greenmonster
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Posts posted by greenmonster
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FYI:
New chip f MyP8 mentioned here
http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl?num=1258118188/15#15
&
http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl?num=1277072713
does improve starting.
Free upgrade!
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without accel pump[/i]. My plugin does that too.
That`s real handy.
I was mixing up gadgets earlier (5-6 beers might have contributed).
I meant that a LM-1 w RPM kit http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php & a LC-1 you can log & alter as you`ve done. But that`s no news, I guess....
Seems real practical, though, w that average function you mentioned.
Borrowed this setup, gonna give it a try.
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So this is the average Lambda value of each cell fr 45 min ride?
I believe the LC-1 & Logworks/Innovate software can do that, too.
Log w LC-1, download to PC & open w Logworks/Innovate.
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After I got the accurate parts in my starter mechanism,
I`ve had no kickbacks & good starts. Luhbos advice also helped.
Just in case someone searches f answers regarding Duc 2V starts.
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,many thx f sharing & effort!
When my bike is starting (close now)
, Logworks logging will be the next subject.My main problem is,
what to do w all the data....
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Thx f your effort, raz!
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I'm visiting Gelleråsen for Classic Racing this weekend (how about you? Your Ducati club will be there!) and I'll test this on that trip.
Been having almost a summer vacation like school kids, 7 weeks at my countryside cottage so really have to start working now.
Although I know we have our Annual meeting & Club championship race Sunday...
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my WOT is 993
IRL on the road readings on the Optimiser? W 150mV TPS base setting as a starting point?
This resulted in my next map to try: completely linear breakpoints.RPM breakpoints only that is, not TPS?
Just tryin to follow your thoughts...
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So,
bike really feels good now, even reached the state where I have to add fuel.
Fuel ec now just over 0,60L/10km`s, what`s the secret f better economy, any tips & tricks?
What ec do you have w MyECU?
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Think I`ll stick w the factory sealing, no silicone etc, thx.
My box is like yours, lubho.
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Thx f sharing, punch!
And now, something completely different:
What type of sealant is best for waterproofing the case?
I have a P7/8 case and I guess I need to open after sealing it since I have no custom fittings f connections.
From factory there hardly seems to be any so how anal do you have to be?
Loctite/Plastic Padding preferred as easiest to find.
I have thoroughly laquered the PCB.
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Read a book today and learned something, maybe.
My thought:
Why do some ign maps have 1 or 2 rows between start & idle, like 2 between 600 & 1100RPM?
Book said if/when idle is weak/dropping, if the row below ideal idle RPM has higher ign than idle row, it helps keeping idle steady
if manifold pressure or if A/F is weak at idle etc, acc to book.
True or false?
EDIT: Tried 217 Ign Adv at top 4 TPS & from 5500RPM, throttle response seems killer when I just started.
Cheers, mates, a little drunk on my birthday.
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Yep, thx, not touching Optimiser while driving.
When WOT f 10 secs, then just no throttle f 5-10 s, and then a little cruising throttle:
How low Inj dur can you set in 6-9k RPM, les than 500 TPS without hiccups/hesitation, like 1,5 or what?
You guys who log: Tested w A/F meter & Optimiser to see TPS, hard to drive & check data I`ve realized. <_>
But logging, don`t you get to much info to handle? Do you do very short runs or what?
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The Optimiser shows TPS (0-1023) in most of its screens. It also shows what map cell coordinate you are at (like 5,7). And O2 reading of course. In the Baro menu you will also be able to monitor oil temp and air temp in degrees Celsius and air pressure in mBar.
Great, thx, forgot the Optimiser´s possibilities, I`m gonna borrow one again.
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Anyone tried any Voltmeter gadget on ECU to check TPS degrees while driving? Or is it a feature in Optimiser?
AF meter f sure is good but would be nice to know more exact at what degree TPS I`m looking at.
Something simple +/- from pin 11 & 18 (IIRC) on ECU wouldn`t be too hard.
(& start is very good and subtracting & subtracting fuel now...
)Where are the Air T & Oil T sensors located on a V11? Pics?
Just courious f comparison & eventual problems w other models & brands.
My Air T is at the back wall of my airbox, probably OK when riding normally but f city rush hour?
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Do you know what A/F you are running? Low 13's? Or closer to 14:1?
First day of riding w a HalMeter AF30, 90% of the time 12.8-13.2 my guessings so far quite good or AFmeter is inaccurate...
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So,
anyone w new developments, lads?
I just expirienced luhbos "less is more", oh so true again....
Just testing 5% less fuel 4500-9k RPM, 06-12 TPS, acc real good.
My liquidcooled bike definately needs lees of regarding starting (prime), Air t corrections, Oil T choking etc.
Definitely less tha a V11 f e!
(& yes, starting works perfect!
) And you, raz, any ign timing experiences to tell us?
I`ll remenber you, luhbo, wanted to try somthing this spring, also timing adv or what?
Anyone else chiming in?
Just courious.
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A small step f mankind but a big f me, at least it feels like it after some weeks hard struggle....
Yep, starts real good now.
Giving the long answer, maybe someone will learn fr it...:
1. Fresh items in starter mechanism.
2. Diminishing gap ign sensor 0.30mm, about 0.45 now, +/- 0.10.
3. Battery fully charged, plug spark checked-perfect.
4. TDC=1, Priming set to 1 & throttle cable turned back a lot to avoid kickbacks etc.
5. Tried cranking (NO THROTTLE), only goal good turning over w/o kickbacks. It does so.
6. Was about to do TPS base setting basics allover, but thought "I`ll just try basic V11 Priming & see what happends." Almost start.
7. Full idle lever-starts real good, no kickbacks either!
8. Some mapping TDC=0, 600 RPM & 6 degrees quite good.
9. After a bit fiddling w throttle cable, start is very good & also idle.
Hard to say if TDC=1 or 0 w 6 degrees is best.
2nd &3rd RPM breaks are 1200 & 1500, 10 degrees first 6 rows TPS in both seems very good & stable.
Prime f 10-20-25-30 degrees C is 12-10-8-7.
Temp C is +4.1 - +1,9 - 0 - 0.
Inj adv is 517 overall.
Idles at about 160 in Ecucontroller. Maybe too high by the book, but works.
Starts w/o any problems, again & again! Didn`t know that could feel like a medium good private moment w yourself....
My conclusion:
Good starter mechanism & battery obviously good but no major factor.
Less fuel w starting good but maybe not significant.
Ign sensor gap only radical thing done so probably major factor.
And, NO THROTTLE at all while starting!! My frustration got me fiddling w that, screwing up pressure. I feel that is a major factor.
Many Thanks f all help!
Edit 22/5: 100 km ride. Starts fine cold/hot, even cold w lights on. Life is good again.
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have you done what VIJ suggested in post #326?
No, but I will cause I have to open alternator cover soon.
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Good news!
And valuable tips f us searching f the same goal, thx!
Edit: Changed my first RPM break too, fr 600 to 800. Felt it helped abit.
(76-77 on Optimiser)Stupid question but to b sure: That is the same value you get on the slider for TPS in Ecucontrol?
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If the voltage booster is working, you should see >15V at D17.
My ecu has been tested by you, Cliff, & you made additional wiring from what looks like Q5 to big chip.
Wiring is secured w silicon and D17 is under that so no measuring possible. Or have is mislocated D17?
Only pic I have of PCB: http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/pics/MyP8MkIII_PCB.png
Would be easier if it wasn`t reversed.
Test today, w fully charged batt acc to C-tec. Took a ride.
Starts w no kickbacks, hot or cold.
Differences before/after kickbacks:
1. Prime 10-20-25-30C: 18-14-10-9/12-10-10-9mS.
2. Old battery did turn over engine w/o problems w no plugcaps/Now new, fully charged battery.
3. Full idle lever which gave before 1400/Now 1800 RPM right after start when cold.
4. RPM break 1: 600/800.
I cannot say what definitely fixed my problem, my guess is as good as you so please have a go!
But think I`ll check my ignition to try and see what I have in reality,
no noticeable difference between 0 & 14 degrees when starting is too strange.
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Green monster. Just a long shot. What is your pickup clearance? If it is a bit on the big side or if your pickups are week it might miss a few of the targets when she is running on the starter due to the low RPM and low induced voltage. Try to reduce the clerarance.
I am running my monster on 0,4mm even if the manual says 0.8mm from memory to avoid some low rpm hickups
Thx, will check that, will probably check my starter elements again soon....
Progress, several starts w/o kickbacks!
New battery, charged thoroughly w C-tec to full juice.
No significant difference.
Tried mapping, ended up w this: TDCWhileCranking=1, Priming 10-20-25-30C > 12-1010-9mS (thx luhbo & punch!).
Seemed good, frustrating that different setting didn`t alter starts significantly.
Altered idle lever so it has 17-1800 RPM when started, idle lever on full.
Together w juust a little throttle, almost kickback free start.
Volt meter on battery while starting, 3 starts was 10.80-10.56-10.80V while cranking.
Added small car battery charger, 5,5Ah.
Kickback free start several times in a row!
Measured V when starting w car charger: over 11V.
Finally some results, put C-tec back on f charging to full.
A few
, fully charged and several starts again w/o kickbacks! So, I obviously need very good juice when starting.
All electric connections are checked, fuses, earth etc.
My battery will not always be perfectly charged so what do I do?
Buy a Odyssey battery w more cranking juice or can I alter something in MyECU?
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Just for peace of mind, can you check with a timing light that the TDC is where the ECU thinks it is? I think it's odd that TDC ignition kicks back
Also find that strange, unfortunately I don`t have a timing light.
are you able to log the MyEcu? If so, could you post a logfile of your starting attempts?Alternatively, is your starter ok? You don't have a Valeo in your bike?
Have you checked the battery voltage while you're pressing the starter button/while the starter is working?
Another check: if you're trained enough to jump start your bike (pushing or down hill), have you done so already, with your actual map? How does it behave then, does it start remarkably better if you jump start it ?
And finaly: is it engine temperature dependent? Same bad starting cold and hot?
No separate log equipment, would the log file from Ecucontrol be useful?
Starter is Nippon-Denso, cleaned & w fresh brushes.
Will check juice when starting, good idea.
Jump start real easy.
Kickbacks hot or cold.
Is your voltage booster on the ecu operating? Check the voltage on the right side of D17.What value should I expect when measuring? Should I do it when attempting to start?
The starting problem he had was probably because he left the bike stood for long periods and as you know the clock on Paso's will drain the battery, I think the crank speed was then too slow for the ign timing that was being used.Disconnected clock this spring.
Crank speed/inertia is the reason I`ve asked if the MyECU had Revolutions w/o firing at starting as option. A rev or two w/o ignition would help starting.
Thx f 907 story, pasotibbs, how are your kickback problem now?
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Working hard in garage, contemplating/appreciating all efforts.
Some progress today, will get back when decent results.Greenmonster, Is switch 3 off on your Ecu?All switches are off, that is all switches are down to the 1-2-3-4-side.
I`ve had the first (O2-switch) on before today, is that correct (I want open loop)?
Battery is getting tired fr all these efforts, I`ll be back w results incl a fresh battery.
Thx all f chiming in!
The MyECU thread
in How to...
Posted
Btw, no MyECU activity here?
I`s all over at http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl or what?
I do think there`s alot of MyECU users still here, or?
But everybody`s just happy w their MyECUs, or?