, which is a step up anyway from earthing through he case. I'll see if I still have the Ducati case lurking in the garage to post an image. Despite the encapsulation epoxy, or whatever it is, I found white fluffy corrosion on the interior which going by my ohm-meter was not conductive. Not good, given the power transistors were bolted to the case to help shed their heat. Hot transistors, especially encapsulated, don't last very long. Double biatch in that its only a $2 transistor that equals one very dead rectifier, but with all the epoxy its completely impossible to get to the transistor.

Beyote; I can relate to your Sport 100 sentiments. For a replacement for a Digiplex ignition system try www.ignitech.cz Their TCIP4 is fully programmable, and a fraction of the price of a Silent Hektik (which only has a choice of preset ignition curves). The four plus one tooth arrangement on the flywheel, that inputs to the Digiplex, happens to match one model R6 (I forget which year). So its not too hard to figure out the program settings. The ignitech unit could be set up to vary advance with engine vacuum, to completely preserve the original setup, as it has an input for a throttle position sensor; For the alternative, I have yet to see a TPS that readily integrated with a Dellorto carb. When my rebuild is finished & the TCIP4 properly wired in I'll have a Digiplex available for loan / sale. The other attraction to fitting V11 gearbox etc to a carb model Sport is to get a cush-drive. I've long learnt to ride around not having one, but its still damn hard on the gearbox. Its just physics; one day its got to tell...

I put early cam troubles down to commuting in Sydney. I had the clutch plates down to the rivets in 35,000k... Tantamount to abuse, doing the commute, I know, but up to the point of wearing bits out its been a brilliantly reliable machine. And too much fun to leave it in first and set off the car alarms - like babies crying for Mummy to get that scarey machine away from them - among other enjoyable moments... Followers are stuffed; cam needs a bit more than a polish, and for having pulled it out it would be foolish to put it back in as is. All I've heard amiss about early 1100 Sport cams is that the hardening quality was variable. Part number is the same as the V11s.

I'm up for new cam, followers, guides and valves. Or the equivalent in regrinds, inserts etc. A tad disappointing for only a bit over 40,000km. In Guzziology there is a note that the B10 grind could solve many of the Sport 1100s running problems at the expanse of approx 5% top end. I could work with that - I very rarely go anywhere near redline. On a more original route HMB have V11 cams. I'm not aware of any difference between the V11 and Sport 1100 cam. Just hopefully 2000s manufacture being better than 1990s. Other grinds obviously available but, rather than take it on the supplier's assertion, does anyone have any specific experiences?