jsciullo
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Posts posted by jsciullo
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Some have said the Redline solved the problem (I run "lightweight", but probably more guys use the "heavyweight."
Others have had success just taking the switch out and cleaning it (it's under the starter).
I had to replace mine at 54,000 miles.
The change interval on the fluid is 6,000 miles, although I just ran my Redline twice that far.
Surely (Shirley?), your 'box doesn't have the original fish oil?
[i hesitate to even mention that you should avoid all manner of Australian Yak Fat, even if it 'claims' to be organic/synthetic/or an aphrodisiac. Do not rub it on any of your parts, or even your bike.]
I did replace the tranny fluid and rear drive fluid today. The light is still on but the bike shifts much better.
Jim
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Yes, .850 liters is the same as 850 cc's or 850 milliliters.
Thanks!!!
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I may have posted this previously in the wrong section. Im getting ready to do a change and notice that the book tells me that I need .850L of fluid but others in the "How To" section reference 850cc's. Im going to assume that numbers are the same but are they? I dont want to overfill.
Thanks,
Jim
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I may have posted this previously in the wrong section. Im getting ready to do a change and notice that the book tells me that I need .850L of fluid but others in the "How To" section reference 850cc's. Im going to assume that numbers are the same but are they? I dont want to overfill.
Thanks,
Jim
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Heres what I was able to dig up with a search. I bought one but havent used it yet. Anyone have another alternative?
http://www.guzzitech.com/photos/EVBreatherHose.jpg
On Guzzitech somebody posted a Ford heater hose that appears to be perfectly curved for the V11EV.
It may also fit our bike:
http://www.guzzitech.com/EVBreatherHose-Joe_B.html
Pictured below is the Goodyear Ford hose #63318 compared to the EV hose
Here is the NAPAonline part number and description:
Item#: NBH10912
Price: $ 26.79
Attributes:
Attributes: Hose - Heater
I.D.(s): .62'' x .62'' x .62''
Length: 23.7''
Jim
Jim
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I wanted to ping the board to see if anyone has any info on Eastern Michigan University. I have a daughter that wants to go there but never heard of the place. Anyone care to comment.
Thanks,
Jim
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About 10k miles or four years old. Time for replacement Im sure but the neutral light issue has been around since day one.Lots of the tachs read optimistically relative to what the ECU is seeing from the crank sensor,; often as much as 300-500 rpm. That could be giving you an idle of 600-800. The only way to know for sure is to cpmpare your tach reading to a software "dashboard" like Axone or VDSTS. In the meantime, she would probably be "happier" at a higher idle.Not that this would account for your "problem with the tach and headlight. That certainly smacks of a connection problem under the relays.
How old is the gear oil?
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What's the status on your battery? And your tach indication at idle?
The battery is new as of this spring and I fully charged it on Weds thinking that might be a problem. My tach at idle is around 1100 RPM.
Jim
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It has been reported that the connectors under the relays can loosen up. At the very least, use a good contact cleaner on the relay blades and the connector blocks. Some have reported having to 'tighten up' some of the connections in the connector blocks.
The seats of the early Sports tend to contact the relays and may affect their reliability. The under side of the seat can be relieved with a Dremel until no signs of contact remain.
The neutral light stays on either because the neutral switch is stuck on or the wire to it is pinched. The switches can be cleaned and often function better in RedLine gear lube. Otherwise, thy are easy to replace.
Having removed and replaced the starter or airbox could, potentially, trap the wire to the switch and short it.
Im going to take your advice and get some contact cleaner. as for the nuetral light it stays on up to around the 5k rpm mark then goes off. Its dim and flickers at the lower rpm and gets stronger as the rpms increase. It never goes to its full brightness however even when Im in neutral.
Jim
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Jim,
In the 'run' mode, power to these components flows through both the open Start Relay and the closed Headlight Relay as well as Fuse 5.
In the 'start' mode, the Start Relay closes, simultaneously blocking power to the headlamp Relay and diverting 12V to the starter solenoid.
No starting trouble ever? The starter never hesitates to engage?
Doc-
To anser your question, the starter always engages but I would classify it as a hard start. Sometimes several trys to get the bike to run without stalling but this bike has always been this way and always starts.
I did a couple of things after my last message. I swapped out the 15A fuse for another - same problem. I unplugged the PC3 and same issue. Put the PC3 back in - same problem. I pulled the headlamp relay and replaced it with another relay- same result. Then I moved all the relays around and the lights/tach, etc... all came on worked for a 45 min ride perfectly. Just went down and checked and all is well.
So I guess we can say the issue is somewhere within the relays. I dont know if its a bad relay or if by removing and reseating the relays some connection got reconnected or what. The relay tray (I dont know what its called but it holds all the relays) floats a bit and I did reach up under neith it to push the base of the tray and its wires tighter to the relays. Maybe I reconnected something. Given that everything now works I guess we can single out that the relay is NOT the cause.
This has happened before where the bike runs fine for a while and then it goes back to this mode. Maybe something is comming loose under the relay tray? Any suggestions on where to look or how to test for a bad relay?
Jim
PS - Once this is fixed maybe we can move on to my constantly on Neutral light.
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If I'm reading right, you're saying that the brake light and horns do not work?
Also, when the key is turned on, there are no oil or battery indicator lamps?
Correct. I took it for a ride a few mins ago and now the tach/headlamp/brakelights do not turn on at all. I have a PC3 hooked up to it now. Im going to remove it to see if that might be the culprit. Also, what relay would control the tach/headlamp/brakelights/horn? Im wondering if that might be a problem as well.
Jim
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DOc-
You hit the nail on the head. I didnt notice that the brake lights or horn also didnt work. I dont know if the relay is sealed or not but it was onte OMRONs that were recommended from this list. I checked the condition of the #5 fuse and it looks fine but thats the extent of my electronic no-how. Any suggestions on what I should start checking? Remember now, Im a complete moron with electronics so use words that a moron should understand.
Thanks,
Jim
The Starter Relay may be sticking in the closed position. I wouldn't expect this with OMRON, but it's one possibility. Did you get the sealed relays?Fuse 5 and its connections are also suspect.
I suspect, with this, the horn will not blow nor will the brake light come on. Have a check on that last one and post back.
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Here's a weird one. This has been happening for a number of years now. Sometimes - when I start my bike and turn the key to the start position - the headlamp light up. When I hit the starter the headlamp goes out - the bike starts but the headlamp & the tach do not work. The tach bounces around a little but doesnt go above 1K RPM. After about 20 mins the tach comes on and so does the headlamp. It usually stays on - sometimes, although rare the tach and headlamp shut off and comes on again latter in the ride. Its not usually an issue - unless its dark. What might be causing this? I've replaced relays numerous times and now have the Omicron??? Everything else on the bike works fine when the light/tach goes out. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jim
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Does anyone know how you get Power Commander Maps from the GuzziTech page? I have an older PC (serial interface) on my '00 - V11 Sport and want to try out another map (3.03.03 - Tom H's V11 Sport - Open airbox lid w/K&N, stock crossover, Mistral pipes. TL'ed by Rahns Engineering of Abington, MA) but cant seem to find the location of the map on this web page http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Maps.html. Any suggestions or how can I can I contact Tom.
Thanks,
Jim
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I would use UFI filters. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 20/50. Get the Roper plate and oil filters from Greg @ Moto International. Get the brake switch (after pinching the connectors with side cutters) from Greg also. It is not going to hurt to buy OEM parts because that is how dealerships stay in business. I don't know if grand Rapids Guzzi is still open or not.You can call them for parts also.
p.s. keep using the worm gear clamp on the oil filter.
I must of missed the brake switch issue. What does pinching the connectors fix?
Jim
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The sidestand switch -relays have been known to sometimes bugger up, causing a no start problem. might be worth checking out. there is a few posts on this subject you might want to check out. I kind of doubt the ecu has anything to do with it, regards, doug.
Thanks Doug. The fact that Im not getting any kind of noise when I engage the "kill switch" suggests that its probably the fuel pump or something electric thats not letting the fuel pump engage. I have it at the dealer and hope to be back on the road soon.
Thanks,
Jim
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Now that I appear to have all the bugs worked out of my V11 Sport my Cal Spec left me stranded todayI replaced the mufflers this morning on my '02 Special Sport. Went from pretty free flowing mufflers I got from Monaco's (nice sound but a bit too loud) to the Minstrals. When for a short ride to hear how they sounded and the bike died on me after about 2 miles (if even that). When I tried to restart it I didnt get any "whoosh" noise from the fuel pump. I checked all the fuses (they were fine) and moved the relays around and still nothing. Im thinking that the fuel pump went - unless it has something to do with the new mufflers. I did not change the map on my PowerCommander. Is it possible that the Power Commander or the Guzzi computer noticed the difference in air/fuel and shut the bike down? Is there anyway to reset the computer if this is the case? How do I check the fuel pump to see if that might be the problem. I'd like to check these out before I drag it three hours across the state to Jason. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
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My '00 has suddenly started to sputter and choke on my ride home today. Nothing horrible. It did this a bit last year and then it went away. This was the first hot day I had it out this year but I dont know if heat has anything to do with it. It hiccups around 4k and 3k RPM on decelleration. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jim
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A few nights ago I took my 2000 V11 Sport out for a ride and noticed that my tach quit working. I thought that maybe it was a blown fuse. Checked the fuse and it was OK but noticed that the fuse also runs the headlight and horn. These were not working either. A few miles down the road the tach started to work and I check that both headlights and horn work. This on again/off again thing happened all morning long. I noticed that when I came to a stop the tach, etc... would not work and then would eventually come on. I also noticed that it would work if I downshifted at a high RPM.
Im not an electrical person at all but if the fuse was bad wouldnt the tach/lights/horn not work at all? Would a flakey relay cause this. I installed GEI's last year that I purchased from Dan that fixed a starting issue. Would a realy go bad that quickly. In addition, I installed a new battery a couple of weeks ago before this problem started but it has been running well since. Any suggestions on where to start looking. The bike rides fine with the exception of this problem.
Thanks,
Jim in Dublin, OH
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Anyone read the book "Dune" by Frank Herbert? This reminds me of the self-recycling desert suits.
In other words: drink-your-own-pee-suits. Talk about fetishes...
Yes - loved it.
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Will you put the PC545MJ (Metal jacket) or not?
I just got the battery and its not the meytal jacket version. It does face the rear and it does use a different terminal connector that the YUSA. No big deal as my new battery included the proper bolts. Bike started right up and has been running fine. It does seem to start faster than the YUSA.
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On its side with the terminals facing forward, just like the factory battery shown in your owners manual.
Thanks!!!!!
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My old battery died over the winter and will get a Odyssey PC545 in my V11 Sport. I have a YUSA but seemed to recall that it was installed differently than the stock battery that came with the bike. Does the 545 install standing up or laying on its side?
Thanks,
Jim
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FYI-
Wendy's International is holding a show in Dublin, OH on Sept 2. http://www.evansauto.com/ig2006.htm
Thanks,
Jim
FS - 2002 Moto Guzzi Cal Special Sport
in Personal Ads
Posted
This bike is in excellent condition. 12k miles, dealer serviced, garage kept. This Black & Red bike includes: Mistral Classic Mufflers, Chrome Side Stand, FBF H-Pipe, Power Commander, Wilber's Shocks & Springs, Classic Windshield, Square Type Front Engine Guards, Rear Rack w/Grab Handles, Fr & Rr Leather Mud Flaps (trimmed in red). Always taken care of and serviced on time. Need more room in the garage. Located in Columbus, OH (Dublin, OH). Please email me at jsciullo@columbus.rr.com.